If you look at my mods you will see what I am working with. The engine wants to run at 220 degrees and sometimes higher. I have a steeda 2 core radiator with a 195 degree stat. I am also using underdrive pulleys. Any ideas as to why I am running hot? I dont have the original pulleys and am thinking about changing back. Do you think the pulleys are to blame? I would really like to get it to run closer to the 195 or 200 mark. This is verified by my mech water temp gauge. It also runs like crap when its at this 220 mark.
engine running 220 deg consistently..
- Thread starter jruppert
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CManT1914
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You might try burping the coolant system. You could also try some water wetter. You could wire a manual fan switch (this gained me the most cooling gains, I run between 180-195). Your u/d pulleys might not be spinning your water pump fast enough. You could try swapping those back out too.
Are you running hotter at speed or in town? How are ambient temps? My bud lives in Ypsi and said it has been 90*F and high humidity lately.
I would not worry about the pulleys for now if you are running hot at speed too (which would suggest the system is simply not rejecting heat very well).
Good luck.
I would not worry about the pulleys for now if you are running hot at speed too (which would suggest the system is simply not rejecting heat very well).
Good luck.
I have already burped system and even drained coolant and added new 50/50. The car idles around 200-205 but if I get into it the temp climbs to 220 pretty fast. It has been extremely hot and humid the last few weeks. I know during the day it is horrible as far as performance. At night when it cools off the car runs great and temps stay 195-200 all the time. I have a tweecer and can adjust fan settings but I wasnt sure if I wanted the fan running all the time. Wasnt sure if this was safe? I have also thought about rerouting my mass air out into the fender area. I know during the day with it hot out it must be injesting a lot of hot air.
Yeah, you dont need to have the fan on at all times. If it runs when the t-stat is closed, it is not doing anything.
A decent stat might help you out. A balanced unit is the way to go - both stangs have Mr. Gasket 180* units here. They are fully balanced, open fully sooner and have a bleed hole. Some parts store stats dont open till 10-15*F past their rating. While a cooler stat is not a solution, it does help and might really help if your stat is not that great (when getting on it, an unbalanced stat can take some time to open up).
With the stock stat temp rating, the low speed on/off temps are about perfect. You could lower the threshold for the high speed if you wanted to. With a 180* stat, I would lower both thresholds.
My two cents.
Good luck.
A decent stat might help you out. A balanced unit is the way to go - both stangs have Mr. Gasket 180* units here. They are fully balanced, open fully sooner and have a bleed hole. Some parts store stats dont open till 10-15*F past their rating. While a cooler stat is not a solution, it does help and might really help if your stat is not that great (when getting on it, an unbalanced stat can take some time to open up).
With the stock stat temp rating, the low speed on/off temps are about perfect. You could lower the threshold for the high speed if you wanted to. With a 180* stat, I would lower both thresholds.
My two cents.
Good luck.
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