John - it may be easier to put smaller sway bars, brakes, wheels and tires on the car so it won't corner/stop quite so hard - that ought to keep the fan out of the fins.
Laughing with you bud....
I had the same dilemma - I am the proud owner of no less than 3 $59 Hotronics temp. switches (195-180, 210-195, 220-205), 3 t'stats (170, 180, 192) and multiple relays, along with a double 40A fused power distribution block from my local stereo store, having both my radiator and my t'stat housing tapped for the temp switches -- all as I tried to get twin fans to work independantly at different temps in some kind of reasonable fashion. I was able to get a system that worked pretty well in the summer (170F based), and another that worked well in the winter (192F based), but never one I was happy with all the time. Not to mention the "hit" the charging system took with the a/c on with both fans hit at the same time. You could see the voltmeter take a big swing to the left.
I just laugh at myself now when I see how seamlessly the DC controller works. Not only is the control much better (on mine within 2 or 3 degrees), the fans don't work near as hard. They ease on as the current ramps up, so I don't have the short-term 80-90A hitting the system with both fans coming on full. In fact, I went back and installled the indicator light Brian sells because I couldn't even tell they were coming on at all so smooth and quiet is the operation. Now I'm mesmerized watching the light change colors from green to yellow to orange to red as the fans speed up and down keeping the engine cool. Pretty amazing stuff. And, it saves wear and tear on both alternator and the fan motors. It really is a better mousetrap with no downside.
Don't stay attached to your equipment for too long - even if you get the bugs worked out, the switches/relays can't even come close to working as well. Bite the bullet. Me - I'm selling my temp switches, and am gonna use my relays/fused distribution power block to power up my headlights more directly off the alternator output. My lights run through the ignition switch and headlight switch before hitting the relays. I'm gonna use the voltage off the current light plug to 'trigger' the relay - and use short runs of 12 gauge wire from the switched relay output to power up the lights. I can pick up somewhere around 14% more voltage at the bulb which translates to about 30% more light on the road. Now that's a great application for relays!
. What is the link to the install?
