Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

I woke up this morning and took the wife out to breakfast at IHOP, if you haven't had some of there new pancakes they are pretty good. From there we shot over to JR @karthief place, we traded some parts I got all the brackets and bolts I need and he got a MM strut tower brace.
I spent my afternoon cleaning and sandblasting those parts, then I used some paint .
20170604_175715.jpg
looking good.
Now to remove old stuff and install these. I'm torn however my pressure line on the current power steering pump leaks.... will I need a new pump if I replace the line?
 
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What? You didn't invite me to breakfast? And I slaved for 20 minutes over a cold, heartless engine to get you all those greasy, worn out, nasty nuts and bolts with a bracket and all you gave me was a fancy strut tower brace thats far too nice to put on my crap!
How dare you sir!

Thank you very much. :banana:
 
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I woke up this morning and took the wife out to breakfast at IHOP, if you haven't had some of there new pancakes they are pretty good. From there we shot over to JR @karthief place, we traded some parts I got all the brackets and bolts I need and he got a MM strut tower brace.
I spent my afternoon cleaning and sandblasting those parts, then I used some paint .
20170604_175715.jpg
looking good.
Now to remove old stuff and install these. I'm torn however my pressure line on the current power steering pump leaks.... will I need a new pump if I replace the line?
I wouldn't think you would need a new pump just to change the lines. I've changed a few with no trouble-but I do highly recommend the Lucas power steering additive. Makes old pumps work/sound like new. Makes reman pumps quite and stay quite and bought me two more years on a leaky rack replacement lol.
Honestly -is @karthief 's fox as ugly as he says? lol
 
The body on the car looks really good but needs paint. The engine however has anywhere from 800-1300$ worth of boltons...... he has a sweet tubular gt40 intake I'd kill for.
I had to keep my water pistol pointed at him the whole time he was here. Eyeball'n my intake like it was a pretty girl in a bikini
 
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Got the blower in the mail today! It's a lot bigger than the last one. I will also have to make a few adapter plates, one for the TB and another for the plenum. I will post pics of it in the engine bay if it ever stops raining.
 
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Here is a pic of the monster in the engine bay. Couldn't do too much messing around the rain wouldn't stop. Looks like I may have to do the edis8 swap and center mount this thing, there may not be another way. I am however going to peruse options, if I was to "modify" the valve cover with a hammer the blower would clear the hood.
20170605_171538.jpg
 
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Here is a pic of the monster in the engine bay. Couldn't do too much messing around the rain wouldn't stop. Looks like I may have to do the edis8 swap and center mount this thing, there may not be another way. I am however going to peruse options, if I was to "modify" the valve cover with a hammer the blower would clear the hood.
20170605_171538.jpg
Is that the actual discharge hole?....
Why not just do as you say, and take that intake manifold to a machinist, and have them mill the top of the intake manifold clean off, and dump the distributor in favor of EDIS?
Then get a 1/2" thick plate and match that to the now hogged open intake.
I'd be glueing and bolting that plate to the intake...and because you may be using a meth based fuel/additive,...I'd use this:
4UK12_AS01?$zmmain$.jpg


The rated use for this junk is to hold nose-cones on in the aerospace industry...It should be good to hold a plate onto an intake manifold.
Whatever you do,....

Do NOT! Get this on your skin.
 
That's a great idea Mike and I may do just that, first I'm going to remove the distributor cap and the intake elbow. This way i can set the thing up there and see just how close it is to working/what kind of fab work I will need. Done correctly this thing should look and work nicely, I don't want the through the hood look.
 
That's a great idea Mike and I may do just that, first I'm going to remove the distributor cap and the intake elbow. This way i can set the thing up there and see just how close it is to working/what kind of fab work I will need. Done correctly this thing should look and work nicely, I don't want the through the hood look.
Well,......It's not like I didn't try to talk you into a turbocharger,...:rolleyes:

How close is that elbow to hitting the hood now? One way or the other,...It's probably gonna be taller than the existing combo. Don't you have some aftermarket hood on the car already?

It should only require a small crown at most,...It's not like it'll be all Blown Mafia or anything..
f94dddae861e2797758c7c013bef5809.jpg
 
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Well,......It's not like I didn't try to talk you into a turbocharger,...:rolleyes:

How close is that elbow to hitting the hood now? One way or the other,...It's probably gonna be taller than the existing combo. Don't you have some aftermarket hood on the car already?

It should only require a small crown at most,...It's not like it'll be all Blown Mafia or anything..
f94dddae861e2797758c7c013bef5809.jpg
That's probably the most beautiful mechanically ugly piece of sht I've seen in a while.
 
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Gonna take some serious doing and a different intake manifold.... based on some not so accurate measurements this thing needs to be 6"lower than it is in the picture.... only issue with that is it's a high rise intake, the runners would be nil.

20170606_163342.jpg
 
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Come on Steve.. You could build a lower intake out of steal or aluminum plate, thick enough not to warp or flex. The only hard part would be machining the holes for the intake bolts. They do go straight down square with the valley pan ridge. It would be a box with angles on the sides...with wiggly spots where the distributor hole is and the back. It would make mounting the blower easy too....just bolt it down and go. If you run EDIS the blower would sit lower than the factory intake.

The only complication I see is if you have to move the blower forward to reach the belt. Would be easier to have a longer shaft made at a machine shop with a couple support bearings. The coolant passages could be linked with braided mine and fittings...kinda complicated the box idea....but...anything can be done....with time...or money

I don't think that intake runner length is as important with a blower...but I would assume it would still need rounded edges to combat turbulence.

If you really used your genius skills I'm sure you could get an air to water cooler under there...then you could sell me a set up. :burnout:
 
The box idea would work if I was using blower that bolted down to an intake. This blower was designed to be mounted remote style, I have taken some measurements and it has a date with a band saw. Then I will see how well it fits over the passenger valve cover. I have a good idea what I need to do to make it happen, if this fails then I will simply get an explorer lower from the scrap yard and hack on it until I find a solution.
 
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The box idea would work if I was using blower that bolted down to an intake. This blower was designed to be mounted remote style, I have taken some measurements and it has a date with a band saw. Then I will see how well it fits over the passenger valve cover. I have a good idea what I need to do to make it happen, if this fails then I will simply get an explorer lower from the scrap yard and hack on it until I find a solution.

Nooo!!! You are adding another PITA obstacle to maintenance by standing that thing on its side and blocking off a valve cover. Your trading off one inacessible side of the engine for the other. I would freakin' shoot myself if I had to remove that blower to change a valvecover gasket.
The blower needs to be in the middle of the valve covers,..not hanging over one.

I'm with The sickfox...If you can weld, MAKE the intake manifold...I know a guy that made his out of exhaust tubing w/ a mig welder, and his intake works better than one he could buy.
Bolt the blower to the top plate and make the damn top plate removeable. Maybe a stock lower F.I manifold could be adapted,..
 
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Looking at the build over on corral it looks crazy expensive to do.

I should have just grabbed up some twin turbo manifolds... and used two small turbo.... Done right I could even tie them into my current exhaust system....

Oh well it IS supercharged...lol.

My idea Mike is to set the SC upside down on the valve cover. I am cutting the topside flat so it sits flush on the valve cover, this will add stability. It will have a support at the snout pulley and the hat will hold the back of it down. My plan is to use the existing hat and a carb venturi plate as the two flanges then build the intake plenum around/between them. This way in I can still get at the plugs easily and if I do need to get into the valve cover it's just four nuts a belt, intake pipe and throttle linkage that need to be removed.
The current setup took 3hrs to remove to get at the driver valve cover and plugs. So this would be a major improvement.

BTW this SC is the same one used to power a 363 build on corral that made over 600hp at the wheel through a glide.
 
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