Engine Engine rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter JulianR
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- 302 rebuild 5.0 rebuild
Ok, engine is still in the car, everything is there to (theoretically) make it run and drive. Unless you are going to tear the entire drive train out to rebuild, including the brakes, I would get it up and running (at least), has brakes and will move on it's own, now access condition of the running gear, this can be done in a weekend or several evenings at the very minimum.
Now you can make a plan, ie: engine worn out? Rebuild or crate? 5 lug swap parts: kit or piece it together, this is an easy choice for me, get a 94-5 clapped out V6 mustang and you have basically everything you need, with a few upgraded new parts, you gots a bangup brake system. Been done thousands of times five different ways.
Meanwhile it's moving on it's own and electrical issues can be addressed.
There will be hiccups and bumps and you'll prolly change direction at least once.
If you're on a budget plan it that way, unlimited funds, like some here (yes I'm talking to you @limp
) then pick a catalog and punch in the numbers, there's a UPS man on every street, all we want to do is come along for the ride, try to give you good advice, unless it's coming from me (you're taking your chances there bud)
Now while I'm on a roll here, if you're gonna rebuild an engine grab a 5.0 that is out and at least turns over, rebuild it, again you can address other things on the car.
Show us your work here and we can applaud you or laugh when you get your finger coagh in the fan belt!
Now you can make a plan, ie: engine worn out? Rebuild or crate? 5 lug swap parts: kit or piece it together, this is an easy choice for me, get a 94-5 clapped out V6 mustang and you have basically everything you need, with a few upgraded new parts, you gots a bangup brake system. Been done thousands of times five different ways.
Meanwhile it's moving on it's own and electrical issues can be addressed.
There will be hiccups and bumps and you'll prolly change direction at least once.
If you're on a budget plan it that way, unlimited funds, like some here (yes I'm talking to you @limp
) then pick a catalog and punch in the numbers, there's a UPS man on every street, all we want to do is come along for the ride, try to give you good advice, unless it's coming from me (you're taking your chances there bud)Now while I'm on a roll here, if you're gonna rebuild an engine grab a 5.0 that is out and at least turns over, rebuild it, again you can address other things on the car.
Show us your work here and we can applaud you or laugh when you get your finger coagh in the fan belt!
evintho
20+ Year Stangneter 
I did basically the same budget build you're wanting to do with a '93 5.0 that I swapped into my '54 Ford. It was a 100k motor that was in great condition and didn't need an over bore or new pistons. I have a total of $900 into it including $450 in headwork. As of now it runs. I have a couple of tuning issues but the motor itself has good compression, good power, doesn't smoke and not a leak anywhere. Check out page 2 of my build thread. It may be of some help to you.............
I keep tellilng you I am spending my kids inheritance.....If you're on a budget plan it that way, unlimited funds, like some here (yes I'm talking to you @limp
AND if I want to be picked on I can call my EX wife..... LOL
Thank you guys for your help so far. I'll have 1000 more questions, but to keep you guys coming back-- pic for motivation =D
out of curiosity-- been watching a 302 rebuild series on youtube. The guy tore apart the engine down to the block, and sent it in to the machine shop to do cleaning, boring and so on. Also sent the crank shaft in to the shop for polishing lobes. Said the total bill was about 2k. I started looking at new parts, a brand new crankshaft looks to be under $300 from Summit. A new block is like $800. Am I wrong, or why waste the money on the machine shop instead of buying brand new?
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400 hp 302 Small-Block - Mustang & Fords Magazine
Check out this 302 small-block making 400 hp on pump gas, only on Mustang & Fords Magazine.
Machine work isn't really expensive. Junkyard heads are usually cheap. Maybe just have them plained down to make sure surface is true.
You don't have to go all the way with that build. It does use the stock heads though.
I went a little crazy and tweaked it.
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I only paid maybe $200 for my crank. Crank shaft inc.com. I ordered a stock '85 HO crank. That's what my block is. Came with main bearings.
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It doesn't take much to get the P heads ready. Plain them down and a little spring work.
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I purchased a complete "Explorer" engine from a wrecking yard for $400 with the P heads...
The heads were magged and " machined" by the Machine shop and included a simple valve grind ( No multi angle cut)
Purchased some new beehive springs, viton seals and new keepers from Alex's parts and assembled the heads my self in my garage..
Yes, I had to purchase a few new tools but it wasn't bad.. Thousands less than new " good " aluminum heads and I " think" its going to be a good little street car.... Second pic is the mic to adjust spring height with other parts from Alex's....
The heads were magged and " machined" by the Machine shop and included a simple valve grind ( No multi angle cut)
Purchased some new beehive springs, viton seals and new keepers from Alex's parts and assembled the heads my self in my garage..
Yes, I had to purchase a few new tools but it wasn't bad.. Thousands less than new " good " aluminum heads and I " think" its going to be a good little street car.... Second pic is the mic to adjust spring height with other parts from Alex's....
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These are the shorty headers I found on Amazon for $81...
They were advertised as works on P heads and they did.. I did purchase the special spark plug socket from Trick Flow, designed for LS engines which made the few " hard to tighten" plugs no big deal.....
Since then I found some FRPP Headers and purchased them just because.. I wasn't even going to install them but out of curiosity one night I did...
Took me less than 1 hour to replace ( no exhaust system, headers only)
To be honest, the FRPP headers really were no better than the ching chong specials from Amazon for fit and finish..
The " problem " P heads have been pretty simple in my opinion to make work....
The spark plugs in my old 440 six pack Super Bee with stock exhausts were much harder to do than these......
They were advertised as works on P heads and they did.. I did purchase the special spark plug socket from Trick Flow, designed for LS engines which made the few " hard to tighten" plugs no big deal.....
Since then I found some FRPP Headers and purchased them just because.. I wasn't even going to install them but out of curiosity one night I did...
Took me less than 1 hour to replace ( no exhaust system, headers only)
To be honest, the FRPP headers really were no better than the ching chong specials from Amazon for fit and finish..
The " problem " P heads have been pretty simple in my opinion to make work....
The spark plugs in my old 440 six pack Super Bee with stock exhausts were much harder to do than these......
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I see they are just a single spring. My springs are matched to my cam. The machine shop wanted to get the specs for cam to get proper spring strength.
I'm not running a big cam. I went for the duration of cam for a street car. Seeing I'm running 273 gears Frankenstein is very fast off the line. My 0-60 is in the 5 second range. 1st gear will do 60 mph itself.
I'm not running a big cam. I went for the duration of cam for a street car. Seeing I'm running 273 gears Frankenstein is very fast off the line. My 0-60 is in the 5 second range. 1st gear will do 60 mph itself.
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You found same ones I did off eBay. They work perfectly with my side pipes.These are the shorty headers I found on Amazon for $81...
They were advertised as works on P heads and they did.. I did purchase the special spark plug socket from Trick Flow, designed for LS engines which made the few " hard to tighten" plugs no big deal.....
Since then I found some FRPP Headers and purchased them just because.. I wasn't even going to install them but out of curiosity one night I did...
Took me less than 1 hour to replace ( no exhaust system, headers only)
To be honest, the FRPP headers really were no better than the ching chong specials from Amazon for fit and finish..
The " problem " P heads have been pretty simple in my opinion to make work....
The spark plugs in my old 440 six pack Super Bee with stock exhausts were much harder to do than these......
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You don't need to get your parts from big named companies. Rock Auto and eBay are good friends to me. You can save a good bit by shopping with them.
Getting my block bored only ran me $100. Shaving head surface was another $100, for both heads. Pistons from Rock Auto are cheaper than you think. You can shop around for that cam. Don't buy the 1st one you come across. Like I proved you don't need a big thumping cam to make power. Stay in the 180° duration range and you can have a mean monster on the road for cheap.
Getting my block bored only ran me $100. Shaving head surface was another $100, for both heads. Pistons from Rock Auto are cheaper than you think. You can shop around for that cam. Don't buy the 1st one you come across. Like I proved you don't need a big thumping cam to make power. Stay in the 180° duration range and you can have a mean monster on the road for cheap.
