General karthief, I would tend to agree but that leaves me with little options and tearing into a motor. And yes to 74stang2togo, Definitely know how that works. I have not made that mistake in my many trips through small block fords but there is a first time for everything. My issue is, if I pull the heads I may go ahead and just put on some better heads or some of the off brand aluminum heads. Was saving the money to go with an aftermarket computer but may just have to spend it on heads.
The SN95 fan does have a shroud. It's very similar to the Mark VIII fan with a smaller diameter (16" vs 18")
I had the Mark VIII fan for 25 years. It would no longer fit with the new radiator, water pump, timing chain cover, etc.
Here's what the OEM SN95 fan looks like. Notice how it's offset to one side. You can turn it upside down to clear the water pump pulley.
Here's what the Mark VIII fan look like.
Here's what the OEM SN95 fan looks like. Notice how it's offset to one side. You can turn it upside down to clear the water pump pulley.
Mustang Electric Cooling Fan Assembly (94-96) F5ZZ-8607
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Here's what the Mark VIII fan look like.
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Ok, Just wanted to update this. I did buy the contour fans and I installed them with the same fan switch I was using on the other fan. I did not install them as two speed, Just wired them both to kick on when the correct temp is reached and low and behold the car no longer over heats. It gets to about 205 and sits there when driving. Even with the A/C on. Kind of wish I had left the 180 thermostat in now. So I will definitely admit when i am wrong but I suspect the other fans DO NOT pull the cfm they are suppose to. I will not buy cheap knock off fans again. But for now I can drive it without worrying about it grenading.
May not apply to yours, but my 82 cooled fine with a reverse rotation pump and a Taurus fan wiht GT40 iron heads and AFRS. For some reason the change to a 331 caused it to heat up to over 200 in a couple miles. Had an old brass 2 core radiator. Put an sve aluminum unit on it with their matching fans and an 85 crown vic std rotation pump and it still got hot. Changed to dual Maradyne fans and fixed it. The Maradyne setup also has rubber flaps that let air flow through the rad when moving. Stays at 185 now. the flowcooler is still in the box if i need it.
I know the problem is solved but here is another thought on your original fan set up. Build a shroud that covers the whole rad with a 1"-1.5" gap behind the fins. Cut 2 holes in the formed panel where you want your fans. This will improve their performance over what you had previously.
Another thought on the Contour fans. You said you wired the fans to only use high speed set up. My suggestion would be wire your controller to run the low speed (through the thermo resistor in the lower right of the Contour fan shroud). This is all you will need. Then for back up, wire the high speed through a 70A relay on a toggle switch. Low speed will keep your car cool and high speed will be available should a failure of your controller happen. I have a dual temp switch to control both high and low, but high NEVER comes on in 3 years of driving.
Another question on your fan controller temp sensor, where is it located to read temperature? In engine or between discharge of rad and water pump?
Another thought on the Contour fans. You said you wired the fans to only use high speed set up. My suggestion would be wire your controller to run the low speed (through the thermo resistor in the lower right of the Contour fan shroud). This is all you will need. Then for back up, wire the high speed through a 70A relay on a toggle switch. Low speed will keep your car cool and high speed will be available should a failure of your controller happen. I have a dual temp switch to control both high and low, but high NEVER comes on in 3 years of driving.
Another question on your fan controller temp sensor, where is it located to read temperature? In engine or between discharge of rad and water pump?
In a perfect world the perfect operating temp is 212 degrees