No I have a bbk Catted H........I was gonna get one after emissions but it is too loud for my tastes as it is so I am gonna leave it.zenboy99 said:CivicEater, are you running an off-road pipe?
Why does my car run fine on the stock computer ? Am I just lucky ? It seems that the stangs I've seen around here with H/C/I combos all run fine on the stock computer.HairyCanary said:It's actually possible to have a bit of both, if your cam matches your heads, and you choose heads that are matched to the displacement. For example, at 2000 RPM I'm making 240 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels, which is actually not far off what Ford rates the peak torque of a 94/95.
CivicEater -- what you're describing sounds like fairly typical driveability issues common with new N/A setups. Like I said in an earlier post, I think you would really benefit from a chip or EEC tuning device of some kind. My car runs & drives as good as it did stock, or better, but if I turn off my TwEECer and try to let the GT computer handle it on its own, it barely runs at all and is very unpleasant to drive.
Dave
1105 said:You'll more than likely need a laptop for the tweecer. What it does is allows you to hack into the stock computer and change all of the settings on it. Anything managed by your cars computer can be changed to make your car run better. If you get the R/T version it will do data logging so you can go back and look at what your car has been doing.
My car runs OK with the stock computer, but I know it will be 100 times better once I get a tweecer or get it dyno tuned.
mto502 said:Why does my car run fine on the stock computer ? Am I just lucky ? It seems that the stangs I've seen around here with H/C/I combos all run fine on the stock computer.
Could you please explain a little bit to me about the tweecer? Is it user friendly and does it actually increase hp and torque? Does it need to be run on a dyno or can you run it in the car and play around with it on your desk top or do you need a laptop ? Thanks.
Rick
Mine is 13.5 with the stock regulator. It was 13.5 consistant except for 1 small jump into the 12.5 area.95snoozer said:everyonce in a while you get a strange lil computer that adapts. I dunno about yours, but mine and dark ponies is flat as a board 13.1 ish A/F across the board with a little adjustment of the fuel pressure. looks like a tuned car
95snoozer said:everyonce in a while you get a strange lil computer that adapts. I dunno about yours, but mine and dark ponies is flat as a board 13.1 ish A/F across the board with a little adjustment of the fuel pressure. looks like a tuned car
civic eater- the computer will smooth out after about 200 miles. when that cam first hits it, it really freaks out. it will do this from now on everytime you pull the negative ground on the car for any reason. welcome to the cammed world.
not much below 2100? thast seems a litle high..... did you get the street heat or the track heat? I can see the track heat doing that, but with a lil better tuning it should drive down to 1500. also, what kind of coldair do youhave? you might need to rotate it or even do a straight shot intake system. that really smoothed out the bottom end part throttl eon my car. thast about all it did
Everyone has a different experiencemto502 said:Why does my car run fine on the stock computer ? Am I just lucky ? It seems that the stangs I've seen around here with H/C/I combos all run fine on the stock computer.
95snoozer said:by straight shot, i nmean no bend in the coldair infront of the maf.... rotate the maf wher ethe tube is at the top of the bend
The A/C puts a heavy load on the motor that is significantly greater than what it sees at idle normally. That's why I think the instructions include the A/C idle time, to let it sort out how to maintain steady idle with the extra load. I remember Daren Woodall fighting for quite a while with an idle problem on his 95 -- it would be fine until the A/C kicked on, and then it would just stall. Oops.swingline said:Dave, what does the A/C have to do with the computer learning new mods?
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