Electric or Standard water pump

68EFIvert · Sep 27, 2009

I am in the process of building a new 331 for my car. I will continue to use my blower on the car so I need a good cooling system. I am currently running a 190 degree t-stat and notice the car runs between 190-210 depending on outside temp. I was wondering is you get any better cooling with an electric water pump or if it would be a waste of money. I will change the t-stat to a 180 degree unit. I have a northern Aluminum radiator with a 3000 cfm Zirgo fan with my current setup.

Thanks for the input guys!

2+2GT · Sep 27, 2009

Neither the cooler 'stat or electric pump will make up for an inadequate radiator. Make sure that's big enough, and that whatever fan you are using uses the whole radiator, with a full-size shroud. I have seen small electric fans pasted in the middle of big radiators. The only part cooling when the car is moving slowly is the little center, exactly the opposite of what the cooling system needs.

Sicarius428 · Sep 28, 2009

Is it overheating at a stop or while you are driving. If at a stop, your fan isn't pulling enough air. If while driving, your radiator is not good enough. Waterpump may be the solution if you are running underdrive pullies. It certainly cannot hurt and definately go to a 180 tstat. 190s were used for emissions purposes...
Kevin

blown65 · Sep 28, 2009

You may benefit if your overheating is at low rpm speeds. The electric water pump will deliver the same volume of water no matter engine speed vs mechanical will vary. Having the alum radiator with a good electric fan should work well.

Mine is electric with a 2100 cfm fan and alum radiator. 180-190 is about all I can get it to even on 100 degree days here. My old blower motor however was really tough to keep cool, but a lot of that was because a 6-71 blower creates quite a bit of engine heat. I'm assuming you have a centrifugal type supercharger?

Forgot to mention, my electric wp is the Meziere 55gpm model. I've had it a good 5 or 6 yrs. (maybe longer, been quite a while though) Has worked flawless.

Another nice benefit of all electric, is the ability to cool down when you want. At the drags I can go to the starting line the same every time. For me thats about 100-120 degrees at the burnout box.

68EFIvert · Sep 29, 2009

I am running a Vortech supercharger on my car. I think I will change the t-stat first then look at the problem. When the car gets hot it is usually while in traffic. It will cool right down when I get to highway speeds. I have as much fan as I can fit on the radiator. I don't have the space to put on a shroud due to clearance problems with the fan and blower belt/water pump. I may have enough space to put a radiator that is 2-3" wider. Getting a new radiator or water pump would run me about the same money.

70vert · Sep 29, 2009

I'll let you know how my 30" Northern radiator and flex-a-lite works . . .

68EFI,
What's up, older brother? (check our builds and R&P, there are some similarities) There's some uncertainty as to whether my 30" rad will fit, but it's just barely enough for the low-profile flex-a-lite 210 fan to have a full seal against the full width of the core. I can show you pics if you want. I'm getting some feedback over on vintage-mustang that that rad doesn't sit between the frame rails and I might have hood clearance issues so it looks like I may have not done enough measuring, but I think I can make it work.

If you want, I can give you some pictures of how the dual low-profile fan lays against the 30" wide radiator. It's only 2,500CFM but it's a full seal and full shroud around the core.

See my thread about the summit mounts on here (where nobody replied, lol) or on vintage-mustang.com. (multiple replies)

iskwezm · Sep 29, 2009

I have been through all areas of the cooling system from "expert" advice on the forums. I have the 55 GPH from Meziere and now my car will idle at about 170* and run about 185-195. It does build heat for some reasin on the freeway though. The 35 GPH pump was worthless to me and the price difference is about 30 bucks??I dont run a t-stat and have Summit radiator and taurus fan.

68EFIvert · Sep 29, 2009

Thanks for the input fellas!

rbohm · Sep 29, 2009

one thing, if you use an electric water pump, you cannot use a thermostat.

68EFIvert · Sep 29, 2009

I assume the heater will still be functional. Does anyone have a picture of an install of a 55 gpm unit?

blown65 · Sep 29, 2009

rbohm said:
one thing, if you use an electric water pump, you cannot use a thermostat.

I did for 3 yrs with no issues on mine.

Flag Missed · Sep 30, 2009

rbohm said:
one thing, if you use an electric water pump, you cannot use a thermostat.

Why not?

rbohm · Sep 30, 2009

most electric water pumps have no provision for a coolant bypass, and thus wont circulate any coolant until the thermostat opens.

68EFIvert · Oct 2, 2009

Well I just purchased a 55 gpm Meziere unit. I call them and they said that you can run the heater with that unit and he said that I should run a thermostat with the setup. He did say that I should drill a couple holes in the thermostat to help with water circulation until it reaches operating temperature.

10secgoal · Oct 3, 2009

Fwiw, tried zirgo fans,......no likey. We buy up OEM fans from junk yards.

iskwezm · Oct 4, 2009

68EFIvert said:
I assume the heater will still be functional. Does anyone have a picture of an install of a 55 gpm unit?

This is all i have , but its also shorter by about 1/4" which was perfect for me.
View attachment 243541

68EFIvert · Oct 4, 2009

Thanks for the picture. It looks like you have the exact same pump I just purchased.

jbuening · Oct 6, 2009

70vert said:
68EFI,
What's up, older brother? (check our builds and R&P, there are some similarities) There's some uncertainty as to whether my 30" rad will fit, but it's just barely enough for the low-profile flex-a-lite 210 fan to have a full seal against the full width of the core. I can show you pics if you want. I'm getting some feedback over on vintage-mustang that that rad doesn't sit between the frame rails and I might have hood clearance issues so it looks like I may have not done enough measuring, but I think I can make it work.

If you want, I can give you some pictures of how the dual low-profile fan lays against the 30" wide radiator. It's only 2,500CFM but it's a full seal and full shroud around the core.

See my thread about the summit mounts on here (where nobody replied, lol) or on vintage-mustang.com. (multiple replies)

I was helping over on the VMF. I just measured my front frame rails face to face and it's 27.75" on my 70 mach. If your radiator is installed on top of your frame rails, the max you can likely go is 18.25 before the radiator cap hits. That is the measurement to the top of my radiator cap cover (I have a billet mustang cover over the radiator cap and it barely rubs the hood). FYI

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