Do i need a chip
- Thread starter tkareno
- Start date
joel5.0
Member
no chip,i've been rounds with people on here about this and have been there done that . On the OBD1 computers all a chip will do is waste money. Timming light and adjustable fuel pressure regulator amd gauge will save you hundreds and work just as good. UNLESS YOU GO TO A POWER ADDER. then you can get a flip switch, with allows you to program a "street" tune then flip the switch for boost or nitrious. and then all it really does is work the timming. The chip will do very little on drivability. Heres my experience with them. The kid that had my car complained about drivibilty so he bought a SCT chip. with install price of chip dyno tune he paid about $700.00. Before the chip and tune and with the 19# injectors with matching MAF the car at the wheels made 301/338. after the tuner tuned it the best he could get out of it was 283/310 (these numbers arent exact but close) so overall he lost about 20HP and 30TQ. the car was dynoed at the same shop and the same dyno and before and after the chip the A/F was right where it was suppose to be. I bought the car from the kid removed the ship and NO change at all! peace
john
john
john,
Where in "Worshington" are you? pm if you like...
What shop did the tuning?
If a dyno shop was not able to match an 'untuned' dyno number, then (I would guess...) one of 2 things...
1. they tuned for 'track time', which is not the same as tuning for dyno numbers. I doubt this scenario if the car was not tuned at the track though...
2. the tuner intentionally burned a more conservative tune for liability reasons.
I would *guess* #2... but I am curious...
jason
Where in "Worshington" are you? pm if you like...
What shop did the tuning?
If a dyno shop was not able to match an 'untuned' dyno number, then (I would guess...) one of 2 things...
1. they tuned for 'track time', which is not the same as tuning for dyno numbers. I doubt this scenario if the car was not tuned at the track though...
2. the tuner intentionally burned a more conservative tune for liability reasons.
I would *guess* #2... but I am curious...
jason
That's even worse than unplugging the EGR and leaving it all umplugged. Now the computer will think it's functional and pull timing and fuel at part throttgle settings and run lean.
Personally, i don't see why people remove the EGR. Whoever said it robs HP is just spilling a bunch of baloney. It only works at part throttle and does help slightly with fuel economy. The minute you whack the throttle it shuts off.
I've seen more problems associated with the removing the EGR and tripping the light than leaving it be. I'm not entirely convinced that when the light trips the computer completely shuts off the EGR as i usually see guys having lean or backfiring probs with a disabled EGR as well as other drivability probs that were solved by repairing the EGR system.
I also think custom chips are the way to go. Everytime i've gone with friends and put an SCT chip on their car and they've been dyno tuned they have gained power and smoothed out the curve and corrected minor tune problems. I've seen weird things before the custom tune and they were all tuned out. I will be putting an SCT chip on my car and having a custom tune done.
joel5.0
Member
The ECM doesn't pull timing, it adds spark advance based on the opening rate of the EGR valve as read by the EVP sensor. If the system detects an EGR failure, it automatically shuts its function down, and the EGR spark adder function is not used. That is normal Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) strategy when the EGR fails. Again, the light doesn't have to trip, if the system doesn't "see" the EVP voltage change when it activates the EVR solenoid, it logs code 33 (EGR not opening) and the EGR spark adder function is shutdown. JIC, so you believe that is the case, here is the single sentence section of the GUFB strategy that explains it + the FMEM strategies/sensor failure.......
I'm in vancouver wa, i'm thinking as you said in #2 the shop did a conservative tune and for street ability. I rode in the car and it seemed to be drivable before the tune so i have no clue if he was talked into the chip? or if the car got worst for some reason and thats why he got the chip and tune? i also dont ubderstand why he bought the 24's to replace the 19's? The H.P was only 301 so i couldnt imagine they were being pushed to maxing out? But as you say if the shop did the "conservative tune" with the chip how could the A/F be fine before when it made 301/338 and then again the A/F was fine after the tune loosing power as well? Also as i stated when i got the car i pulled the chip out (and sold it) and the car didnt really run any diffrent. peace
john
allballsmustang
Member
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