Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

just ordered Flashark headers as mine didn't fit. Supposedly they're equal length and fit the gt40p. Coming in from China for $148
WhatsApp Image 2024-08-13 at 10.54.41 AM 2.webp
WhatsApp Image 2024-08-13 at 10.54.41 AM.webp


Fit perfect. Pretty happy for the price. We'll see how they sound ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: limp
Those are unequal length but side by side on the dyno and there is not much difference. Look great and better yet they look like the spark plug access is good and the plug wires should fit well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JulianR
You're right! Good catch. I must have started my research with equal length and decided on the cheaper option. Yea, for street fun, the difference for me is negligible.
 
Honestly, you're better off. The engine dynos I've seen with only swaps between equal and unequal shorties, always leans a hair toward the unequals.

IMO, it's the [only] way to do shorties and if you're boosted, it's a no-brainer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JulianR
I did mine a few months(?) ago, goes from the solenoid down and over to the engine, the hanger with the twist in it should bolt to a boss on the timing cover on that side, comes around the front of the oil pan and that hanger will bolt to the side of the engine, I ran mine between the engine mount and the block back to the starter.
I'll try to get a pick but it's kinda crowded around there.
Thank you for the description. That was perfect. I got it done and found out why those 2 bolts were loose and unused :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: General karthief
One more tip I need help with. I ended up ordering a new thermostat housing that had a threaded hole for the temp sensor for the electric radiator fans. The problem is, the hose that connects the thermostat housing to the water pump is so small, I can't bend it far enough to get it back on the housing. My next plan is to take the thermostat housing off again, take the alternator off and put the hose on first, then try to install the housing, but I'd rather not take the alternator off.

If anyone has a tip on how to put the hose on the thermostat housing with minimal effort, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Julian
 
I have not had a problem with installing the bypass hose with all the accessories on. If it is a new hose I put the end that goes on the t-stat housing next to the fitting and then let the other end go past the water pump fitting. However far past the water pump fitting the hose it that is how much I trim off the t-stat housing end. Do the same thing for the water pump side. This gets it cut to length and ready to install. Next I use a minimal amount of digh washing liquid and put that in the hose on the ends to help them pop onto the fittings. I pinch the hose and start both ends at once and it will just pop into place. Takes some practice but it works for me. Another thing I do is put the hose clamps on the fittings and as the hose works onto the fittings then I slide the clamps over the hose.
 
Well, everything seems to be back together. The thermostat housing hose fought me for a bit, but the suggested trick worked. I think the biggest problem is that the water pump touches the hose and doesn't easily let it slide through.

So the plan is to try and start it today. I primed the oil last night. Now I read to use water instead of antifreeze to star the first time. Thoughts? It made sense to me, but once all is good, I don't know how to fully get the water out, and I live in MN-- would hate for the block to freeze.

I also turned the engine by hand until cylinder 1 is TDC and stubbed in the distributor with arrow pointing to the #1 point under the cap. If I end up being on the exhaust stroke, do I just turn the distributor 180 degrees?

Besides trying to start it and watching for fires and leaks, anything else to a first start I should know?
 
I start mine of 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. I think some suggest water in case they have a problem and have to tear it back down.
If so I recommend draining it right after the start up and adding antifreeze... I was surprised at how quickly mine rusted up......
 
If so I recommend draining it right after the start up and adding antifreeze... I was surprised at how quickly mine rusted up......
yea, I wanted to run water, but I don't think I could fully drain it through the radiator. And if I can't, then I risk a cracked block since I'm in Minnesota
 
yea, I wanted to run water, but I don't think I could fully drain it through the radiator. And if I can't, then I risk a cracked block since I'm in Minnesota
Any water that is left in the block will mix with as the engine runs, keep track of the amount of water you put in and then when you drain it, I bet it won't be a half gallon, prolly less, left in the block. Adjust with straight antifreeze then fill with the mix.
 
  • Like
Reactions: limp
man you make a good point. Now I need to run to the store to get distilled water. Thanks!
Any water that is left in the block will mix with as the engine runs, keep track of the amount of water you put in and then when you drain it, I bet it won't be a half gallon, prolly less, left in the block. Adjust with straight antifreeze then fill with the mix.
Who ME??
Some people are just easily impressed :jester:


It's the same speech he gave the night we struggled with the hookah. It turned out alright. :shrug:
 
  • Like
Reactions: JulianR
Well, after replacing battery clamps, the mustang finally started up. I don't have a timing light (yet), but was trying to time it by ear :) It ran a bit rough, but I was so thrilled it ran at all, I didn't record it :)

One video I saw about putting the distributor in, it made it look like the guy stuck it in with plenty of room to turn it to the left once it's fully seated. That's what I did. An yea, compression stroke, rotor pointing to cylinder 1, yadda yadda :)

Now I saw another video after it ran, the guy is saying he did something similar and was 1 tooth off on the distributor and the TFI module should be about 45 degrees to the right from center where mine is more I think. So that's the next thing I'm going to try.

Also, seemed like there was a bunch of whitish smoke from between the back of the engine and the firewall or transmission, but I haven't started trying to figure that out yet :)
 
You are going to have all kinds of smoke when firing a new motor or even one that you have done a HCI swap on. New paint, oil residue, antifreeze residue, header coating, etc.

You really need to quit F’ing around with trying to time the car by ear or guessing.

1) Go get a timing light
2) Get the motor up on TDC compression stroke
3) Set the dizzy pointing to #1 cylinder on the cap (put cap on dizzy transfer mark to body of dizzy)
4) Most of the ones I have seen (including mine) the plug on the TFI is at about the 4:00 to 5:00. This allows for timing room as the chip can fowl on the lower intake.

Picture from LMR:
1723904752541.png