Engine Building

First time carbd v8 building has began...

First question, what size stroke can fit in a 302 block?

the max i use is 3.4"


I'd like to build a 327 or 331, I know what dimensions I need to get bore and stroke wise. I'm using .030 over rebuild kit and 3.25 stroke crank.

ok, but why a 327?


Second question, what rods would I need?

depend upon how much hp you are trying to build. the rods come std, chromoly, forged, i beam and h beam. for around 360 hp or more i would use the forged i beam rods with arp bolts. if you go much more hp o would go forged h beam. the kits come with forged or cast crank and rods and forged pistons.


I've read you can some how use 289 rods, but they seem to be almost .3" to short. Could I use a bigger crank to compensate?

not really.


Third question, what heads should I use?

how much hp do you want. it also depends on cam selection etc.. common heads for strong 331's are afr 185 or comparable tw heads. for a mild build then edelbrock has "E street" 2.02" intake valve heads for just $1000.00.


0n 351w or 302?

again depends on the hp. you can get near 400 hp [maybe 360 hp] with 165 afr heads on a 302. some like the tw 170 heads more.


What's the best way to build a quick revving, flat torque curve(but high), reliable head set up?

what?

if you want quick revs, you need to install numerically high gears like 3.91, 4.11, 456 etc. the higher the number the quicker the revs but the lower the top speed.


When it comes to carbs I'm alil lost.

depends on the hp/power range.


I have most of these parts minus the carb, intake, and rods. Using mostly arp bolts and just 302 rebuild gaskets. Also using a rear sump oil pan(Using sn95 suspension stuff)
.

I'd do a 347. I like Coast High Performance. They sell kits with shorter rods (5.315") so the pistons don't get too short. You want to pick all the components to work together. That means the pistons (dome/flat top/reverse dome) have to complement the heads and cam giving you the right dynamic compression (look up calculators online) so you won't have trouble running pump gas. You want the maximum compression to make the most power. I would start with the cam based on your rough ideas for heads and power goals. With the specifics from the cam you will be able to determine how much static compression to get the dynamic compression that will work with pump gas. Comp isn't a bad place to go for a cam. If you give them the weight of the car, gearing, transmission, converter stall, exhaust, etc. they will be able to pick something good for you.

http://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-347-engine-kits-flat-top-s/130432.htm

With a 347 you'll make more torque and the power comes on at a lower RPM. You can still tell the Chivy guys it's a 327. I won't give away your secret.

I agree AFR 185 are a good choice for heads.

AustunXXI said:

Only want a 327 to tick off Chevy guys lol

I should rephrase quick revving, I mean responsive. Fast throttle response.

I'm wanting 300 whp

Click to expand...

hello;

well carb size depends on the build but in general you dshould ;likely be og with a 650 thry 750.

i would run an annular booster style. comp, summit and trick fuel sell them..

300 whp isn't hard but its easier with a 357. a 347 will rev less than a b327 with equal hp so nif you prefer a revver, build an small ci eng.

if its a daily driver and you want long engine life, i would build a 331, not a 347.
.

jack roush put a 3.5" stroke crank into a 302 block in 1979, and punched the bore over by .060" for a 363ci motor for the indy pace car. but he used a boss 302 block.

i think hack hit the best combination though, one thing i would change is to use a 5.4" rod, but either one works well, it just depends on your overall vision for this motor.

Yes, the OP hasn't said what transmission or rear gear he is planning, or if it is a street car or a track car. Also, nothing mentioned about ignition.