No I didn't Mike. The dyno operator wouldn't let me touch the car - I wanted to adjust FP and then timing. He said that was dyno tuning and that cost $200/hr. He is not that customer friendly. I paid $75 for 3 pulls but stopped him at two as there was no sense in going further - one graph overlaid the other perfectly despite the higher temp of the second pull.
I know the feeling Tom - all 3 of my pulls were within 1HP and 1 ft-lb of each other - looked like one line. Guess my intake air insulation techniques are working.
Deths91GT- I think your car would pick up power if you converted to mass air. An intake swap, or atleast port the lower would help your car make power past 4-5k.
You should switch to mass air. I ran gt40-p's, e-303, STOCK intake, shorty headers, off-road H, and pro-M 75mm mass air conversion kit in my '87 and it had to make way more than 200rwhp because I ran consistent 13.02@103.4 and the only big differance is you don't have mass air.
Hey thanks for the help guys--i didnt use the wideband the dyno shop had so i really dont know if it was rich or lean? but i can tell you that the first pull the car wasnt fully warmed up only made a Paltry 170 Hp with 16 degrees of timing so i lowered it to 12 and gain 35 Hp to get the 205. But maybe thats more cause it was warmed up then the timing? I am going to try this again with a adj regulator to see if i can play with the fuel and timing. The idle is not bad with the E cam and the SD. i am planning on converting to MA but i just want to see what i can make with SD and different levels of modifications. I will be ditching the stock intake after Christmas. My goal now is to get close to 250 RWHP as possible before i try using my nitrous kit.