dyno results

Deths91Gt

Founding Member
Sep 30, 1998
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This was just a baseline to see what it makes before i add some more parts.
To recap its a new 302 with stock GT-40 iron heads and E-cam. (speed density)Stock everything except for longtubes and H-pipe and flowmasters. It only made 205 hp and 272 Ft. lbs of torque. I tried playing with the timing but it liked 12 degrees best. Is that about right or is this thing kinda lame?? The car runs great but just didnt make more then that on the dyno? I was figuring 200-210 anyways. The power really drops off fast with the stock intake at 4-5K rpm's. What do u guys think the power would be with a Cobra intake or a Performer??
Thanks.
 
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staticc said:
for the later years with mass air i believe. i forget where it changes from 200 to 225/300

starting 1989 was mass air, and yes that sounds right for speed density...speed density = gay

the 225/300 you are talking about is BHP (brake horse power) or basically fly wheel, so u should expect at least 5-10% drop off in that. so if i had a 225/300, the dyno would show around 205-210HP and 275-285 TRQ, that is all stock of course, i have seen some stock 5.0's with advanced timing and a K&N air filter do 222HP on dyno bone stock.... so whatever.
 
custom89stang said:
starting 1989 was mass air, and yes that sounds right for speed density...speed density = gay

the 225/300 you are talking about is BHP (brake horse power) or basically fly wheel, so u should expect at least 5-10% drop off in that. so if i had a 225/300, the dyno would show around 205-210HP and 275-285 TRQ, that is all stock of course, i have seen some stock 5.0's with advanced timing and a K&N air filter do 222HP on dyno bone stock.... so whatever.

Man 222hp with a stock motor and just timing and a K&N--thats pretty damn good. With a 18 % correction for drivetrain loss thats like 262 HP. Go figure.
 
custom89stang said:
That was ONE TIME. LOL. Drivetrain is not 18% man. I sware to god. Unless its AOD, then it might be. But Manual WC T-5's hold it pretty good.

Im not knocking you--i would love to have 262 at the crank right now. My cars only at 205rwhp so i have to figure out whats next--the stock intake is the first to go.
 
Deths91Gt said:
Im not knocking you--i would love to have 262 at the crank right now. My cars only at 205rwhp so i have to figure out whats next--the stock intake is the first to go.

no, not if you dont have other stuff. first things you should do

Cold air/ or K&N
Full exhaust, i'm talking headers,Xpipe or Hpipe, Cat-backs

that will net you 20-25 if we are being generous.

Then gears. 3.73/4.10

But if you're just looking for numbers, then you throw away that trashy intake
 
custom89stang said:
no, not if you dont have other stuff. first things you should do

Cold air/ or K&N
Full exhaust, i'm talking headers,Xpipe or Hpipe, Cat-backs

that will net you 20-25 if we are being generous.

Then gears. 3.73/4.10

But if you're just looking for numbers, then you throw away that trashy intake

custom read my sig for mods--then you'll see why my results were low.
 
custom89stang said:
starting 1989 was mass air, and yes that sounds right for speed density...speed density = gay

Your speaking from ignorance here, so don't talk about what you don't have experience with. There are a TON of guys running SD with many mods, you just have to know how to put the combo together - especially the cam.

Deths91GT - your numbers are lower than they might be. Your intake and cam are not well matched. The E likes rpm and the stock intake chokes off above about 4,500 rpm. Port the lower stock intake or go to a Cobra/Explorer intake which won't need porting with those heads. Look at the dyno numbers and mods in my signature. 219RWHP/290RWTQ with only the ported lower, timing, K&N and 2.5" catbacks. The E cam and SD may be a problem too. Some guys have made it work and others have had problems - that is hit-or-miss. How is your idle and vacuum levels? SD relys heavily on good vacuum to get the fuel curve right. Paste the link in my signature for more info on the stock intake system.
 
Mike K - you may want to clarify your first post. You ABSOLUTELY want the coldest intake air you can get - it's thermodynamic; colder intake air = more power to the tune of 1/2%-1% increase in power for every 10F decrease in intake air temperature. It's just that the cold air intake systems don't offer any siginificant performance improvement over the stock cold air intake box with a good filter and the silencer removed on mildly modified engines.
 
I was running 13°. That run is also SAE corrected, had I asked for the "STD" calibration, it would have been a few HP higher. SAE has two standards that correct to two different temp standards.