Fan and Radiator

z9_87

New Member
Apr 16, 2004
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Urbana, IL
My car does okay for cooling but on long trips the factory temp sens gets about 1/2 way. I'm using the origonal 86 radiator and a smaller elec fan. What would you suggest for a new radiator and fan keeping in mind that I need a skinny fan - wp clearance issues. Also I need the radiator to have stock dimensions or it wont fit either.

Also a Howto install mech temp gauge and oil press gauge. Those two gauges seem off to me. And possibly 1 more recommended gauge.

Thx
 
Zach, for the rad, do you see hot ambient temps? A 3 core HD GDI from the parts store is almost a drop in (gotta mess with the upper mount, etc) but it might be real close to plug and play. Transgo's site has the depth dimensions if that helps you.
Wait, is the stock T-bird rad different size than a stang? If so, forget what I said.

OP gauge: to retain the stocker, install a Tee on the hex tube above the filter. Stock is 1/4" NPT and most aftermarket senders are 1/8" NPT, so a couple adapters are required. All can be had from the home store.

Water temp: I put the good gauge in the stock location and then relocated the stocker to the rear plug on the lower intake (driver side). The rear port is less acurate so the stocker works there. No biggie.
One could also use a t-stat with a bung in it - I would put the stocker there and the good gauge in the stock location.

Is your voltmeter decent? do you want a vac gauge? I have one on the SD 88, but since you are not SD maybe you dont want one. LOL.

Good luck bud.
 
Thx, for the info... I did some custom fabrication to make the stock stang radiator fit because the tbird radiator is very small. The stock voltmeter works very well. I was thinking of a vac gauge just so I could raise my mpg, but it's not really necessary, but fun to play with to.
 
z9_87 said:
Ordered a mech temp and mech oil press gauges. Where would you suggest running the lines through?
For mech temp, I was lazy and cut an X in the steering shaft boot. That works if you dont have a large hole in the firewall and dont want to cut one (I did not even have a stepped drill bit available when I did the install). The sender bulb can be pretty.... well, bulbous. :D

You might have a hole in the firewall for the clutch actuation linkage - that was what I used on the 94 for the sender. Worked well.

For the OP line, that might work well too. If you use a separate hole, what I like to do is sheath the nylon line (if you use it) with rubber vac line. It provides protection, helps keep the line from kinking, and might help contain an oil leak if the line gets a little split. Where it goes through the firewall, be sure to use a rubber grommet.

Let me know if I missed something you were lookin for. Good luck Zach.
 
I get large ones like that at the hardware store in all the bins of bolts and stuff (you know, where they have like left hand thread bolts, metric fasteners, etc)...

You could get creative with the grommet idea too (I mentioned it as a reminder to do something, rather than specifically a grommet if that is a problem). In a pinch, I have wrapped stuff in tape where it passes through the firewall or used a piece of rubber hose and a grommet of sorts.

Good luck bud.