I'd hate to buy and have negative results. Just curious, what do you do for a living? Mechanic I assume. Do you have a shop, work at a shop? Do you do mostly performance related stuff or general maintenance?Want to really find the answer to your question?
If yes, first fix all the codes the computer spits out unless they refer to equipment not installed on the car.
Then....
Get one of your buddies to ride along with you. Find a level stretch of road where you can do some testing. Watch for the wind speed and direction, it can have a definite impact on your test results.
Don't choose a speed range that will make you shift gears, the shift quality & speed will affect your results. Use 2nd or 3rd gear and do a run from 2000 RPM to 5800 RPM. Call out the RPM as it increases and have your buddy record it and the elapsed time. If you have one of those cheap digital watches like I do, a stop watch is built in.
Put the part on, wither it is a 65 MM TB, or whatever and then dump the codes. Fix all the codes unless they refer to equipment not installed on the car.
Then...
Get one of your buddies to ride along with you. Find a level stretch of road where you can do some testing. Watch for the wind speed and direction, it can have a definite impact on your test results.
Don't choose a speed range that will make you shift gears, the shift quality & speed will affect your results. Use 2nd or 3rd gear and do a run from 2000 RPM to 5800 RPM. Call out the RPM as it increases and have your buddy record it and the elapsed time. If you have one of those cheap digital watches like I do, a stop watch is built in.
Compare the results and you'll have a real world answer of what it does for YOUR car...
This isn't easy or real cheap, but it is very accurate if you are careful of things like air temp, wind direction and speed and a using flat stretch of road. A little disciple in how you do the tests can be very rewarding.
I'm a vet... Yeah there's a price for everything nothing's free in life but I wouldn't pay for a service and not get service. I wouldn't buy "male enhancement" pills or any other placebo type thing. So thus being said your "buy it and try it" advice is a moot point and just a plain bad reply. So do you know if its worth 200+ dollars? I'm guessing no since most bolt on stuff isn't. But hey you could buy one and try it and report your findings. Are you sure you don't have a check list sticky for this?There is a cost for everything in the Mustang hobby. You just have to decide if you want to pony up and pay it...
I am a computer/software tech for the US Dept. of Veterans Affairs, and I don't fix cars for a living. I have been fixing complex electrical, electronic and mechanical systems for over 48 years. That includes everything from airplanes to automobiles to electrical/electronic equipment and computers. I do have a 2 year degree in electronics which is what got me into the computer service field That's where the electrical/electronics expertise comes from. That's my day job...
My night job is entirely different: I am a Gospel preacher currently serving the senior saints in nursing & rehab centers.
I'm a vet... Yeah there's a price for everything nothing's free in life but I wouldn't pay for a service and not get service. I wouldn't buy "male enhancement" pills or any other placebo type thing. So thus being said your "buy it and try it" advice is a moot point and just a plain bad reply. So do you know if its worth 200+ dollars? I'm guessing no since most bolt on stuff isn't. But hey you could buy one and try it and report your findings. Are you sure you don't have a check list sticky for this?
ThanksI have a 65 MM TB sitting in my garage, but it is part of a Explorer intake that I plan to put on someday. At this time, if I wanted to do the 65 MM TB, I'd do the Explorer intake at the same time. So I guess you won't get a simple yes or no answer from me on this question. I do know that the combination is worth 12-20 flywheel HP on a stock engine.
Ok thanks. I have a modest lil build. Fresh e7's w beehive springs and .512 lift cam, cai for a lil underhood bling, and a ported lower intake. Stock maf n tb.When I converted to MAS I also changed to a 70mm tb and intake manifold. I also cleaned up the e7 heads a little and added an e303 cam. So the tb alone is hard to say but my mods dropped .5-.6 at the strip and noticeable butt dyno difference.
I prob wont get a tb but I'm bored i guess and wanna tinker w er but can't afford heads and I don't really wanna play the bolt on game. A few thousand dollars spread out amongst several parts to knock off a tenth or two. It just sucks sometimes not having anything to mess with. I guess I'll stay where I am, slow until one day maybe just one day I can get some heads.When I converted to MAS I also changed to a 70mm tb and intake manifold. I also cleaned up the e7 heads a little and added an e303 cam. So the tb alone is hard to say but my mods dropped .5-.6 at the strip and noticeable butt dyno difference.
I think a bigger tb will help. Def won't hurt ya. Bump timing,tb,maf,etc. maybe a chip. With those mods it should run pretty solid low 14 high 13s with street radials. My heads aren't helping much. I run 13.60s without the bottle and some semi sticky tires.I prob wont get a tb but I'm bored i guess and wanna tinker w er but can't afford heads and I don't really wanna play the bolt on game. A few thousand dollars spread out amongst several parts to knock off a tenth or two. It just sucks sometimes not having anything to mess with. I guess I'll stay where I am, slow until one day maybe just one day I can get some heads.
Oh and I have an sct chip, had to get it when the cam was installed. I have nitto nt555I think a bigger tb will help. Def won't hurt ya. Bump timing,tb,maf,etc. maybe a chip. With those mods it should run pretty solid low 14 high 13s with street radials. My heads aren't helping much. I run 13.60s without the bottle and some semi sticky tires.
Same situation here.. Gotta find the time to install the whole intake with the 65mm exploder tbI have a 65 MM TB sitting in my garage, but it is part of a Explorer intake that I plan to put on someday. At this time, if I wanted to do the 65 MM TB, I'd do the Explorer intake at the same time. So I guess you won't get a simple yes or no answer from me on this question. I do know that the combination is worth 12-20 flywheel HP on a stock engine.
Under drive pulleys are good for a tenth or two.. Even without changing alt pulleyI prob wont get a tb but I'm bored i guess and wanna tinker w er but can't afford heads and I don't really wanna play the bolt on game. A few thousand dollars spread out amongst several parts to knock off a tenth or two. It just sucks sometimes not having anything to mess with. I guess I'll stay where I am, slow until one day maybe just one day I can get some heads.
I've got em on my '90, they came w em so I can't say a before and after but not too impressedUnder drive pulleys are good for a tenth or two.. Even without changing alt pulley
Not a bad ideaIf you are really on the fence about a 65mm TB, but an explorer unit and modify it to work on a mustang. You'll have to modify your throttle cable setup to work with a fox boys throttle body, but common mod with 94-95
You can pick up an explorer intake setup, lower, upper, TB and injectors for maybe $100 these days. Plenty of guys have installed them on 94-95. It's even easier because the EGR is external so any year explorer would be ideal.
Sell your ported stock lower intake and this could be a near free mod
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