Engine Engine Mounts - Rubber vs Poly

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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What's the go-to for engine mounts these days? Many older threads list buying OEM Ford mounts, but those are long gone. ALl we are left with are cheap parts store mounts, and poly mounts.

Looks like there is only one manufacturer of the stock style mounts. (Even LMR says this). so do I stick with something like this..


Or do I go with a poly engine mount like this? The energy suspension mount mimics the convertible style mount.

I can get them from Rockauto.com for $175 shipped with the 5% discount. However, I can also get $15 stock rubber mounts like the LRS mounts.


I will be running a stock-style OEM trans mount with both. My use of the car is strictly street cruising, so debating which ones would be the best to go with here. $175 for poly, or $30 for OEM-style rubber.
 
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Strictly Street cruising spend the $30.00 on the rubber mounts and use the rest for gas. If anything the poly mounts will transfer more vibration to the chassis. My 2 cents worth.
 
Strictly Street cruising spend the $30.00 on the rubber mounts and use the rest for gas. If anything the poly mounts will transfer more vibration to the chassis. My 2 cents worth.

SInce i made the original post and now, i've done some research on the OEM-style mounts available and have read nothing but terrible reviews. Holes drilled in the wrong spots and such. Pioneer 602725 and 602726 seem to be the "best" of the OE style rubber out there, and their reviews are quite terrible.

Reading reviews on the energy suspension mounts, it doesn't seem too harsh....would like some feedback from those who went rubber to the energy suspension parts.

I ended up buying both styles on Amazon. I'll compare in hand and see how they mount up and just return the ones I don't use.
 
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Steel LMR solids. Bad reputation , but I like them. No vibration, and you feel the road and the power. Plus they raised my motor about two inches. Only fourty bucks. If you dont like them throw them in a bucket or CL em. I have stock tranny mount.
 
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Raising the motor is a non-starter. With my intake spacer, i'm already close to the stock hood blanket. I need to swap to the vert mounts.

Either way, I ordered both and will return whichever one doesn't sweet talk me into keeping them.
 
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I have the energy red poly mounts and I notice no difference in NVH from my dad's 94 with intact rubber mounts. It is hard to get a direct comparison as my car has more suspension mods so I cannot speak to the "performance" benefit but they work fine and the fitment is perfect.
I had the part store cheap rubber version. They simply did not fit. We spent an entire day to no avail and decided to dish out the extra cash for the poly. They went in without a problem. That alone makes them worth it to me, shouldn't have to clearance replacement mounts. and plus, they look pretty under there!
 
I have the auto parts store vert mounts. I installed them when I first got the car 4 years ago and have had no issues with them. They did drop the motor a little bit over the stock 91 mounts. From what I can remember I had to do a little bit of grinding to get them to fit right.
 
I used stock replacement vert mounts from Rock Auto when we did my 393 build.
They definitely helped to lower the engine a bit but the drivers side locating dowel wouldn't line up
with it's corresponding hole.
It finally agreed to locate itself after many cuss words , pry bars and beating !
 
I just changed mine energy suspension engine and trans sits up nice and straight .... I’ll have the car started in a week but I’m quite sure I’ll be happy with them ....the rubber ones did seem flimsy
 

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One of the bolt holes engine mount was stripped now I have to heli coil or time sert the stripped threads :mad::mad::mad:
 

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One of the bolt holes engine mount was stripped now I have to heli coil or time sert the stripped threads :mad::mad::mad:
Into steel, I would use a helicoil. Another car group I belong to debated which was best to repair aluminum block threads for head studs. A machinist did destruction testing on various repair gadgets into aluminum, and the Timecert was the strongest. But with sideways (sheer) force rather than pulling forces on this bolt hole, steel to steel seems like a better choice. Besides, no electrolysis will be involved.
 
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Both sets came in. The ES pieves are nice and heavy and well made. The parts store mounts seem cheap. They don’t even fit well. Both sides will need tweaking just to bolt onto the engine. One even looks like it was used.

if I could get oem Ford rubber mounts, I’d likely run those. But I can’t

fortunately I bought the rubber ones on Amazon so back they go. I’ll be using the poly
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