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Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

  • Thread starter Thread starter a91what
  • Start date Start date May 31, 2015
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    393 4r70w megasquirt ms3 ms3pro turbo watermeth injection
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a91what

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#161
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I am worried about belt slippage with that small of a pulley
 

a91what

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#162
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And that 2# was glancing down at it while the top of third came up fast..... 30-90 mph in 3rd from 1200-5700rpm does not take that long anymore! And my cam is a 2500-5500 cam so the fact that it pulls at low rpm is awesome!
 

stang89bidges

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#163
  • Sep 8, 2015
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It's ribbed right? And it's wrapped around the pulley like a V shape right? V shape meaning its wrapped around pulley touching more than half of the surface area? I think you will be fine.
 

a91what

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#164
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stang89bidges said:
It's ribbed right? And it's wrapped around the pulley like a V shape right? V shape meaning its wrapped around pulley touching more than half of the surface area? I think you will be fine.
Click to expand...
Cool then it shall be ordered tonight sir! And probably a Bosch bypass too that way I have 2.75" of effective bypass diameter and the Bosch will be after the intercooler.
 

Gearbanger 101

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#165
  • Sep 8, 2015
  • #165
a91what said:
So I found a very good calculation for drive ratio for the supercharger
((25.58*90*(drive ratio)/cid-14.7))
My math says that with a 2.2" pulley I should see 5.6 psi.
Then if later I need more (and water meth)
Then I can add a 6.5" crank pulley off a 5.0 f150. That will bring my ratio too 2.95.... making 7.5 psi.
Or I can go big and do a 1.9" and the crank and get 11 psi lol I don't think that's doable with an fmu. 108# of fuel pressure

I am ordering the 2.2 unless there are objections........
My current ratio 2.9 comes out to 1.1 psi.... pretty accurate math there!
Click to expand...
Go with the big pulley right off the bat. I ran a 2.5" 8-rib pulley set up on my 4.6L and it slipped like a mofo when shifting into high gear. Had to run a couple of shots of "sticky stuff" spray adhesive on the belt to keep it from slipping. Big pulley = more traction on the belt.

For what it's worth, your boost levels are all going to depend on how restrictive your top end is. With my stock 6.85" crank pulley and 2.5" blower pulley I was seeing 9-10psi from my blower consistently with 281cid.
 

a91what

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#166
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Hmm so what your saying is I should get the begged crank pulley now see what my boost lv is with it then get a SC pulley???

Makes sense. Damn 6 rib..
 

stang89bidges

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#167
  • Sep 9, 2015
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I think that makes sense if you found a larger crank pulley. Takes the worry out of belt slip.
 

stang89bidges

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#168
  • Sep 9, 2015
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Sounds contradicting to my earlier answer that you would be fine but let's face it, I'm no expert and GearBanger has more experience than me
 

a91what

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#169
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It's all good.

Ordered the 2.4" pulley 6 rib hopefully I can get that to line up I'm using the inside 6 on the 8 rib pulley that's on it now. I have also found a 6.5" crank pulley off of a f150 it's 45$ tho...... bet I can jy that suckered for cheaper....

With both those I'm looking at 6.7 psi...... give or take.....

I have about 180* of belt wrap on the SC pulley more when I gas it, the tensioner springs tward the sc increasing belt wrap.

On that note I have to "adjust" the tensioner bracket downward the pulley is skewed off to one side and it's making the belt ride on the edge of the pulley...... I plan to "adjust" it with a BFH.... there is no way I'm taking half the motor dress apart to cut/grind/weld.... so I found a 5 pound sledge in my work truck.

Got the car to idle down to 700-800 rpm today and let it run for 20 mins... sat at 150* on the mechanical gauge (reading off back of intake) that's a 60* drop from previous, the 10% coolant really does work. Ambient temp was 90* here today.
 

a91what

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#170
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.... do the videos explain things better??


Or do I just sound like an idiot.
 

Noobz347

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#171
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Can there be only one answer?
 

a91what

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#172
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Noobz347 said:
Can there be only one answer?
Click to expand...

Lol. Noted. I'll make more videos then, and you may laugh at or with me both are acceptable .

I can't wait for my pulleys! Is there a good way to pull them off without the special tool? I don't want to spend 100$ for one pulley change.....
 

stang89bidges

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#173
  • Sep 10, 2015
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a91what said:
It's all good.

Got the car to idle down to 700-800 rpm today and let it run for 20 mins... sat at 150* on the mechanical gauge (reading off back of intake) that's a 60* drop from previous, the 10% coolant really does work. Ambient temp was 90* here today.
Click to expand...


Sweet, good to know on the coolant drop. I'm surprised it dropped that much!
 

stang89bidges

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#174
  • Sep 10, 2015
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I wonder how low you can go on coolant before freezing in temps of 0* outside temps. 25% perhaps? I gotta check this out.
 

stang89bidges

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#175
  • Sep 12, 2015
  • #175
A good read: Vortech V3 SCi-Trim Supercharger Kit - Muscle Mustang & Fast Fords Magazine
 

a91what

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#176
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That ignition box looks like what I need..

The MS system is cool but it will require learning all the specifics and the learning curve required.
 

Noobz347

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#177
  • Sep 12, 2015
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a91what said:
That ignition box looks like what I need..

The MS system is cool but it will require learning all the specifics and the learning curve required.
Click to expand...


Wait... What I miss? You do not need a multi-spark ignition system (if that's where this is going). It may help a little on the bottom but it won't help for anything over 3000 rpm in most cases. It'll fire like a champ through the school zones though.

What symptom are you trying to cure?
 

a91what

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#178
  • Sep 12, 2015
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No symptoms, boost retard.

Just got my 2.4" pulley in the mail today.

(Unless I misunderstood what that box is capable of...)
 

Noobz347

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#179
  • Sep 12, 2015
  • #179
Ah.... Boost retard. Copy all.

Carry-on.


While I'm thinking about it though... The stock ignition is Grade A1 for boosted apps in my book. The only thing that I've ever added to one is a boost-a-spark (or equivalent). Something that keeps the ignition coil saturated at all times (even at night with the lights on). It makes a really hot, fat spark and it's adjustable (once you get this thing set, you never have to move it again).

The Pertronics Second Strike (I think is what it's called) also works really well. Just plan on replacing caps and rotors more often than usual.
 

a91what

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#180
  • Sep 12, 2015
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I'm just unsure what I need for the boost retard portion of this budiet build.....

Can I get away with just pulling a few degrees out of her??? Or will this affect me negatively in cruise/idle conditions?
 
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