Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

For those wondering what the he'll I was doing.....
20170628_170844.jpg
only 1/32 off my mark....
20170628_171142.jpg

This is what I'm after....

I will have to order an 4" 90* elbow and weld it on before I do the TB flange.
This sht just don't make no sense.....is there even enough room behind the engine to accommodate that bugle that feeds the blower? Why go so big when it all has to neck down to such a small cross section?

And isn't that 15 mile long pulley snout gonna require that you extend the front of the car to allow for the 10" pulley spacing that you're gonna have to add to get your belt aligned?

Cut that goofy looking funnel thing off of that plate, and Make a rectangular 90 out of 1/8" alum plate (like they do for custom intake manifolds) You'll of course have to weld the thing together, then when it's turned, you'll be able to adapt it back up to round w/ a silicone transition coupler.
 
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This sht just don't make no sense.....is there even enough room behind the engine to accommodate that bugle that feeds the blower? Why go so big when it all has to neck down to such a small cross section?
Cross section is as large as the 102mm tube it's just mushed down into an oval. It has not been trimmed yet it's just an extra piece of tubing that I shaped and welded on... (am I going to have to stop posting step by step and just give finished pics)

And isn't that 15 mile long pulley snout gonna require that you extend the front of the car to allow for the 10" pulley spacing that you're gonna have to add to get your belt aligned? Nope all measurements were done before making the plate. Once bolted on it will be aligned no dicking with it. Should be no taller than the a.c. compressor.....

Cut that goofy looking funnel thing off of that plate, and Make a rectangular 90 out of 1/8" alum plate (like they do for custom intake manifolds) You'll of course have to weld the thing together, then when it's turned, you'll be able to adapt it back up to round w/ a silicone transition coupler.
No can do I have to have the bypass that's formed into the factory flange. That's why I made it this way. It's still not even close to done.
 
This sht just don't make no sense.....is there even enough room behind the engine to accommodate that bugle that feeds the blower? Why go so big when it all has to neck down to such a small cross section?
Cross section is as large as the 102mm tube it's just mushed down into an oval. It has not been trimmed yet it's just an extra piece of tubing that I shaped and welded on... (am I going to have to stop posting step by step and just give finished pics)

And isn't that 15 mile long pulley snout gonna require that you extend the front of the car to allow for the 10" pulley spacing that you're gonna have to add to get your belt aligned? Nope all measurements were done before making the plate. Once bolted on it will be aligned no dicking with it. Should be no taller than the a.c. compressor.....

Cut that goofy looking funnel thing off of that plate, and Make a rectangular 90 out of 1/8" alum plate (like they do for custom intake manifolds) You'll of course have to weld the thing together, then when it's turned, you'll be able to adapt it back up to round w/ a silicone transition coupler.
No can do I have to have the bypass that's formed into the factory flange. That's why I made it this way. It's still not even close to done.
Ok,....you know best.

I used to show progress pics, then everybody would ask me "why didn't you do?".... questions like I asked you.

I don't show progress pics anymore.....otherwise I'd still be changing junk that Raggedy @RaggedGT wondered about.

That's why there are no more garage pics...
 
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Ok,....you know best.

I used to show progress pics, then everybody would ask me "why didn't you do?".... questions like I asked you.

I don't show progress pics anymore.....otherwise I'd still be changing junk that Raggedy @RaggedGT wondered about.

That's why there are no more garage pics...
Lol it's cool if you hadn't questioned I wouldn't have bolted all this chit together to find out that the bypass solenoid (vacuum actuator) is too tall and will hit the plate..... figures. Things still have time to change and as all these things do there will be problems. Making my own flange is not out of the question, I have the 1/2 plate to make a flange with if necessary.

Now I am sitting here staring at the bypass wondering how the :leghump: I'm going to make it work..... how I envy turbo simplicity
 
After some measuring Mike the blower pulley is lower than the a.c. compressor pulley by about an inch. I could alleviate my bypass issue by making a 1" spacer but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money on aluminum.... I measured up my carb pad and unfortunately the bolts do not matchup close enough... That would have been to convenient I suppose.

If i do make a new intake tract and toss the tube version out I could use the mini Cooper bypass from the last project.
 
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@madmike1157 I measured it all up before work. I would need to make a 1.5-2" spacer for the blower in order to make the bypass fit. Now there is still the option of modifying the bypass actuator itself but the likelihood of it never working again is pretty good....

I wonder how much pressure one of those phenolic spacers can handle......
 
@madmike1157 I measured it all up before work. I would need to make a 1.5-2" spacer for the blower in order to make the bypass fit. Now there is still the option of modifying the bypass actuator itself but the likelihood of it never working again is pretty good....

I wonder how much pressure one of those phenolic spacers can handle......
If you're talking about having to add height to the blower.....(Aren't we now gonna have to stick the blower through the hood?)
But before you go on about modifying this, or raising that,.....let's discuss this for a minute...

Firstly,....How is an Eaton blower different from any other "roots type" blower? Isn't there just two rotors cut on a helix pattern spinning to squish air that comes in fat in one hole, and all squished going out the other?

Like this Weiand 174 for example....

wnd-77-174fsb-1_xl.jpg


Show me where the "blower bypass" is on this thing.

There isn't one.

Now,....Why can't you just rig an inlet into the hole on the end to feed the blower of your Eaton like this one where the big hole is on top,..and let that dog eat? If there has to be some sort of mechanical blower bypass for some stupid reason why cant you just get either a waste gate or a BOV and run a hose to it off of some threaded fitting on a plate bolted to the end?

GMC blowers have "blow out plugs" that act as a backfire safety precaution,....I'm thinking "Blow off valve" will do the exact same thing...(for about 50 chinee dollah american round eye) If it's for this reason you need all that crap,..then all you need is one of those,...otherwise, I thought boost was a product of how fast you spin the impellers....and not through some sort of restriction like a turbo....

Next, How in the hell are you gonna get fuel injectors mounted on the remaining intake runner that isn't covered by this fat little phcker? When I looked at your pics, all I saw was 1/2" thick plate covering the entire intake manifold......
 
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And will karthief ever clean out his garage
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If you're talking about having to add height to the blower.....(Aren't we now gonna have to stick the blower through the hood?)
But before you go on about modifying this, or raising that,.....let's discuss this for a minute...
As it sits right now the thing will barely come above the valve covers. It's actually shorter than the high rise intake, I Will measure this out after work.

Firstly,....How is an Eaton blower different from any other "roots type" blower? Isn't there just two rotors cut on a helix pattern spinning to squish air that comes in fat in one hole, and all squished going out the other?

Like this Weiand 174 for example....

wnd-77-174fsb-1_xl.jpg


Show me where the "blower bypass" is on this thing.

There isn't one.

Now,....Why can't you just rig an inlet into the hole on the end to feed the blower of your Eaton like this one where the big hole is on top,..and let that dog eat? If there has to be some sort of mechanical blower bypass for some stupid reason why cant you just get either a waste gate or a BOV and run a hose to it off of some threaded fitting on a plate bolted to the end?

GMC blowers have "blow out plugs" that act as a backfire safety precaution,....I'm thinking "Blow off valve" will do the exact same thing...(for about 50 chinee dollah american round eye) If it's for this reason you need all that crap,..then all you need is one of those,...otherwise, I thought boost was a product of how fast you spin the impellers....and not through some sort of restriction like a turbo....
Yes it is a roots blower, however Eaton decided it was necessary to install a bypass between the outlet and inlet of the blower to recirculate air at idle and cruise. The purpose is to reduce noise, rotor wear, and excessive intake temperatures. Remember how loud my m90 was before adding that stupid looking tube, that is/was a bypass. The bypass is wide open under vacuum and closes when you nail the throttle.
Next, How in the hell are you gonna get fuel injectors mounted on the remaining intake runner that isn't covered by this fat little phcker? When I looked at your pics, all I saw was 1/2" thick plate covering the entire intake manifold......
That one will be tricky, the injectors will have to stand straight up, the plate has to be trimmed above the runners for the injector bosses. I will draw my thoughts for this on the plate and we can discuss further.
 
Yes it is a roots blower, however Eaton decided it was necessary to install a bypass between the outlet and inlet of the blower to recirculate air at idle and cruise. The purpose is to reduce noise, rotor wear, and excessive intake temperatures. Remember how loud my m90 was before adding that stupid looking tube, that is/was a bypass. The bypass is wide open under vacuum and closes when you nail the throttle.
Next, How in the hell are you gonna get fuel injectors mounted on the remaining intake runner that isn't covered by this fat little phcker? When I looked at your pics, all I saw was 1/2" thick plate covering the entire intake manifold......
That one will be tricky, the injectors will have to stand straight up, the plate has to be trimmed above the runners for the injector bosses. I will draw my thoughts for this on the plate and we can discuss further.

Just because they did it from the factory, doesn't necessarily mean that it needs to be so for you..
(I mean, after all,...Ford never intended to have solid roller lifters, a SBF timing gear set, or a SBF harmonic balancer on a 250 six banger),...But I do.
Putting water in the intake tract will reduce the intake temps, and you have that covered already. But if you just have to have that bypass, why cant you just relocate the whole stupid plate, make a new plate for the end cap that has hoses hooked to the factory plate w/ the bypass actuator on it, or something "creative" that doesn't force you to lift the whole blower up 2" ?
 
I just looked back at the pics of the other blower install that the other guy did that I linked you earlier. He raised the whole blower up because he ran that outlet of the thing out of the front, through an IC, then back in through the throttle body. He has adapted the mounting for the bypass, but is obviously using a ford spec'd blower to do his craziness.
 
Dammit.

I started shaping the tube for the TB flange. The welds cracked, I rewelded and shaped some more. They cracked again....

Friggin pot metal.... :fuss:

I'm tossing in the towel on this inlet, now the only thing I have to do is decide what grade aluminum sheet I want.