Engine Rebuild Advice - Summit re ring kit, etc

[TheUser]

My 306 in the GT only has a couple thousand miles on it, but it has a bad ring in cyclinder #5 due to the un-tuned supercharger combo it had when I bought it. The s/c is gone and I just want to get the thing freshened up w/ new rings and gaskets to stop the leaking gaskets too.

I've been looking at gasket sets, and re-ring kits at summitracing.com and have found this kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FEM%2D205653M%2D300&view=1&N=150
Are the rings included in that set good rings? They only sell for like $34.95 if you buy them alone. Do I need expensive rings or will those be good enough for a mild 300 hp combo?

Additionally, should I have the internals balanced? I don't plan to rev crazy high and the car won't see much track time. I don't plan to get the heads milled either because they were just cleaned up and inspected when I changed head gaskets about 300 miles ago. I want to sell it when I get it fixed, but I'm sure I won't be able to let it go. I need to get it fixed, but I'm on a budget too.

Also, the damper wobbles....should I buy a new stock damper or is that due to the crank?

 

[mattmcdan]

Those are cheap cast rings if they are only $35, It would be really hard for me to use cheaper parts when you are going to do that much work. I bought a nice set of moly rings from Napa, and a Corteco white coated gasket set from carquest. I cannot express how awesome Corteco gaskets are,

 

[TheUser]

I know $35 won't get much, which is kinda why I'm asking.

I was originally planning to buy the fel pro gaskets I need (all except head and valve cover gaskets) and Total Seal conventional rings ($99 @ summit). I'd then buy rod, main, and cam bearings, an oil pump and ARP shaft.

I'm not sure about a new balancer or motor mounts yet.

 

[R2D2]

I would use a sealed power moly ring package, dont worry about balancing on a low rpm motor if you are just changing rings and bearings. As for the balancer, can you see if the outer ring has slipped or is crooked, just use a stock replacement or whatever fits in your budget. As for it being the crank, thats a whole nother' issue.

 

[TheUser]

as far as that goes, would it be totally stupid to wait and pull the bearings out and see how they look? Then, if they look ok, just re-use them? The engine should only have 1000-2000 miles on it if the dude I bought the car from told the truth.

 

[mattmcdan]

The rings I mentioned earlier (sealed power moly rings) I got from NAPA, they cost like $109 and have a moly top ring. Sure you can get them at summit for $99 but they charge you $9 handling and you have to wait like 3-4 days. Also I got my engine bearings from NAPA. Pretty much same price as summit. my $.02

 

[R2D2]

as far as that goes, would it be totally stupid to wait and pull the bearings out and see how they look? Then, if they look ok, just re-use them? The engine should only have 1000-2000 miles on it if the dude I bought the car from told the truth.

if you are that far into it, I would spend the 50 bucks or at the very least check the current bearings like this http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,59.0.html I dont believe anyone when it comes to motors, everyones used car is mint and only has highway miles on it, get my drift?

 

[TheUser]

The rings I mentioned earlier (sealed power moly rings) I got from NAPA, they cost like $109 and have a moly top ring. Sure you can get them at summit for $99 but they charge you $9 handling and you have to wait like 3-4 days. Also I got my engine bearings from NAPA. Pretty much same price as summit. my $.02

I don't understand the differences in a few different sets of rings, still.

I searched on summit and compared 4 sets of rings:

SLP-E-251K030 - $34.95http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=SLP-E-251K030&N=0&Ntt=TSR-CL909030%20or%20SLP-R9903030%20or%20SLP-E-377K030%20or%20SLP-E-251K030&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=P_SRE_DisplayPrice|1
SLP-R9903030 -$95.95http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=SLP-R9903030&N=0&Ntt=TSR-CL909030%20or%20SLP-R9903030%20or%20SLP-E-377K030%20or%20SLP-E-251K030&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=P_SRE_DisplayPrice|1
SLP-E-377K030-$47.69http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=SLP-E-377K030&N=0&Ntt=TSR-CL909030%20or%20SLP-R9903030%20or%20SLP-E-377K030%20or%20SLP-E-251K030&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=P_SRE_DisplayPrice|1
TSR-CL909030-$99.95http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=TSR-CL909030&N=0&Ntt=TSR-CL909030%20or%20SLP-R9903030%20or%20SLP-E-377K030%20or%20SLP-E-251K030&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=P_SRE_DisplayPrice|1

I can see a few differences on the TSR's: Top and 2nd ring material is cast iron (isn't that bad?), 2nd ring is gapless, low oil ring tension, and something about Claimer Moly?

Other than that and the SLP-R9903030 rings have a plasma-moly facing material, they're all about the same, but vary from $34.95-99.95. I understand you get what you pay for, I would just like to understand more what exactly I'd be paying for.

Thanks!