Engine Engine rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter JulianR
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From what I have read it appears that from 79-early 82 the engines were blue from pan to valve covers, from mid 82 to mid late 92 they were gray from pan to valve covers, and from 93 and up the pan and valve covers were black and the block was bare.
85GTStangGuy
Active Member
evintho
10 Year Member
Ford red rocks! It looks a little orangish cuz of the camera flash but it's more red in real life.
Here's the paint I used. DE1605 Ford Red........
Here's the paint I used. DE1605 Ford Red........
So I bought piston rings: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-E-251K
Last night tried assembling them, but the pattern of the oil ring is such that it doesn't fit the groove on the piston. Anyone experience that? Pistons are stock-- no change.
Last night tried assembling them, but the pattern of the oil ring is such that it doesn't fit the groove on the piston. Anyone experience that? Pistons are stock-- no change.
keel
Active Member
I had a similar issue when assembling my engine. The rings I got were for an earlier model 302, where the compression rings are 5/64" and the oil control ring pack is 3/16". The later model 302 went to a metric ring pack, where the compression rings are 1.5mm thickness and the oil control ring pack is a 4mm thickness, which is ever so slightly smaller. Not exactly sure when this transition was made. It was a big enough difference that the rings did not fit inside the grooves. I would measure the ring grooves.
You may already be aware of this but I thought I should add that you have moly rings, and stock rings are cast iron. You should make sure that the finish hone on your cylinder walls are matched to the rings you have, as moly and cast iron rings have a different coarseness for the cross hatching required for proper break-in. Moly rings use a much finer grit finish than iron rings.
If you have an OReillys they stock Sealed Power and I ran them in a couple of 306’s with zero issues. Not sure if they stock them anymore as this was back when the 302’s were still prevalent.
@keel looks like you were right. Thank you for the tip! My pistons do use metric rings. Just got a set that finally fits. Now need to find some time to work on it again. Tough with the schools staring, but hoping to make some progress next week.
Well, got some time last night, was able to install the crankshaft. Installed all new main bearings. Cleaned them, but the crank in dry. Put in Plastigauge, torqued everything down, took apart. 0.0015. Perfect spec.
Cleaned up the plastigauge, lubed all bearings up, put the crank shaft in. Torqued all the caps except the thrust bearing cap. Pre-loaded the crank and tightened down. However, I didn't visually see the rank move. Looking online, people say the spec is 0.004-0.008. That's enough to see it move with the naked eye.
The crank is stock and was not turned. All the bearings are stock size as well (new). I haven't measured with the dial indicator, but is this looking wrong?
Cleaned up the plastigauge, lubed all bearings up, put the crank shaft in. Torqued all the caps except the thrust bearing cap. Pre-loaded the crank and tightened down. However, I didn't visually see the rank move. Looking online, people say the spec is 0.004-0.008. That's enough to see it move with the naked eye.
The crank is stock and was not turned. All the bearings are stock size as well (new). I haven't measured with the dial indicator, but is this looking wrong?
keel
Active Member
What do you mean by 'pre-loaded the crank'? I just torque down all the mains and then push the crank forward and backward to check endplay.
I was following the ford rebuilding book-- there was a step that said to push the crank forward, and the thrust bearing cap backward, then torque the thrust bearing cap while applying forward pressure on the crank. I did that, but didn't see the crank move forward or backward even a hair. Watched a youtube video, and the guy moved the crank and you could see it walk.
The crank does spin nicely and easily by hand even with all the caps torqued to 65 ft lbs
The crank does spin nicely and easily by hand even with all the caps torqued to 65 ft lbs
I have seen people put some fairly large pry bars and give it a pretty good tug testing the thrust bearing clearance.... If its too small you can remove the thrust bearing and LIGHTLY sand it on a flat surface to gain some clearance...
MadSquirrelTech
Member
Ok, I realize this is a quote from a little while back, but I’ve hear about this low dollar summit block a couple of times now, but can’t seem to find it. Does anyone have a link to them?
Thanks
Dyno'd 311 rwhp with AFR165s (60cc pedestal mount milled 20cc), Cobra intake (before Ed Curtis ported it), and a 224/228 .555/.560 111LSA FTI cam. Had 24 lbs injectors, 65mm TB, 75mm Pro-M bullet.
I mean, I don't know what your goals really are, and that's not amazing compared to some 302 combos, but that was stout and a fun street car.
I mean, I don't know what your goals really are, and that's not amazing compared to some 302 combos, but that was stout and a fun street car.
No concrete plans really
Just trying to clean it up, make it daily drivable and give it a few horses. At this point, I was able to find some GT40P heads and bought a Stage 1 TFS cam. Still looking for a better intake than my stock, but for now that's less important than the other stuff I already picked up. We'll see how it turns out.
