Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

After alot......... of grinding the new pulley is on......

I want to drive it but I have a header leaking...... then my fmu started leaking..... WTF?

The Teflon paste I used keeps getting ate up and pushes out of the threads.... ideas?
 
Red lock tight...... done.

OK took her for a spin it just finished raining......
3rd gear pull from 2000rpm. Lost the tires at 60mph.

Saw 4-5 # of boost with the small pulley. I need to re-adjust things with the tune...
Seeing 12.5afr at idle
12.5-13.5 under boost???
WTF?
I don't get why the idle afr changed at idle from 14 to 12.5 ........ I need to check the headers and see if they are tight that could skew the reading.

Any other things to look for?
Didn't touch the timing still set 10*
 
I just hooked up today a msd 6200a for more spark, it's now in junction with my vortech btm boost timing control box. I'm running max 6# boost with 19# injectors and stock maf. Upgraded aluminum heads and intake. This should keep my fuses from popping(head gaskets) while also giving me awesome spark to 3000 rpm.

I suggest a boost retard of some kind if you don't get a tune before you go stomping the pedal!!!

:burnout:
 
Nah I just fake it till I make it.:p

This whole custom m90 build is out of money... lol the 2.4" pulley broke my piggy bank.

Maybe I will get a real tune done just to make sure I don't blow it the :leghump: up. Ramsey performance down here in Lutz FL is supposed to be one of the best tuners out there, but damn man 150$ just to strap the car down! Then 150 an hour...... :nonono:
 
Vacuum loss at idle is causing the rich condition I think, at 1k I'm pulling 20# of vacuum at 800 I only have13# of vacuum. Pulled 3* of timing from it and idle is way worse rich condition got worse I need a btm so I can run extra timing at idle ( set base to 14* ) and have it pull 2 degrees per lbs of boost..... maybe

Or just buy the mega squirt it's only 200 more than a 6al-2
 
Definitely rout your MAF and filter to the inner fender. The blower and engine are producing enough heat.....no sense sucking it in from a hot source to boot.

Remind me again....what are you using for MAF injectors?

From the research I've done, it seems 24lb/hr injectors are about as big as you can go without starting to see issues with idle and low speed drivability. I'm running 30's in my N/A set up and even I am having issues. Thought for the longest time that the injectors were causing my car to run rich, but when I installed my wide band, I noticed the opposite to be true. Cruise and WOT is just fine, but idle is right off the board lean (above 20:1) and light cruise is in the 17.5:1 range. Just picked up a Moates Quarterhorse to tune with. When things get settled with my move, I'm gonna tinker with it and see just how powerful a tuning advice.

The Megasquirt is nice....but pricey. The one nice thing about using it, is that you're able to do away with the MAF meter altogether if you'd like.....which can really remove a tuning obstacle.
 
30lb injectors with a 90mm Lmaf... injectors are off of a new 5.0
I see 17-20 afr cold start idle
Once hot the afr moves between 13.3-14.5

When I pulled timing out I saw 12.5 before leaning it out.
 
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From what I just read on DIY tuning.Com my warm idle is about right 14.7 is what you want but a lope cam can cause a afr in the 13's..... maybe I should readjust my fuel a bit and take her for a drive.

I am going to move the filter to the fender it only makes sense.
 
Definitely rout your MAF and filter to the inner fender. The blower and engine are producing enough heat.....no sense sucking it in from a hot source to boot.

Remind me again....what are you using for MAF injectors?

From the research I've done, it seems 24lb/hr injectors are about as big as you can go without starting to see issues with idle and low speed drivability. I'm running 30's in my N/A set up and even I am having issues. Thought for the longest time that the injectors were causing my car to run rich, but when I installed my wide band, I noticed the opposite to be true. Cruise and WOT is just fine, but idle is right off the board lean (above 20:1) and light cruise is in the 17.5:1 range. Just picked up a Moates Quarterhorse to tune with. When things get settled with my move, I'm gonna tinker with it and see just how powerful a tuning advice.

The Megasquirt is nice....but pricey. The one nice thing about using it, is that you're able to do away with the MAF meter altogether if you'd like.....which can really remove a tuning obstacle.


I think it's worse than that:

90mm LMAF
30# injectors
previous tune
--plus--
FMU <=] I saw this piece up there. No idea what ratio this FMU is or even needs to be with 30# injectors.
Not sure what it is we're using to read AFR
Pretty good chance there's a vac leak somewhere too
 
8:1 fmu for 30lbers.
Innovate mtx-l wide band
I have checked for vacation leaks everywhere. All surfaces were planed before assembly and high tack was used to help seal it all up.
Still running hot, runs fat at cruise and lean at wot.
I will first move the maf to the fender area then retest.
I plan on building my own ms system it's 450$ and comes with all tuning software. From what I have looked up a moates quarter horse will cost about the same after you buy software....... unless someone has the hookup.
 
8:1 fmu for 30lbers.
Innovate mtx-l wide band
I have checked for vacation leaks everywhere. All surfaces were planed before assembly and high tack was used to help seal it all up.
Still running hot, runs fat at cruise and lean at wot.
I will first move the maf to the fender area then retest.
I plan on building my own ms system it's 450$ and comes with all tuning software. From what I have looked up a moates quarter horse will cost about the same after you buy software....... unless someone has the hookup.


You will need to tune for cruise/idle and alter/change diaphragms in the FMU for WOT. If diaphragm causes rich condition at WOT (or when bypass is closed) then you can adjust by installing an orifice between the FMU and vacuum source.
 
OK I will order the vortec kit then it comes with multiple discs.


You may very well have the correct disk installed now. You will not know for sure until you get cruise/idle at stoich or at least between 12.0 and 14.7.

I have a sneaking suspicion that with nothing more than an elevation is pressure at fuel regulator, that you can get that thing into tune without an FMU. Particularly if your oversize in-tank fuel pump is of the high pressure variety.

This is really the long way around getting things in line though. For really really truly? Ditch the FMU and the 30's for a set of 42's and a tune. I can not imagine a reason why I would put more money into an FMU setup when that money can be spent getting a tune and correctly sized injectors for the entire task of the power plant.

What does this kit cost that you're talking about? Is it just diaphragms?