Fiberglass Hood -- to pin or not to pin...

Takt

Member
Jul 14, 2004
48
0
6
Madison, WI
I've been told by a buddy that if you get a fiberglass hood, you shouldn't use hinges to open and close --- rather you should use 4 pins to keep it closed.

Could I have your opinion on this please? Also, if the 4 pins are the way to go, does anyone have pictures of how it looks? Is there anyother way to do it?

Here's my scenerio -- I've decided to put a dual quad intake and carb combination on my car with a classic scoop. While I like the way it looks ... I'm a little concerned about cutting a hole in my stock hood until I'm sure it is what I want. I've been told that a fiberglass hood may be the way I should go -- then the discussion started with the pins vs hinges.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the opinions.
 
Hinges arent the problem, it's how heavy your springs are.

Id run hinges and either no springs and a prop rod, or the lightest springs you can find where you open the hood and it holds.
I found a perfect set at home depot that hold my hood up and dont stress the fiberglass while closing.
 
I'm using stock hinges with no springs, along with a prop rod setup I got from the junkyard. Works fine for me. I still use the stock latch in the front. The hood has a built in metal reinforcement plate to mount the latch hardware to. I've made a few blasts to over 120 MPH and the hood has shown no signs of trying to fly off.
 
I wouldnt use springs. I would just use stock hinges without springs and a hood prop, locking the hood with hood pins. I'm one of the many people who had their hood pop up and lose it on the highway, lucky it actually flew over the car and I was able to pick it up.
 
Pakrat said:
I've always wondered how good a light set of small cylinder type pumps would work, you know like the type you might find on a hatchback door or the glass on the back of an SUV if it opens independant of the back gate door. Something with just enough pressure to balance the weight and hold it open but requires little force to close. :shrug:

I have seen kits like that for latemodel Mustangs so it is possible.
 
hood pins are a pain in the ass. I've had 'em before, but I wouldn't have 'em again. Plus, a good set that looks nice and won't rust will cost nearly as much as buying a hood thats setup to use the stock latch.
 
Just take your old hood spring out and go to Home Depot and buy some trampoline springs of the same lenght. Believe me they work very well at 1/4 of the cost. If you have a really nice paintjob then go with pins. Otherwise at high speed the hood will flap enough to crack your paint and possibly chip your fender's paint.
 
tony branda carrys the fiberglass hood light springs.

i have pins up front and I personally hate them. First off, they rusted already, second, the ruin the smooth look, youve got these pins sticking up. im going to convert it back to a latch.
 
Just to throw this out but the twist latch stlye found on 70 stangs and smoe Shelby's might be th ticket, a little more stream lined anyway and probably less likely to rust, that is just an assumption on my part though.

Speaking of which, does anyone happen to know if the twist latch type will line up and install in the same location as a typical pin type? I have been contemplating upgrading to those after I repaint.
 
302 coupe said:
hood pins are a pain in the ass. I've had 'em before, but I wouldn't have 'em again. Plus, a good set that looks nice and won't rust will cost nearly as much as buying a hood thats setup to use the stock latch.


Yes, if not installed right ;) i LOVE my pins and wouldent have it any other way, and they shouldent "stick up" too much id you get the right ones and put them in CORRECTLY....My car looks good with them IMO

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Even if you want pins (which I recommend as a safety feature), you should still keep the stock latch. I had pins at all four corners on my car until one of the front pins came loose on the freeway.That corner lifted up, then the hood tore off the other three pin studs and flew onto the highway at 70 mph. I'm not saying that yours will, but why not have some extra insurance? But in the interest of having extra insurance, get locking hood pins even with a latch so that people have a harder time stealing your stuff under the hood. Do both!
 
If you drive on the highway, you can also make an aluminum shield that attaches to the top of your grill and extends back to the top of the radiator support. If you decide to use the latch, you'll need to notch it out. Bring the front edge out to where it's close to the hood or better yet, put a piece of denser foam on the bottom of the hood where it will contact the aluminum pan. This will help to keep the air from trying to lift up the front edge of your hood, plus it forces it thru the radiator. If you go with a full pin on type and remove the hinges, you can also glue 4 pieces of foam to the bottom of your hood so that when you take it off, you can rest it on your roof. Keep a clean blanket in the back floor board to throw over the roof if your concerned about scratching your paint. I've seen hood leaned up against some things that the wind has came along and blown over, hood laid aside on the ground that people weren't paying attention and stepped backwards away from the engine compartment and stepped on, and hoods on the ground further away that have been run over by golfcarts/ATV's. I'm sure it could blow off the roof of the car, but I have yet to see it happen.