electric fan with coolant sensor ???

Don't use a deadhead Tee for two temp senders, switches or sensors. The result is stagnant coolant that doesn't reflect the actual temp. You want each unit to be in the flow of coolant.

AZ sells a t-stat housing with a 3/8" NPT plug. Ten bucks.

Oh, you can put the switch any place you like (a rubber line, etc). You would just solder a ground wire to the sender body and attach it to a clean ground location.

I would not.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or electric fan thermo switch: This will allow you to keep the stock gauge for looks. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.



Keep in mind that the capillary tube on mechanical temp gauges cannot be cut, shorted severely kinked or damaged in any way. It is one piece from the gauge to the temp bulb that goes in the engine coolant.

You main challenge will be getting the wiring or capillary tube through the firewall. Do not use the steering column exit path for any wiring or gauge plumbing. Make sure you seal any hole you drill in the firewall with high temp red silicone sealer.

Why would you put a temp switch in the middle of a hose when a stock 5.0 thermostat housing has a boos cast in it that can be easily drilled and tapped for a switch and that is the optimum place for a switch?

DonDDR said:

Why would you put a temp switch in the middle of a hose when a stock 5.0 thermostat housing has a boos cast in it that can be easily drilled and tapped for a switch and that is the optimum place for a switch?

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The boss cast into the thermostat housing places the temp switch on the radiator side of the thermostat.
If you put the switch in the thermostat housing, it only shows the correct temperature once the thermostat opens up.

The best place is in the same coolant flow path as the ECT. The computer uses the ECT to tell it what then engine's coolant temperature is.
The drawing I posted shows how to put the thermostat switch in the ECT coolant path.

jrichker said:

The boss cast into the thermostat housing places the temp switch on the radiator side of the thermostat.
If you put the switch in the thermostat housing, it only shows the correct temperature once the thermostat opens up.

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I don't see a problem with that - you don't need a fan until the water is up to temp anyway.

Gearbanger 101 said:

I wouldn’t. The problem with putting it in the lower radiator hose, is that you're getting a far lower temperature reading than what’s actually exiting the engine since the coolant will have travelled through the radiator before reaching the sensor. Your fans might never come on as a result. You want it as close to the thermostat as possible to get the most accurate reading.

Does your thermostat housing not have an area suitiable for drilling and tapping the sensor?

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Yes, but if the coolant temperature exiting the radiator is below the temp that your fan is set to turn on, there is no need for the fan to kick on. It's only when the radiator is not able to cool the car when you need a fan (idling, stop and go trafiic, etc.). That's why DCC's are supposed to have their sensors put in a location toward the bottom of your Mustang radiator, when the coolant is flowing back into the engine.

Hello,

i use a sensor adapter like this one.











Markus

Markus, that looks like a good solution to me. Where did you get it and how much did it cost? What's the part # and price for the temp sensor/switch?