does this hp/tq to the tires look low for the combo

It's a crystal white 94 Cobra w/ 17" chrome Cobra R rims (275s on 10.5 rims in the rear, 245s on 17X9 rims in the front, Cobra R 3.5" cowl hood, I always liked the 95 Cobra Rs. My motor isn't too far off either it's a DSS 347 Pro Bullit (9:1 compression), main girdle support, windage tray, 7 quart pan, reused the GT40 heads w/ 3 angle valve job done, didn't mill them or up the valve size. Stock 1.84/1.54 valves, home gasket matched intake/exhaust runners. Stock cobra intake, bbk 1" spacer, matched the throttle body 70mm and gasket matched everything else, forged 18cc dished pistons, forged i beam rods, nodular crank, lunati cam .500 intake, .510 exhaust .050 tappet lift duration is 218/226, chromemoly pushrods and crane full roller 1.7 rockers. 70mm tb, 80mm mass air, no emissions system, MSD distro, 9mm wires, AR 94 plugs(2 steps colder), stock rails, 30 lb injectors, 255 lph intank pump, 50 gph@70psi inline pump, aeromotive regulator, shorty headers, off road h-pipe, magnaflow catback (magnapack mufflers), subframe connectors, c/c plates, drag springs front and back, lakewood driveshaft loop, upper control arms, traction action lower control arms, 5speed w/ bm pro ripper shifter, adjustable clutch, king cobra clutch kit, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears stock 28 spline axles with a girdle. Zex dry kit, purge, bottle heater, 75-125 hp shot adjustable. SCT tuned chip w/ 5 position selector. 26X11.5X15 MT ET streets on 15X7 V6 rim.

dyno'd/ 95 degrees/ Tallahassee FL
300 rwhp 346 rwtq N/A
365 rwhp 451 rwtq nitrous 125 dry shot

SGMP/ Sep 14 (nice and cool that night)
13.8@104 2.1 60' street tires
13.16@104 1.79 60' slicks
12.50@112 1.84 60' slicks/bottle

Do these numbers seem about right/high/low?? Just looking for opinions.
 
Your GT40s are probably what is restricting you on your engine build but also at the same time I would have thought that you would have gained more off the 125 shot...I would have thought something more in the 90-100 rwhp
 
Looks to be in the ballpark to me :D

As said above, heads and intake are holding you back

At 9 to 1 for squeeze ... certainly more power could be found there as well

A nice set of 1 3/4 headers would pick up the flow for sure

That cam does not have a whole lot of lift :shrug:

Grady
 
i was waiting for you to reply Grady :D, i knew the heads and intake would hold me back so i guess i can pleased for what i payed for, as for the spray how could you adjust the dry shot for more power. i called zex because my a/f was so low wondering if i could jet the fuel side leaner, he told me my tuner was responsible for leaning out my nitrous setup. had me wondering if i was tuned to run lean, what would happen if i forgot to turn on the system and i floored the pedal (instant kaboom). my tuner only took out 2 degrees of timing across the board and i'm only running 93 octane and spraying the 125. so all my times are run on BP 93 octane fuel :notnice: oh well, happy with my setup, looking forward to adding boost sometime in the future.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the cam lift at this very moment, since you can always swap to 1.7 rockers and bump it to .531/.542 as long as your springs will handle it. You definitely have a good foundation, so save up for some heads and an intake and you're golden. If you're on a budget, look around in the classifieds for some used heads. You can usually find some Twisted Wedges for under a grand, and AFR's for right around a grand.
 
I have always thought if you had a tired motor :(
and
Had future plans for a stroker :)
but
Money was tight :bang:

Doing up a stroked short block with your old stuff makes a lot of sense ;)

You just upgrade things as the money becomes available :D

Grady
 
i was waiting for you to reply Grady :D, i knew the heads and intake would hold me back so i guess i can pleased for what i payed for, as for the spray how could you adjust the dry shot for more power. i called zex because my a/f was so low wondering if i could jet the fuel side leaner, he told me my tuner was responsible for leaning out my nitrous setup. had me wondering if i was tuned to run lean, what would happen if i forgot to turn on the system and i floored the pedal (instant kaboom). my tuner only took out 2 degrees of timing across the board and i'm only running 93 octane and spraying the 125. so all my times are run on BP 93 octane fuel :notnice: oh well, happy with my setup, looking forward to adding boost sometime in the future.


im not familiar with the zex kit but i know its the same concept as my dry kit. what size jets are you running? 59 and 42? if you have a wideband you can go a little higher on the jet in the fuel tee to lean it out a bit. the dyno numbers on the bottle seem a little off. should have more power and torque. have you weighed your car? i would think you should be going faster. im at about 3400 lbs with driver and trap 114 on a 125 shot in my 302.
 
im not familiar with the zex kit but i know its the same concept as my dry kit. what size jets are you running? 59 and 42? if you have a wideband you can go a little higher on the jet in the fuel tee to lean it out a bit. the dyno numbers on the bottle seem a little off. should have more power and torque. have you weighed your car? i would think you should be going faster. im at about 3400 lbs with driver and trap 114 on a 125 shot in my 302.


i believe my jets are 52 nitrous/ 38 fuel?? i'll have to look, so the bigger the number on the jet the more it will lean it out?? i was thinking it was the opposite because on my kits instructions the biggest nitrous jet and smallest fuel jet makes up the 125 combo. i have weighed it and with half tank of gas, spare stereo removed, no gear in car, slicks on back instead of heavy chrome rims i weighed in at 3520 with driver and i'm about 180lbs.
 
trickflows and a systemax would problably put 75 or 80 horse on that combo( for future ref.) but that sounds about right that car would be real fun I bet it pulls hard

:OT: except on the street, just spins in first and even in 2nd, but i don't ride the clutch that much sooooo, it would do better if i drove it. on the dragstrip with slicks coming off the line spraying (launching around 3K) it surprised me i quickly hot lapped and came back for seconds.

don't mind granny (seems faster when you're doing it) shifting but listen for tire spin in 2nd:)
http://youtube.com/watch?v=VT4eAESk_Tw :OT:
 
i believe my jets are 52 nitrous/ 38 fuel?? i'll have to look, so the bigger the number on the jet the more it will lean it out?? i was thinking it was the opposite because on my kits instructions the biggest nitrous jet and smallest fuel jet makes up the 125 combo.


my kit came with the 59 in the fuel tee and 42 for the nitrous on the 80 shot. switching them uped it to the 125 shot. when you go down on the fuel tee jet it adds more fuel pressure so a higher jet will lean it out.
 
Those numbers are very typical for that type of combination.

The lift of your camshaft really is not important at all. So as stated, do not worry about it.

I do not think 1 3/4" will play a part in to big of power gains as compared to some 1 5/8" either. Longtubes aren't a bad way to go though.

I think many of us all respect and understand what it is like to be on a budget:nice: Too often a few think that we all have money to burn.

With a stock block and you are wanting to introduce boost, it may actually be to your interest to keep those parts on there to, in a sense, restrict power for the supercharger later.

I do believe the nitrous numbers are down, even for a dry kit. I assume your spark plugs are up to par, with the cold level range and gap.
 
Those numbers are very typical for that type of combination.

The lift of your camshaft really is not important at all. So as stated, do not worry about it.

I do not think 1 3/4" will play a part in to big of power gains as compared to some 1 5/8" either. Longtubes aren't a bad way to go though.

I think many of us all respect and understand what it is like to be on a budget:nice: Too often a few think that we all have money to burn.

With a stock block and you are wanting to introduce boost, it may actually be to your interest to keep those parts on there to, in a sense, restrict power for the supercharger later.

I do believe the nitrous numbers are down, even for a dry kit. I assume your spark plugs are up to par, with the cold level range and gap.


it's a stock block but it's a Level 20 CNC block from DSS with the main girdle and thread in freeze plugs. they rated it for 550+. my plugs are fresh and even indexed with the spacers, Autolite Racing 94 (two steps colder than stock) gapped @32.
 
it's a stock block but it's a Level 20 CNC block from DSS with the main girdle and thread in freeze plugs. they rated it for 550+. my plugs are fresh and even indexed with the spacers, Autolite Racing 94 (two steps colder than stock) gapped @32.



what kind of plug is the racing plug? i have heard of people having problems with other kinds of plugs and to stick with the copper core. im running the autolite 103 which is also 2 steps down on my gt40s.