Dual fan wiring/alt

Do the fans ever reach full speed? What happens if you just power up one fan? Does it still spark? You might need to use a relay for each fan or use a heavier duty relay (i.e. a 75 amp relay) for the application. The start-up draw can play games with fan circuits (those specs listed sound like steady-state specs).

Good luck and bump for you.

I agree with Hissin. I had to run a 70A relay to my single taurus fan. When the fan starts to turn, it can pull as much as 100A (IIRC) momentarily and then amperage draw decreases as the fans get up to speed.
The good ole DC controller unit fixed all of that though.......

DCC Controller

whtnotch said:

Link me to that DCC controller I know its someone one the stangnet with it right?I need a controller to run both 2x11amp fans.I hate to have to buy more stuff now i just put down alot on that "Painless bullshi*".Im going back to my buddys house to trouble shoot when I get back I will see if I can get one fan rolling on the 30 amp setup.my alternator is fried tho too.??it wasn't charging at all.I know the wiring on that has to be fine since I did the wiring over the phone hah.

keep em coming please. and please some set me up with that Dcc controler? How much do they run$?

Click to expand...

I'm running their FK-35 controller on my dual SPAL fan setup.

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

Delta control fan problems

Have problems with Delta Control module. Trying to run double (Chrysler) fan set up. Wires coming from fan are 2 black (power), green (ground) and one yellow (A/C ?). Have no A/C so I did not hook up the wiring to anything. I wired blue off of controller to ingnition source, power to both black fan wires & fan ground to negative baterry terminal. Thermostat wire mnted on rad & plugged into controler. Fan fails to turn on when vehicle is brought up to 180 degrees & over. Fans do work when jumped straight to battery. Does anyone have any ideas?

See item #2...

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to
computers.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is
the power ground for the starter & alternator.

2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the
intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or
loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor
clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs
a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis
ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side
with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & alternator

Picture courtesy timewarped1972


3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that
comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to
it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid
fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long
by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire. You'll find it up next to
the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness


4.) All the sensors have a common separate ground. This
includes the TPS, ACT, EGE, BAP, & VSS sensors.

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground)
coming from the computer. This is different and separate from
the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal
on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out
under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on
back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around
the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module
ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and
runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.

8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from
the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it
controls internally.

See Automotive Test Tools
for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds

Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver.
If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.

The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot
and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops
from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop
between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively
reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.

eckenber said:

Have problems with Delta Control module. Trying to run double (Chrysler) fan set up. Wires coming from fan are 2 black (power), green (ground) and one yellow (A/C ?). Have no A/C so I did not hook up the wiring to anything. I wired blue off of controller to ingnition source, power to both black fan wires & fan ground to negative baterry terminal. Thermostat wire mnted on rad & plugged into controler. Fan fails to turn on when vehicle is brought up to 180 degrees & over. Fans do work when jumped straight to battery. Does anyone have any ideas?

Click to expand...

Assuming all the wiring is correct: The small motors used in dual fans (i.e. Intrepid fans) can sometimes present a couple of problems. The first is that they have a huge start-up draw and the second is that the differing styles of motors (pancake and cannister, for example) can have different draws per time. The result is that the controller can see the huge, inconsistant start-up draw as a short and the controller shuts down.

Consult with Brian and if this is deemed to be the case, a filter from him is a solution.

Good luck.