Engine Swap Questions

94stangfan

94stangfan

Member
Feb 23, 2003
290
2
19
Indianapolis, IN
#1
My 95 is about ready to bite it in terms of engine. It is starting to lose oil pressure now and it sounds like it has a knock around 3000 rpm. I think it is about time to change the engine.

So instead of putting the same stock engine in it, I was thinking about putting an explorer engine in there.

What year of explorer would work, and which one would be best for this? I think 96 but want to get some sort of validation on it. (I have read that the GT40 heads were on the explorer until 2001, but I don't know if they are all compatible)

Second Question: What are some gotchas or parts that would need to be purchased to make this conversion. I know the valve springs will need to be changed and also the cam, but that is about all I know.

I have read that because the explorer has the gt40 heads that the stock headers may not fit right. Is there any validity to this? If so, what is a good header that would work, and what is the likeliness that I can find the parts in a junk yard?

Thanks everyone.
 

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#2
Ok, I have been digging and digging trying to find the answers to these questins. Here is what I have found out so far...

Years that will work 96-01 Explorer.

In this year range, they made GT40 and GT40p heads.

96-Early97 = GT40
Early 97 - 01 = GT40p

If you get the GT40 heads, the stock headers will bolt up and you won't have any issues with your spark plugs.

If you get the GT40p heads, The headers will bolt up, but you will have problems with your spark plug location and being able to change them. It also requires that you use a 90 degree angle on the plug wire to make it fit.

I started digging into what I have to do to make the heads work. This doesn't seam very detailed unless you buy the trick flow spring kit. I hate paying for a name brand. These kits are about $150. A set of normal GT springs cost around $50. Do you need everything in the kit, or just the springs?

Thanks,

Keith
 
#3
Some of the things I have found that would be needed to do this conversion:

1. New valve springs - Trick Flow makes a kit, but I am not sure if that is the only one.
2. Cam Replacement - Going to use stock cam out of mine
3. New throttlebody elbow adapter - This is a 45 degree adapter to allow you to connect your throttle body
4. swap oil pans - GT oil pan is different than the explorer.

If you would like to add to this list, please feel free to do so.
 
#4
Yes, new springs are a good idea, but unless you're going with an aggressive cam profile I'd stick with the springs that are already on the heads. The springs will handle your stock came just fine. I've seen people use E cams and B cams with the stock springs and have no issues.. It becomes a major issue if you're spinning your motor hard and it see track/drag strip action. If that's your plans then yes, swap in the new springs.

Basically, everything you'll need is right there on your motor, you just need to swap it all over to the Explorer long block. You will need the elbow adapater, the Professional Products ones are nice and they cost half what the other brands do. The timing cover on the explorer motor is the same as ours so you can save yours for a spare or sell it.

I'd say use this as an opportunity to replace as many seals and gaskets as you can. Also replace the water pump and you'll need a new harmonic balancer too. The one on your car, if it hasn't been changed recently, is probably on it's way out by now. Don't forget to calculate all the little stupid things like gaskets, RTV sealant, tool rentals, etc.
 
#5
Here are the parts that I plan to replace in the engine. After talking with my Neighbor(NikwoaC) he recommended the following: (I am listing part numbers and costs for those that come after me to have something to reference if they are doing the same thing.)

Full Gasket set (KS2371) - Might as well catch any leaks before they happen or fix them before it goes in. (Felpro from autozone $73)

Head Bolt set (ES72155) - (need 2 actually) Since we are replacing the head gaskets and these are stretch bolts, gotta replace them. ($40 - 2 x 20 from autozone)

Oil pump (M-68) - may not be bad, but I don't want to pull it to put a new one in over a $22 part ($22 from autozone)

Oil Pump shaft (ARP 154-7904)- (can get stock one for $5 from autozone, but I am electing for an ARP shaft $17 from summit)

Intake adapter elbow (PP-54151) - required for conversion ($60 from Late Model Restoration)

spring kit (TFS-2500100)- trying to determine if stock mustang springs will work or go with the trick flow kit. ($150 from Late Model Restoration

Outside of the engine stuff, I am going to get a shift kit (PAI-45416) for that horrible Auto transmission. ($80 from Late Model Restoration)

This totals about $450 + cost of engine + fluids and other misc breakage like hose clamps and whatnot.
 
#6
I would say you definitely need new springs. They are designed for a truck cam that is designed for low end grunt/torque and have proven to be not even up to snuff on a stock cam. If your car is a grocery getter they may get the job done, but 150 is cheap insurance that you wont fubar your heads/pistons. Trick Flow springs are suggested as they are about the cheapest you can order online, but there is a lot of reading material that suggests they are not the best quality and have caused problems on some builds. When I had my gt40s cleaned up I had the shop installed new springs, guides, and keepers to match my cam. Not sure what brand they were, but I know they werent trick flow. Total cost to get the heads re-done was around 300 dollars.

A new oil pump is a great idea. I have yet to go through an explorer motor that wasnt sludged up. People that have SUVs somehow think they dont have to change their oil anymore.

Unless you want to use the remote oil filter system that the explorer block has you will need to order the threaded adapter to screw into the block so you can run a filter.

Not sure if the explorer uses the same timing cover as the SN car so you may have to swap that over. While you are in there if your engine has high mileage I would for peace of mind buy a new timing chain as well.

Like mentioned earlier new water pump and harmonic balancer,
 
#7
The timing covers are interchangeable. And I've yet to see an explorer engine that wasn't clean as a whistle! I have a short block from a 97 explorer sitting in my shop and it's probably the cleanest motor I've ever had the privilege of disassembling! Same goes for the few I've robbed the heads and intake off of in the years past.
 
#8
Maybe I've just had no luck. I've torn down several and the gunk that came out tried to crawl across the garage floor and hide in a corner.
 
#9
The oil pump actually comes with a factory replacement shaft. I still have a nice Pioneer balancer if you are interested. It will still cost more than a factory replacement.

Kurt
 
#12
You can find a 96 engine fairly cheap. I had one shipped to my door for $500 with a 90 day guarantee. When you do go through with it be prepared for the front ds intake bolt to break, I cant think of how many 5.0s I have worked on that had that exact bolt break. Also a small piece that held me up on the swap was the fact the block to oil filter adapter would not come out of my stock block, no one sells that piece anywhere, so I ended up making the explorer oil cooler work. Just a couple little things that seem small but caused alot of grief when I was a mere couple hours from startup.
 
#14
If you're careful and take your time, you can remove that bolt without breaking it. Most people are in a hurry and just try to man handle it off!

Anyway, I don't really see the need to pull the lower intake anyway, unless I missed something. They make tools to hold your lifters up off the cam so you can replace it without removing the lower intake.
 
#18
I bought my engine today.

now it is going to be time to order the parts to make this work. I picked up a 96 Explorer engine with 96k miles. It lookes pretty clean in terms of gunk in the heads and no real oil build up on the block at all.

I do have a question though. (this is probably me just being too cheap on this, but I wanted to get an unbiased opinion)

I can order a set of the Edlebrock valve springs (only comes with springs) for about $60. Do I need all the other stuff that comes in the trick flow kit? I am already getting valve seals in my engine gasket set, so that isn't a big deal.

Does everyone recommend the TrickFlow kit?

Thanks,

Keith
 
#19
Updated Parts list

For all those that are keeping score/checking which parts need to be changed when doing this conversion, I am adding an updated parts list of everything that I have ordered since buying the engine.

The following parts I ordered from Late Model Restoration
  • Oil Filter Bung - LRS-6890A (needed because of 90 degree oil filter from explorer)
    I found this part at Late Model Restoration and it shipped faster than the ebay one. Add to that since I was already ordering parts from them, I took advantage of the flat rate shipping. 7.99
  • Professional Products Intake Adapter - PP-54151
    It can be found at some more obscure websites for $60 but I ordered from LMR for $64.99 and saved with the flat rate shipping.
  • Trick Flow Valve Spring Kit - TFS-2500100
    I was looking for cheaper alternatives to this, but couldn't find any really. I called Comp cams and they recommended replacing the springs, locks, and retainers. Once you add up the prices for these, this is your cheapest option and it comes recommended by several people. $149.99

The following parts were ordered from Advance Auto Parts (online) I used this for these parts because Advance Auto Parts has all kinds of coupon codes that you can use to do online orders. It will allow for ship to home or ship to store as well. I will list the list price and price after coupon to show the savings. Based on my orders, I saved about 40% off the Advance Auto price. This was the cheapest way I could accomplish this.
  • GMB Water Pump - 125-1960 (lifetime warranty)
    Before Coupon code: 62.99 After coupon code: 41.91
  • Sealed Power Timing Set - KT3-163SA1
    Before coupon code: 27.99 After coupon code: 18.63
  • Melling Oil Pump - m-68
    before coupon code: 21.99 After coupon code: 13.36
  • Melling Oil Pump Shaft - IS-68
    before coupon code: 5.99 After coupon code: 3.64
  • Felpro Full Gasket Kit - KS 2371
    before coupon code: 73.99 After coupon code: 44.97

For those on a budget (aren't we all?), you will be best served to scour the internet looking for these coupon codes. I saved quite a bit doing it. There are several different combinations you can use to figure out which one gives you the best deal and whatnot. Right now I am about $70 under what I was thinking it was going to cost for the parts and I have an additional 2 oil filters and a valve spring tool that I ordered calculated into this.

Most of my parts will be here by friday. I will post an update after that.
 
#20
i would definitely go with 97+

And I would go ahead and pop in a cam while you are in there and replace the timing chain AND balancer. If you use yoru stock cam, use crane cobra 1.7 RRs and a retard your stock cam by 2 degrees.

The explorer lower is Crap, but the upper is GREAT. either buy a gt40 lower or have your lower ported by tmoss. Do it right now and spend the extra 500 dollars while you are in there and it could make a 30-50 HP difference.

My car ran amazingly well.

Just think, the only difference in my setup and the one you are planning is the intake manifold and the cam and a tiny bit of home porting. The explorer intake will actually work best with these heads with the properly flowing lower...better than my typhoon.
 
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