EVR or EGR went out

[glowstang93]

I was driving home and noticed I lost power, was doing like 55 with less than 1 grand on the tach. Then the cel came on. Its acting very similar to when the EVR (egr control) went out. Thats that part behind the passenger side strut tower.

Is there a good way to check it or the egr to see what is causing it. Trying to save a buck by diagnosing it myself.

Also has anyone ever found an evr anyplace besides ford? What parts store?

Thanks in advance

 

[93 LX]

I got mine from the boneyard. Just take a vacuum pump with you to check the diaphram on the sensors and EGr its self. It could also be the EGR postion sensor too. Run the code and see what you get.

 

[jrichker]

You can do one of two things:
1.) Guess and throw parts at it in hopes of accidently finding the right thing.
2.) Use the built in tools that Ford designed into the computer to isolate faults in the system.

I suggest you use method #2...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

Do not jumper anything to the single black connector. It is the power for the under the hood light. It is in another bundle of wires near the windshield wiper.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[shootshescores]

EGR's & the accompanying sensor can both be purchased any any CSK auto stores. The EGR runs $106 and the EVP runs $43.

 

[glowstang93]

Thanks Joe!!

I pulled a code 223. Isn't that the code for the ICM (Ignition control Module)

From the link you posted 223 says:

223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems

Do you have any suggestions which part to try first?

 

[glowstang93]

After pulling the code 223, I disconnected one coil pack, one at a time while the engine was running. The front coil pack when unplugged made the engine stumble, so it appeared to be "good". The rear coil pack when unplugged made no difference when unplugged, so it appeared to be "bad" (not working).

Went to O'Reilly's got a free replacement, lifetime warranty. Started the engine, then plugged in the rear coil pack. Didn't see the engine roar to life, but it is not doing what it was doing when it dogged out on me. At idle when in gear it idles smoothly now, and the tach is showing correct rpms now. Power is back and all appears to be fine.

Could someone help me in how to clear the 223 code in computer so it will be reset for the next code if there is one.
Is it as simple as disconnecting the negative battery cable for 5 minutes?

Thanks in advance

 

[jrichker]

Remove the test jumper when the codes start to dump. That will clear the codes. Disconnecting the battery also works, but it also clears the "leaned" settings. Save that method for when you replace a sensor.

 

[glowstang93]

Thanks, that worked perfectly clearing the codes.

I never would have tried to even pull the codes with a jumper wire and the cel, but after doing your actuator retrofit, I'm game to follow your advise and instructions to the tee.