Energizer bunny...er I mean Cam

[jlangholzj]

Well the past few days I've been covered with grease tearing into my car. I got the cam day before x-mas, talk about timing!

so here are some pictures of my progress. this is before tonights episode. that darned starter gave me trouble..oh well. tonight I was able to get the oil pan and the pump off. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the intake and raker arms etc. off and maybee get the cam out. I'll probally wat till the next day to drop the new one in. Hopefully by the weekend I'll fire it!! oh well

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[D.Hearne]

Why are you removing the oilpan and pump ?

 

[jlangholzj]

?

b/c to my knowledge I will need to take the dist. out the pull the cam, and once I put the new cam in and drop the dist. back in, the oil pump will need to be hooked back up again.

this is what the idiot that first had my car failed to do, and COMPLETELY seized up a brand new motor.

 

[D.Hearne]

You don't need to pull the pan or pump to do a cam swap. There's a distributor drive shaft between the pump and distributor that should stay in place when you pull the distributor.

 

[jlangholzj]

i just figured that out too. oh well, I was folowing my shop manual, and thats what it said to do, but oh well.

 

[Fast63]

what shop manual is it? no good shop manual should ever tell you to do that.

 

[D.Hearne]

At most, you may have to drop the front of the pan some to facilitate getting the timing cover back on.

 

[gsxrken]

Sounds like this might be first time. Good for you for diving in. Just make sure to use the proper break-in lube on the cam lobes and use Shell Rotella diesel spec oil for the high zinc content to protect your cam lobes. You should have your engine all ready to re-fire on the first few cranks (rotor pointed at number one cylinder on the cap, fuel in the carb bowls) so that it's not spinning for long without starting and building oil pressure quickly. Then you run the engine at 2500 RPMs for half an hour to assure good break-in of the cam under plenty of oil pressure. Search stangnet for cam and engine break in. Many people have learned the hard way. Good luck.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

what shop manual is it? no good shop manual should ever tell you to do that.

If I had to guess by the way the pages are numbered, I would say it's a Ford factory manual.

I would have pulled the pan anyway just to make it easier to put the timing cover on. If the crossmember bolts aren't stuck in the frame, it's only another 15 minutes.

 

[Fast63]

Looks more like a Chilton's type, haha.

Dropping the pan in the front is ok, I definitely recommend that, but why mess with the oil pump? Makes no sense

 

[htwheelz67]

you dont have to touch the pan, pull the timing cover and buy a timing cover gasket kit and a tube of slicone along with some "brake clean". Shell rotella doesn't have much more zinc anymore, I read somewhere there is a guy making motor oil with high levels of zinc, can't remember where though. Anymore, I wouldn't even buy a flat tappet cam but thats me.

 

[jlangholzj]

If I had to guess by the way the pages are numbered, I would say it's a Ford factory manual.

ford always has to make things difficult, don't they ; 8-9 ; 14-26

yeah it is my first time, and I've had a BLAST so far! can't think of anyhting else better to do.


why mess with the pump, well visit this link first:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2823976/2

long story short (it explains it on my site) the PO of the car dropepd in an engine for me as part of the deal. well in the process he broke the dist. cap and pulled the dist out. in the process he forgot to make sure that the oil pump drive was put back into the btm of the dist shaft. end result, a froze up brand new, no more than 1000 miles on it engine that ended up looking a bit like this:

so I wanted to make a point of dropping the pan to be sure that the oil pump drive gets hooked back up.



although I didn;t take any pics (both mine and andrews hands were covered in grease) we got the cam in today and set the lifters. so far, so good!!

Just make sure to use the proper break-in lube on the cam lobes and use Shell Rotella diesel spec oil for the high zinc content to protect your cam lobes.

i used the valvoline 15-40 instead, same difference. It also has the high zinc content. that and its really only a summer car, so i saw no need for a low temp oil, since it runs more in the mid-to high anyway


lol, good ole break in lube!! andrew asked me "is there such a thing as too much?" I replied with, " I don't know, we'll find out when we see how much we have left!!"

I used all the lube that came with the cam and a tic more from the bottle I bought just in case.

 

[jlangholzj]

well i decided to jump on it today and I got it all putback together, except one thing.

When I pulled the dampner off, I failed to remember that it's in two parts, and used a gear puller to try and pull it off. rookie move, i know when I realized that It was going south, I marked the outside ring and the inside with a marker (before it popped off). My question is that will I be able to re-use this dampner if I re-press the outside ring on?? or do I need a new dampner.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've never pulled one apart, so I can't say as to whether you could put it back together, but I'd buy a new one.

 

[Fast63]

I've never pulled one apart, so I can't say as to whether you could put it back together, but I'd buy a new one.

I agree, I wouldn't take any chances.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Throw that damper in the trash and get a new one. AFAIK, the damper ring is vulcanized onto the center hub and you can't exactly stick them back together.

Also, I recommend getting a damper puller. I have used them on many dampers and the only one I ever had a tough time with was a 460 with the damper glued on with Loctite. A little heat helped it along, though(damper was junk anyway).

 

[jlangholzj]

i didn't get a new one, but went to the mustang yard and cleaned up a new one. SHould fire tomorrow!!

 

[jlangholzj]

well no break in today. I got the whole thing put back together and it runs ok. oil pressure is good, no fuel leaks, but there's a coolant leak around the thermostat. so break in will have to wait until tomorrow.