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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

don't think these bolts what to come out

  • Thread starter Thread starter srtthis
  • Start date Start date Nov 29, 2010
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srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#1
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #1


driveshaft bolts FTL
 

NIKwoaC

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#2
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #2
Been there, done that. Twice. Thank God Craftsman has a no-questions-asked return policy.

You need to get a ratchet on there. Have you tried heat and/or penetrating oil?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#3
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #3
that was with a 13/16 box end for a cheater bar with WD40 and a propane torch. ended up pulling the U joint out so i can get the rear out from under the car. ordering a 12pt impact socket from mac and going to get those lil bastards off
 

NIKwoaC

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#4
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #4
Something I've discovered with stubborn bolts/nuts like that, is you can sometimes get your wrench on there and smack the other end with a hammer a few times. Works the same way an impact wrench does, it sort of "shocks" the threads into loosening. I wouldn't recommend tightening anything that way, however, haha.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#5
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #5
NikwoaC said:
Something I've discovered with stubborn bolts/nuts like that, is you can sometimes get your wrench on there and smack the other end with a hammer a few times. Works the same way an impact wrench does, it sort of "shocks" the threads into loosening. I wouldn't recommend tightening anything that way, however, haha.
Click to expand...

close but not quite...

impact driver impacts the along the center line of the bolt and hitting a wrench like that puts the stress on the outside of the bolt... you see higher stresses this way. as long as you dont strip the bolt or wrench it works close enough to get by but you can get higher torque on a bolt before breaking it off with an impact driver
 

NIKwoaC

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#6
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #6
srtthis said:
close but not quite...

impact driver impacts the along the center line of the bolt and hitting a wrench like that puts the stress on the outside of the bolt... you see higher stresses this way. as long as you dont strip the bolt or wrench it works close enough to get by but you can get higher torque on a bolt before breaking it off with an impact driver
Click to expand...

Ha, never said it works better or that it even works as well. Just a method to get by when you don't have immediate access to an impact, or when you're working in a space too small to get an impact into.
 

HotFox

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#7
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #7
My Snap-on 10 or 11mm is slightly bent at the different angle from doing that. Mostly using foot power (kicking) to brake them free. The pain is on the F150, no room for anything but a wrench.
Scott
 

1987LXragtop

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#8
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #8
the torch is your friend
 

jrichker

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#9
  • Nov 29, 2010
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You wonder where the phrase foot/pounds of torque originated from? It's from using your foot on the wrench trying to loosen the drive shaft bolts.

I always use my foot to tighten or loosen the drive shaft bolts. It carries all 200 pounds of me around, so it should be strong enough to break loose almost any bolt.
 

Jaswir

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#10
  • Nov 29, 2010
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i recently had the same problem when doing my t5 swap.. i snaped 2 wrenches with a 2 foot breaker bar.

so how i got em off i bought a 12 pt socket instead of a wrench and sat my propane torch right on the bolt the hole time with a breaker bar and finally came loose! all 4 bolts were that tight!
 

wythors

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#11
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #11
Air tools are our friends.
 

Onefine88

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#12
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #12
I have used the wrench/hammer method as well with good results more than once on those stubborn DS bolts.

Worked for me.
 

NIKwoaC

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#13
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I don't kick or yank or shove anything while I'm under a car that's on jack stands. A college buddy of mine died when his Termi tipped off the jack stands and crushed him. I've been much more cautious since.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#14
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #14
NikwoaC said:
I don't kick or yank or shove anything while I'm under a car that's on jack stands. A college buddy of mine died when his Termi tipped off the jack stands and crushed him. I've been much more cautious since.
Click to expand...

yea as sturdy as my car was when i put it up there its DEF not any more. all the weight on the rear is now on the ground with the rear and everything out of it. im not yanking shoving or kicking **** under that thing... gimme a impact socket and ill let the impact beat it out
 

1987LXragtop

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#15
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #15
NikwoaC said:
I don't kick or yank or shove anything while I'm under a car that's on jack stands. A college buddy of mine died when his Termi tipped off the jack stands and crushed him. I've been much more cautious since.
Click to expand...

I think about stuff like that everytime I crawl under the car.
 

SVT32VDOHC

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#16
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #16
Torches are your friend, just don't melt the pinion seal, which might happen. Loc-tite those bolts back in, cause they will loosen up.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#17
  • Nov 30, 2010
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SVT32VDOHC said:
Torches are your friend, just don't melt the pinion seal, which might happen. Loc-tite those bolts back in, cause they will loosen up.
Click to expand...


screw that pinion seal... its leaking anyway which is why im pulling the rear out. not just leaving it on the ground while the guy welds my torque boxes
 

SVT32VDOHC

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#18
  • Nov 30, 2010
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yeah, my pinion seal leaked every spring on my 96 Cobra from sitting all winter. So annoying having to replace it every frickin year.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#19
  • Nov 30, 2010
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yea if it becomes an issue of doing it every year i may have to let it idle in gear every few weeks or something over the winter
 

SVT32VDOHC

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#20
  • Nov 30, 2010
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srtthis said:
yea if it becomes an issue of doing it every year i may have to let it idle in gear every few weeks or something over the winter
Click to expand...

The rear end dope won't get hot unless you drive it.
 
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