Doing timing chain cover gasket...

[Dtowncats]

I am going to do this during the upcoming weekend. I have a few questions before I start.

Since I will be in there, how can I make sure the timing chain is in good shape?

When replacing the gaskets, do I need to use any RVT sealant at all?

And what about using thread locker or anti-seize on any of the bolts when re-assembling?

Sorry if some of these questions seem dumb. I still have a lot to learn when it comes to engines. After this project is done, my next project is the heater core. I am sure I will have a thread started about that later on next week. Thanks guys.

 

[ka0tyk]

I am going to do this during the upcoming weekend. I have a few questions before I start.

Since I will be in there, how can I make sure the timing chain is in good shape?

When replacing the gaskets, do I need to use any RVT sealant at all?

And what about using thread locker or anti-seize on any of the bolts when re-assembling?

Sorry if some of these questions seem dumb. I still have a lot to learn when it comes to engines. After this project is done, my next project is the heater core. I am sure I will have a thread started about that later on next week. Thanks guys.

if you look in a hayes or chiltons they spec the "deflection" that a good chain should have... if its over that ammount, time for a new one. how much is a new chain and gears? like $100... might as well do it if you're gonna tear into everything and plan on keepin it for a while.

i put RTV on everything... i didnt wanna chance leaks.

i used no thread locker.

also you're gonna need a harmonic balancer puller.

 

[Hoffman]

Do not use thread locker on the bolts!!! Usually they are pretty rusted and full of crap to begin with, putting thread locker on them will make it so you will definatley not get them out the next time. Also do not over tighten them as these bolts will strip easily if you get too overzealous.

 

[ss93cobra]

I'd use anti-sieze on the water pump and timing cover hardware if I were you.
Otherwise, the next time you go in there, you might wind up snapping off a stud and then the fun begins......

 

[sgarlic]

I'd replace those timing cover bolts while they're out, and use antiseize when they go back in.

 

[dwhiskie]

Since you will be in there, change the timming chain. well worth it too. I didnt when I did a new gasket and 2 months later my chain broke and when that happens you got BIG problems like I do such as bent valves and pushrods ect..so just spend the $$ and do it.

 

[Dtowncats]

Ok, I will check the chain while I am in there. So anti-seize is on my to buy list along with a gasket kit and oil dipstick tube.

How do I get the crank pulley off? When I tried turning the bolt, the crank moved along with it? What should I do? And I should put sealant on both sides of each gasket?

Thanks guys!

 

[ss93cobra]

You'll have better success at removing the damper if you have access to air tools. Remove the center bolt and use a damper puller to get it off. Yes, lightly silicone each side of the gasket.

 

[rd]

I would not use air tools on the damper, if I did not have to. With a decent puller, it should not be needed. I especially would put it back on by hand. If it won't come off any other way, go air.

Definitely clean the threads on the bolts and in the block if you can, and use anti seize on them, not threadlocker.

Plan enough time to recover if one of the long bolts breaks off on the way out.

Use a small bead of rtv at the corners of the timing cover and face of the block at the pan.

 

[ss93cobra]

Sorry, I'd meant to use it on the center bolt as you typically can't rotate the rachet fast enough to break loose the bolt. Otherwise, all you'll be doing is rotating the crankshaft. And using a pry bar to hold the damper in place is

I would not use air tools on the damper, if I did not have to. With a decent puller, it should not be needed. I especially would put it back on by hand. If it won't come off any other way, go air.

Definitely clean the threads on the bolts and in the block if you can, and use anti seize on them, not threadlocker.

Plan enough time to recover if one of the long bolts breaks off on the way out.

Use a small bead of rtv at the corners of the timing cover and face of the block at the pan.

 

[Dtowncats]

Cool guys, thanks. Now I just need to find a portable air compressor.

 

[TheUser]

You don't need an air compressor to get the balancer bolt off. I will tell you the EASIEST AND FASTEST way to get that balancer bolt off:

Take the appropriate socket (short extention may be needed) and ratchet. Find a short pipe (mine is a old cheap metal mop handle cut to about 16-18" long - works great for more torque on most bolts). Anyway, slide your pipe over the ratchet, rest the end of the pipe on the pavement and put the socket on the bolt. Then you BUMP the motor over once w/ the key. All it takes is one small bump and the bolt is loosened.

The reason this works is because the crank spins and since the pipe is against the pavement, it will not move and that loosens the bolt. I learned about it on here and have done it many times flawlessly - although it's been a while.

The only thing I can't remember is which way to put the pipe. My memory tells me to put it on the passenger side of the pavement, but I'm not 100% sure. Maybe someone else will see this and confirm the direction.

 

[Dtowncats]

You don't need an air compressor to get the balancer bolt off. I will tell you the EASIEST AND FASTEST way to get that balancer bolt off:

Take the appropriate socket (short extention may be needed) and ratchet. Find a short pipe (mine is a old cheap metal mop handle cut to about 16-18" long - works great for more torque on most bolts). Anyway, slide your pipe over the ratchet, rest the end of the pipe on the pavement and put the socket on the bolt. Then you BUMP the motor over once w/ the key. All it takes is one small bump and the bolt is loosened.

The reason this works is because the crank spins and since the pipe is against the pavement, it will not move and that loosens the bolt. I learned about it on here and have done it many times flawlessly - although it's been a while.

The only thing I can't remember is which way to put the pipe. My memory tells me to put it on the passenger side of the pavement, but I'm not 100% sure. Maybe someone else will see this and confirm the direction.

Man I don't know about that. That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Although it sounds like it would work. Would that be ok to do if there is no oil in the engine?

 

[TheUser]

I don't know if I'd do it w/ no oil in the car or not - I think I usually leave the oil in mine and change it afterwards. There's lots of other people who do the same thing - that's how I learned about it. If you want to use air tools, go ahead.

This is just a suggestion. If you don't have air tools, it might be cheaper to do it this way. I do have air tools, but I still do it this way.

If you run synthetic oil, there's still oil in the chambers anyway. I don't mean to start the car, you just turn the key for half a sec and let the motor bump over a little and let off.