Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

#162
And that 2# was glancing down at it while the top of third came up fast..... 30-90 mph in 3rd from 1200-5700rpm does not take that long anymore! And my cam is a 2500-5500 cam so the fact that it pulls at low rpm is awesome!
 
#164
stang89bidges said:
It's ribbed right? And it's wrapped around the pulley like a V shape right? V shape meaning its wrapped around pulley touching more than half of the surface area? I think you will be fine.
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Cool then it shall be ordered tonight sir! And probably a Bosch bypass too that way I have 2.75" of effective bypass diameter and the Bosch will be after the intercooler.
 
#165
a91what said:
So I found a very good calculation for drive ratio for the supercharger
((25.58*90*(drive ratio)/cid-14.7))
My math says that with a 2.2" pulley I should see 5.6 psi.
Then if later I need more (and water meth)
Then I can add a 6.5" crank pulley off a 5.0 f150. That will bring my ratio too 2.95.... making 7.5 psi.
Or I can go big and do a 1.9" and the crank and get 11 psi lol I don't think that's doable with an fmu. 108# of fuel pressureo_O

I am ordering the 2.2 unless there are objections........
My current ratio 2.9 comes out to 1.1 psi.... pretty accurate math there!:D
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Go with the big pulley right off the bat. I ran a 2.5" 8-rib pulley set up on my 4.6L and it slipped like a mofo when shifting into high gear. Had to run a couple of shots of "sticky stuff" spray adhesive on the belt to keep it from slipping. Big pulley = more traction on the belt.

For what it's worth, your boost levels are all going to depend on how restrictive your top end is. With my stock 6.85" crank pulley and 2.5" blower pulley I was seeing 9-10psi from my blower consistently with 281cid.
 
#169
It's all good.

Ordered the 2.4" pulley 6 rib hopefully I can get that to line up I'm using the inside 6 on the 8 rib pulley that's on it now. I have also found a 6.5" crank pulley off of a f150 it's 45$ tho...... bet I can jy that suckered for cheaper....

With both those I'm looking at 6.7 psi...... give or take.....

I have about 180* of belt wrap on the SC pulley more when I gas it, the tensioner springs tward the sc increasing belt wrap.

On that note I have to "adjust" the tensioner bracket downward the pulley is skewed off to one side and it's making the belt ride on the edge of the pulley...... I plan to "adjust" it with a BFH.... there is no way I'm taking half the motor dress apart to cut/grind/weld.... so I found a 5 pound sledge in my work truck.o_O

Got the car to idle down to 700-800 rpm today and let it run for 20 mins... sat at 150* on the mechanical gauge (reading off back of intake) that's a 60* drop from previous, the 10% coolant really does work. Ambient temp was 90* here today.:nice:
 
#177
a91what said:
That ignition box looks like what I need..

The MS system is cool but it will require learning all the specifics and the learning curve required.
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Wait... What I miss? You do not need a multi-spark ignition system (if that's where this is going). It may help a little on the bottom but it won't help for anything over 3000 rpm in most cases. It'll fire like a champ through the school zones though.

What symptom are you trying to cure?
 
#179
Ah.... Boost retard. Copy all.

Carry-on. :D


While I'm thinking about it though... The stock ignition is Grade A1 for boosted apps in my book. The only thing that I've ever added to one is a boost-a-spark (or equivalent). Something that keeps the ignition coil saturated at all times (even at night with the lights on). It makes a really hot, fat spark and it's adjustable (once you get this thing set, you never have to move it again).

The Pertronics Second Strike (I think is what it's called) also works really well. Just plan on replacing caps and rotors more often than usual.
 
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