Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

a91what said:

Did not have this issue before, I actually ran more pressure na at the regulator than I am right now.

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This causes me to wonder: Was your car digitally tuned while pressure at the regulator was this high?

If your tuner thought that this was where the fuel pressure needed to be for your injectors and motor combo, then you may be flat out of injector.

If it's true that previously, fuel pressure was elevated, the 8:1 diaphragm just became a 5:1 diaphragm with diminishing returns.

Ok... You are seeing the fuel pressure rise on the gauge when you get into the boost.

Is that a true statement?

I've got a couple of theories working around in my head but you'll have to verify them somehow;

1. You need to find a way to watch fuel pressure and boost rise. It's really the only way to ensure that the FMU is doing what it's supposed to do when it's supposed to do it. My thought here is that the diaphragm currently installed is not a high enough ratio.

2. Fuel pump can't handle the pressure: Could be a weak pump, it could be that power to the pump is falling off. If you're running a Walbro 190, I'd swap it. They have a tendency to bypass internally
2 65ish psi. If 255L or 255L High Pressure, I would pull voltages at the pump with lights and fan on then again with lights and fan off. Easy place to do this is at the relay under the seat. If the differences are significant then you may need something like a boost-a-pump to regulate voltage to the pump. If you're going with 42's then this should not be necessary.

3. Vac/boost gauge causing lean condition, if there is one.


That's all I got for now. Lemme know.

Bad part from supply is possible but not very likely IMO.

Power would be next thing to check. Check to see how much power dips while accessories are turned on and off. You'll need to override the pump motor via the connection at the firewall. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, JRichker has a pictorial diagram of it somewhere. I'll pull one up if you need it or can't find it.

Unless I'm missing something (not at all unlikely) this would be the last thing that we can really check without taking something apart and/or spending money.


Even though you have the correct diagram (the one indicated on paper) it doesn't rule out that it's not a large enough ratio. That I think, would be the next thing to look at BUT ONLY IF you're planning on skipping the 42's and tune.

Skip over any tuning system that is a TwEECer or even remotely like it in terms of user tuning. I consider myself to be a pretty tech savvy person. To make a really long story short, all I wanted to do was set that POS on-top of a fence post and shoot it till I was out of bullets. The hardware is all very first gen and the software is the geek project of a group of guys who swear it's the greatest thing on the planet. If you want a another effin hobby. Buy a TwEECer.

After that experience, I had it chip tuned on a real dyno, by a real tuner who had specific experience with the equipment he was using (these are ALL qualities that I did not possess). I gave the man my $500+ and drove that mofo all the way home (2 hour drive by sane people) giggling like a bich who just smoked pot for the first time.

Since then, I've used an Anderson PMS on a couple of different cars. Pretty simple beast. That is all.

These other guys will have to get you about MOATS and QH, and all the others. Different features, different abilities, different ways of doing things. Some are verynice and a lot more advanced than the two systems that I've used.

a91what said:

My fpg needle bounces around ALOT..... it's an ford racing gauge. Is this normal?

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I have Kenne Bell gauges (no idea who actually makes them) and it does not bounce... ever. I wish all my gauges were as nice.

Is yours electric or direct read?

a91what said:

Direct, mechanical straight from Schrader valve
Its not liquid filled tho.

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Ok... slightly different animal but a very similar fix unless the gauge is actually bad.

Put a flow restriction in-line with your gauge. Hell, there's a ton of things I can think to try. I usually start with a plug of some kind that fits the vacuum line well and drill the smallest whole in it that I have a bit for. If gauge response is too sluggish, I drill it out the next size larger until I'm happy with it.

a91what said:

No vacuum lines on a fuel rail.......

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