Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

AeroCoupe · Jul 27, 2023

Same guy on how to select a camshaft goes over the GT40P heads and how to rebuild them. Aluminum will out perform them but good videos for general information.

There are seven videos total so a good time killer that none of us have...

General karthief · Jul 27, 2023

Ok, engine is still in the car, everything is there to (theoretically) make it run and drive. Unless you are going to tear the entire drive train out to rebuild, including the brakes, I would get it up and running (at least), has brakes and will move on it's own, now access condition of the running gear, this can be done in a weekend or several evenings at the very minimum.
Now you can make a plan, ie: engine worn out? Rebuild or crate? 5 lug swap parts: kit or piece it together, this is an easy choice for me, get a 94-5 clapped out V6 mustang and you have basically everything you need, with a few upgraded new parts, you gots a bangup brake system. Been done thousands of times five different ways.
Meanwhile it's moving on it's own and electrical issues can be addressed.
There will be hiccups and bumps and you'll prolly change direction at least once.
If you're on a budget plan it that way, unlimited funds, like some here (yes I'm talking to you @limp ) then pick a catalog and punch in the numbers, there's a UPS man on every street, all we want to do is come along for the ride, try to give you good advice, unless it's coming from me (you're taking your chances there bud)
Now while I'm on a roll here, if you're gonna rebuild an engine grab a 5.0 that is out and at least turns over, rebuild it, again you can address other things on the car.
Show us your work here and we can applaud you or laugh when you get your finger coagh in the fan belt!

evintho · Jul 28, 2023

I did basically the same budget build you're wanting to do with a '93 5.0 that I swapped into my '54 Ford. It was a 100k motor that was in great condition and didn't need an over bore or new pistons. I have a total of $900 into it including $450 in headwork. As of now it runs. I have a couple of tuning issues but the motor itself has good compression, good power, doesn't smoke and not a leak anywhere. Check out page 2 of my build thread. It may be of some help to you.............

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/1954-ford-customline-build-thread.545181/page-2

limp · Jul 28, 2023

General karthief said:
If you're on a budget plan it that way, unlimited funds, like some here (yes I'm talking to you @limp )

I keep tellilng you I am spending my kids inheritance.....
AND if I want to be picked on I can call my EX wife..... LOL

LILCBRA · Jul 28, 2023

limp said:
AND if I want to be picked on I can call my EX wife..... LOL

Picked on or have a fight picked? It seems that there is a difference.....

limp · Jul 28, 2023

LILCBRA said:
Picked on or have a fight picked? It seems that there is a difference.....

She ran off 29 years ago... So I am not use to being abused anymore.... LOL

JulianR · Jul 28, 2023

Thank you guys for your help so far. I'll have 1000 more questions, but to keep you guys coming back-- pic for motivation =D

FernStang · Jul 28, 2023

Fix the leaks and get a trickflow top end kit. No guess work just install and have fun with you’re son.

JulianR · Jul 28, 2023

out of curiosity-- been watching a 302 rebuild series on youtube. The guy tore apart the engine down to the block, and sent it in to the machine shop to do cleaning, boring and so on. Also sent the crank shaft in to the shop for polishing lobes. Said the total bill was about 2k. I started looking at new parts, a brand new crankshaft looks to be under $300 from Summit. A new block is like $800. Am I wrong, or why waste the money on the machine shop instead of buying brand new?

Hot Stang · Jul 28, 2023

JulianR said:
Hi,

I have an 89 Mustang GT, manual. I've owned it for about 10 years. The engine leaks oil (I see it on the ground). Also periodically need to add antifreeze. I've been wanting to pull the engine and at the very least re-gasket it. Make a father/son project of it as well. Ideally, while the engine is out, would like to give it some more power. Was thinking of changing out the heads for something aluminum and would love to change the cams for something a little loopy sounding. Not planing to race, but would like the extra power. So here are the questions:

1. I thought the heads they sell online are plug and play, but you seemed to need to measure and change the pushrods, check valve clearance? I've done auto fixes before, but never actually pulled an engine, will be my first time. Are there any known heads/cam combo for the 302 stock engine that I can just purchase and install and know nothing will break?

2. I see heads for sale for like $1000+ per head. And when you're done with the extras, you're $3-4k in for just top-end engine parts. I may have been asleep for a while, but I bought the whole car for $4500. Paying that much in just engine addons is nuts. Are there any sources you know of where I can buy the new parts I need, heads, lifters, rods, cams, lower/upper manifold and gaskets and be around $2k or less? I've seen like AFR aluminum heads on eBay for about $600 with good reviews.

Finally, I know there's probably an ideal way of rebuilding an old engine-- take it all apart, send it to the shop to get cleaned, measured, honed and so on. I don't have the money to do that. The engine runs and the car drive, at the very least, I just want it not to leak and it's been my bucket list item to pull and engine and clean it up.

Your advice is appreciated.

Thank you!
Julian

400 hp 302 Small-Block - Mustang & Fords Magazine

Check out this 302 small-block making 400 hp on pump gas, only on Mustang & Fords Magazine.

www.motortrend.com

Machine work isn't really expensive. Junkyard heads are usually cheap. Maybe just have them plained down to make sure surface is true.
You don't have to go all the way with that build. It does use the stock heads though.
I went a little crazy and tweaked it.

Hot Stang · Jul 28, 2023

JulianR said:
out of curiosity-- been watching a 302 rebuild series on youtube. The guy tore apart the engine down to the block, and sent it in to the machine shop to do cleaning, boring and so on. Also sent the crank shaft in to the shop for polishing lobes. Said the total bill was about 2k. I started looking at new parts, a brand new crankshaft looks to be under $300 from Summit. A new block is like $800. Am I wrong, or why waste the money on the machine shop instead of buying brand new?

I only paid maybe $200 for my crank. Crank shaft inc.com. I ordered a stock '85 HO crank. That's what my block is. Came with main bearings.

Hot Stang · Jul 28, 2023

AeroCoupe said:
Same guy on how to select a camshaft goes over the GT40P heads and how to rebuild them. Aluminum will out perform them but good videos for general information.

There are seven videos total so a good time killer that none of us have...

It doesn't take much to get the P heads ready. Plain them down and a little spring work.

Hot Stang · Jul 28, 2023

Yes I went overboard.

limp · Jul 29, 2023

I purchased a complete "Explorer" engine from a wrecking yard for $400 with the P heads...
The heads were magged and " machined" by the Machine shop and included a simple valve grind ( No multi angle cut)
Purchased some new beehive springs, viton seals and new keepers from Alex's parts and assembled the heads my self in my garage..
Yes, I had to purchase a few new tools but it wasn't bad.. Thousands less than new " good " aluminum heads and I " think" its going to be a good little street car.... Second pic is the mic to adjust spring height with other parts from Alex's....

limp · Jul 29, 2023

These are the shorty headers I found on Amazon for $81...
They were advertised as works on P heads and they did.. I did purchase the special spark plug socket from Trick Flow, designed for LS engines which made the few " hard to tighten" plugs no big deal.....
Since then I found some FRPP Headers and purchased them just because.. I wasn't even going to install them but out of curiosity one night I did...
Took me less than 1 hour to replace ( no exhaust system, headers only)
To be honest, the FRPP headers really were no better than the ching chong specials from Amazon for fit and finish..
The " problem " P heads have been pretty simple in my opinion to make work....
The spark plugs in my old 440 six pack Super Bee with stock exhausts were much harder to do than these......

Hot Stang · Jul 29, 2023

I see they are just a single spring. My springs are matched to my cam. The machine shop wanted to get the specs for cam to get proper spring strength.
I'm not running a big cam. I went for the duration of cam for a street car. Seeing I'm running 273 gears Frankenstein is very fast off the line. My 0-60 is in the 5 second range. 1st gear will do 60 mph itself.

Hot Stang · Jul 29, 2023

limp said:
These are the shorty headers I found on Amazon for $81...
They were advertised as works on P heads and they did.. I did purchase the special spark plug socket from Trick Flow, designed for LS engines which made the few " hard to tighten" plugs no big deal.....
Since then I found some FRPP Headers and purchased them just because.. I wasn't even going to install them but out of curiosity one night I did...
Took me less than 1 hour to replace ( no exhaust system, headers only)
To be honest, the FRPP headers really were no better than the ching chong specials from Amazon for fit and finish..
The " problem " P heads have been pretty simple in my opinion to make work....
The spark plugs in my old 440 six pack Super Bee with stock exhausts were much harder to do than these......

You found same ones I did off eBay. They work perfectly with my side pipes.

Hot Stang · Jul 29, 2023

Just a toy.

Hot Stang · Jul 29, 2023

Hot Stang · Jul 29, 2023

You don't need to get your parts from big named companies. Rock Auto and eBay are good friends to me. You can save a good bit by shopping with them.
Getting my block bored only ran me $100. Shaving head surface was another $100, for both heads. Pistons from Rock Auto are cheaper than you think. You can shop around for that cam. Don't buy the 1st one you come across. Like I proved you don't need a big thumping cam to make power. Stay in the 180° duration range and you can have a mean monster on the road for cheap.

Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

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wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

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