How about you fix that?
Ok gents I have a question for those more knowlegable than myself...
The car idles strong but every now and then I get a low pop in the tail pipe. Seems to be running on all cylinders and happens once the car starts to come up to temp.
I am going to pull the plugs once have time and inspect them.
What does the doubled gasket do? I don't understand?Yes Mike I agree.
Not sure if actual puddling is happening but with both rear cylinders loading up and the fact that I as a shade tree mechanic designed this deal I have to assume I did something wrong. I choose to try this path rather than guess at least I will get another look into the intake.
I have read on it and even some manufacturers glue gaskets together....
Just to increase the thickness. I will first remove the intake then stack washers and test fit the manifold... when I find what thickness I need to get the port floors to line up I can order the gaskets. They make 1/16 1/8 3/16 gaskets for crazy prices.... or I can glue a couple stockers together..What does the doubled gasket do? I don't understand?
That is correct I am batch fire, if I had the ability to run sequential and time the injector I could work around this issue I think.So I know your coils are wasted spark, but are you still batch fueling or is it sequential? For some reason I seem to remember you're running the ms2 based pnp and not the ms3x?
1-6 3-5 7-4 2-8 are pairs for the coils.
I really think it has to do with the port wall. I'm not pulling the heads I will however hightack two gaskets together. What can go wrong?
Your thought on vacuum in the intake by cylinder has me thinking though. Once I have the blower off I can inspect the fitment again. It will only take a few mins to pull the blower I have the plenum off of it already.
Great tidbit of info there Mike I appreciate the idea. Now as far as reversion goes... how do I fix that.... injector angle is my bet..If there was a problem with fuel getting over that port floor mismatch, I'd think you'd see it on all of the rear cylinders. On a normally aspirated engine using a carb, the 4 outside corners are always lean, typically with 7/8 being the worst offenders. That little intake runner you have between ports is my bet on why you're seeing this. The injectors are close enough for reversion to suck some gas over into an adjacent cylinder,..depending on the spray angle,..you're also spraying fuel over at the other port as well. ( I'd bet an EV-6 pressurized to 43 pounds would just soak a cylinder in a heartbeat,...imagine what happens when two of them are both playing in the same sandbox.)
Windsors don't take kindly to trying to raise the intake..it forces you to hog out the bolt holes closer to the inside of the boss. As you raise the intake, that bolt moves inward towards the center. I don't know if you said it already, but how much of a mismatch are you dealing with here? I'd pull a Bob Glidden, and raise the intake manifold floor before I'd try to lower the port floor in the head ( port floors are never really messed with,...low velocity area)
If it wasn't for the meth,..I'd contact my old buddy JB, and I'd use that to raise the floor in the intake instead.
The problem is,..the meth...( it's always the meth)..JB don't like it. And it'll fail when exposed to it. That's why I went on the mad search to find an epoxy that tolerated it when I built my intake on the orange black drag car.
Back in the day, before monster injectors, I had to use two 160 lb-ers per cylinder. It left the intake so hacked up, I had to make rails to mount the injectors in much like a fuel rail that woul go on top. And,.....it left no room to completely weld the stuff together.
So I had to glue it.
I found some stuff out there,..and I think it's more commonplace now than it was then,..but the stuff I used that was tolerant of the high manifold pressures ( 30+ psi), temp fluctuation ( hot to freezing cold in an instant) meth fuel compatible, and it " flowed " easily ( think thicker por-15) and it had a certain degree of flexibility.
I got it online from GE aerospace. The guy sold me a small batch for 50 bucks,...( told me to wear gloves because once it got on something and dried,..it wouldn't come off ) and whatever I did,...don't get it in my eyes.
It took about 6 hours to dry, but once it did....Sht was stuck.
i used a piece of .030 aluminum as a mixing board....once that was dry, all that was left was a really thin layer that was residue from the application.
You couldn't beat it off. I smacked the piece of aluminum from behind trying to shock the metal, and create a large outward dent from behind.
It still stuck.
Dude said that they used this junk to glue on the re-entry tiles on the space shuttle or some sht like that...
It was good enough for me.
Bottom line,..try something like this to fix the port floor mismatch instead of grinding on the heads, or spacing the intake up.
I still think it's gonna be injector spray/reversion that is the prob here.
DIY has an add on module for the MS2 that will add two more injector drivers so you can do semi-sequential. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-upgrade-sequential-injection-kit/. Only 40 bucks and might be an easy fix for you.That is correct I am batch fire, if I had the ability to run sequential and time the injector I could work around this issue I think.
DIY has an add on module for the MS2 that will add two more injector drivers so you can do semi-sequential. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-upgrade-sequential-injection-kit/. Only 40 bucks and might be an easy fix for you.
i like that idea.
Edit: so much so that I just ordered it. I will give up my two spare outputs pt6 and pt7 to run the extra two injector circuits. This will let me fire the injectors with the wasted spark firing order.. I can even time the injector to the valve event. (Given I can figure out what that is.....)
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