Engine Engine rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter JulianR
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- 302 rebuild 5.0 rebuild
You'll have to hit it pretty hard to break it, and a screw driver handle shouldn't affect it in any harmful way. It's effectively a soft blow hammer - now if you were gonna try to drive it out with an actual hammer or something - that might have an effect. It's hard to explain, but you're just giving it a good thump. Or you could give it a fairly forceful push - that's pretty much all the other type of compressor is going to do for you. And you're not putting a side load on it that way, so unless they're seized in the guides you're not going to bend them or anything. Give it a whack and see what it does. Worst case scenario is you screw up *one* valve - you'll know what NOT to do if that happens.
I have a smallish piece of bronze that was going to be scrapped at a place I used to work that was kinda shaped like a hammer, that's what I used. If you have a decent sized piece of aluminum that would work to. You just don't want to use anything that's harder than the valve material to smack the valve head. You're basically giving it a good shock to break it loose, once that's done it'll come right apart for you.
It's a lot the same concept as removing a collet from a Bridgeport knee mill. The R8 collet is locked into the spindle by the drawbar and the taper and kept from spinning by a key. You loosen the drawbar but the collet won't just fall out, you gotta give it a little shock. Here's a couple videos to show what I'm talking about:
You can see it's a decent whack - it's not like driving a nail or anything, but it's not like you're tapping someone on the shoulder. Think of the drawbar as the head of the valve and the collet as the keepers. Give the valve a whack and the keepers will suddenly let go.
I have a smallish piece of bronze that was going to be scrapped at a place I used to work that was kinda shaped like a hammer, that's what I used. If you have a decent sized piece of aluminum that would work to. You just don't want to use anything that's harder than the valve material to smack the valve head. You're basically giving it a good shock to break it loose, once that's done it'll come right apart for you.
It's a lot the same concept as removing a collet from a Bridgeport knee mill. The R8 collet is locked into the spindle by the drawbar and the taper and kept from spinning by a key. You loosen the drawbar but the collet won't just fall out, you gotta give it a little shock. Here's a couple videos to show what I'm talking about:
You can see it's a decent whack - it's not like driving a nail or anything, but it's not like you're tapping someone on the shoulder. Think of the drawbar as the head of the valve and the collet as the keepers. Give the valve a whack and the keepers will suddenly let go.
Ahhhh, sounds reasonableWell, I bought the heads from a guy on facebook. At the very least I'll find out what state the heads are in and replace the valve seals. Better now then to find out something is wrong when the engine is in the car
carry on.
Well, the harbor freight C valve compressor sucks. Couldn't get it to align straight between the valve head and the spring retainer. Ended up bending the tool's tip.
I guess I'm gonna try whacking a socket over the retainer harder to try and get the keepers out, otherwise, I'm out of ideas.
I guess I'm gonna try whacking a socket over the retainer harder to try and get the keepers out, otherwise, I'm out of ideas.
Have you sprayed the valve tips with carb cleaner? I would do that a couple of times and then use the socket and hammer to shock them. Use a couple of 2x4's or 2x6's and span the cylinder you are working on so that if the valve comes down when you are trying to break things loose it does not contact the top of the work bench.
Finally, after gaining some confidence and upgrading to a 5lb hammer, the springs came off. Thank you all for your help.
As a retired automotive machine shop manager and Ford Racing engine builder/distributor/shop owner I have enjoyed going thru this entire post. I must say that most of the responses have been quite good. Allow me to take a reverse tact and mention a few items where I have been witness to mistakes made by those that have avoided the dreaded machine-shop issues/cost.
1.) With mileage comes the walking or movement of the main bearing webs in the block. The original main bearings will wear accordingly as this SLOWLY takes place. The main bearings are removed in the rebuild process and obviously replaced with new bearings which do not have this wear. Now installing the crank finds that either it is locked up or turns poorly. The block needs an align-hone.
2.) If your cam bearings were good before...they won't be after a caustic hot tanking.
3.) Your using your old hi-mileage pistons and you've installed your new rings without cleaning the back of the ring grooves. Gee...why have you broken off the piston's top ring lands attempting to re-install them in the block ?
4.) Your didn't remove the cylinder wall top ridge with a cutter and now the rings are broken and/or the piston top ring land is toast. Or...your inexperience with the cutter has hurt the top of the cylinder.
5.) Doing a valve job causes a loss of compression...
6.) Doing a valve job causes a loss of airflow unless done by a qualified cylinder head porter with experience with that particular cyl. head...
7.) Anyone doing #5 or #6 on an NHRA National Record holder's cylinder heads results in loss of life.
8.) Installing Aluminum cylinder heads results in loss of compression due to lack of thermal reflection properties...all other things being equal of course. What are you doing about it...hmmm ?
9.) Installing a cam with extended duration causes a loss of dynamic compression.
10.) 1000 plus other things....including have a Chevy guy work on your Ford...
BTW...good deal picking up those heads/springs considering your cost outlines...lap-in the valves just to check seating...& how's the guides ?
1.) With mileage comes the walking or movement of the main bearing webs in the block. The original main bearings will wear accordingly as this SLOWLY takes place. The main bearings are removed in the rebuild process and obviously replaced with new bearings which do not have this wear. Now installing the crank finds that either it is locked up or turns poorly. The block needs an align-hone.
2.) If your cam bearings were good before...they won't be after a caustic hot tanking.
3.) Your using your old hi-mileage pistons and you've installed your new rings without cleaning the back of the ring grooves. Gee...why have you broken off the piston's top ring lands attempting to re-install them in the block ?
4.) Your didn't remove the cylinder wall top ridge with a cutter and now the rings are broken and/or the piston top ring land is toast. Or...your inexperience with the cutter has hurt the top of the cylinder.
5.) Doing a valve job causes a loss of compression...
6.) Doing a valve job causes a loss of airflow unless done by a qualified cylinder head porter with experience with that particular cyl. head...
7.) Anyone doing #5 or #6 on an NHRA National Record holder's cylinder heads results in loss of life.
8.) Installing Aluminum cylinder heads results in loss of compression due to lack of thermal reflection properties...all other things being equal of course. What are you doing about it...hmmm ?
9.) Installing a cam with extended duration causes a loss of dynamic compression.
10.) 1000 plus other things....including have a Chevy guy work on your Ford...
BTW...good deal picking up those heads/springs considering your cost outlines...lap-in the valves just to check seating...& how's the guides ?
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Guides look good. Just finished cleaning one head and valves. Lapping-in valves is next. Also, 2 shims were for some reason damaged, need to replace them-- so I'm glad I took the heads apart. Other than that, things seem to be in pretty good shape.
I’m enjoying this thread too. Reminds me of my first rebuild around 10 years ago. That was a simple rings, bearings, dingleball hone, gaskets rebuild. Got me a few years until I had the itch for moar powa.
Current engine has a bored and align honed block, Ed cam, AFR’s and Tmoss ported Explorer intake. It scoots in a swapped Miata.
Keep posting updates.
Current engine has a bored and align honed block, Ed cam, AFR’s and Tmoss ported Explorer intake. It scoots in a swapped Miata.
Keep posting updates.
