FINALLLY HCI DONE!!!!

[1105]

Anyone who doesnt like the sound of a cammed car should get some sence beat into him/her j/k man

If its too loud for you... drive around for a week without tailpipes, then put them back on... I can barely hear my car now

 

[Matts89LX5.0]

gotta love the lope

 

[zenboy99]

CivicEater, are you running an off-road pipe?

 

[CivicEater]

CivicEater, are you running an off-road pipe?

No I have a bbk Catted H........I was gonna get one after emissions but it is too loud for my tastes as it is so I am gonna leave it.

lol everyone is up in arms about the "lovely" cammed sound...and I do agree it sounds sweet on some cars, but to me it seems on mine to sound more like a POS winter beater thats about to stall then saves itself........I guess I will learn to like it...I just used to love my old sound so I guess the new one will take awhile....I knew my bottom end wouldnt gain much with the 2.02 on a 302...but I was expecting a little something extra.....
I guess its normal to not be able to stay under 2100 for very long?? If I am at or below 2100 it starts to stumble.......
I am gonna F with the fuel pressure today see if I can get it to not stumble so much around 2k........
Jebus man all I wanted was to touch 12's and look what I get..............

 

[331 cobra]

When you add power on top, you should expect to loose on the bottom, unless you are adding displacement or boost.

You should have asked people what to expect, or else, you asked the wrong people.

It sounds like you should have bought a roots blower instead. They give you good torque along with the top end power.

 

[Rootus]

It's actually possible to have a bit of both, if your cam matches your heads, and you choose heads that are matched to the displacement. For example, at 2000 RPM I'm making 240 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels, which is actually not far off what Ford rates the peak torque of a 94/95.

CivicEater -- what you're describing sounds like fairly typical driveability issues common with new N/A setups. Like I said in an earlier post, I think you would really benefit from a chip or EEC tuning device of some kind. My car runs & drives as good as it did stock, or better, but if I turn off my TwEECer and try to let the GT computer handle it on its own, it barely runs at all and is very unpleasant to drive.

Dave

 

[mto502]

It's actually possible to have a bit of both, if your cam matches your heads, and you choose heads that are matched to the displacement. For example, at 2000 RPM I'm making 240 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels, which is actually not far off what Ford rates the peak torque of a 94/95.

CivicEater -- what you're describing sounds like fairly typical driveability issues common with new N/A setups. Like I said in an earlier post, I think you would really benefit from a chip or EEC tuning device of some kind. My car runs & drives as good as it did stock, or better, but if I turn off my TwEECer and try to let the GT computer handle it on its own, it barely runs at all and is very unpleasant to drive.

Dave

Why does my car run fine on the stock computer ? Am I just lucky ? It seems that the stangs I've seen around here with H/C/I combos all run fine on the stock computer.
Could you please explain a little bit to me about the tweecer? Is it user friendly and does it actually increase hp and torque? Does it need to be run on a dyno or can you run it in the car and play around with it on your desk top or do you need a laptop ? Thanks.

Rick

 

[1105]

You'll more than likely need a laptop for the tweecer. What it does is allows you to hack into the stock computer and change all of the settings on it. Anything managed by your cars computer can be changed to make your car run better. If you get the R/T version it will do data logging so you can go back and look at what your car has been doing.

My car runs OK with the stock computer, but I know it will be 100 times better once I get a tweecer or get it dyno tuned.

 

[mto502]

You'll more than likely need a laptop for the tweecer. What it does is allows you to hack into the stock computer and change all of the settings on it. Anything managed by your cars computer can be changed to make your car run better. If you get the R/T version it will do data logging so you can go back and look at what your car has been doing.

My car runs OK with the stock computer, but I know it will be 100 times better once I get a tweecer or get it dyno tuned.

OK thanks. I assume a dyno tune consists of a new custom chip which is probably a little more cost efficient over the Tweecer. If you're finished doing any modifications then a one time dyno tune is assumably the way to go.
My concern is this. I've seen dyno tunes done in my area and the chip that seems to be the one I hear about is made by Diablo. The problem is, that all the custom chips I've seen come into the dyno have lost power. These must be mail order custom chips. I can't see there being any other way to do a custom chip other than on the dyno itself.

 

[95snoozer]

Why does my car run fine on the stock computer ? Am I just lucky ? It seems that the stangs I've seen around here with H/C/I combos all run fine on the stock computer.
Could you please explain a little bit to me about the tweecer? Is it user friendly and does it actually increase hp and torque? Does it need to be run on a dyno or can you run it in the car and play around with it on your desk top or do you need a laptop ? Thanks.

Rick

everyonce in a while you get a strange lil computer that adapts. I dunno about yours, but mine and dark ponies is flat as a board 13.1 ish A/F across the board with a little adjustment of the fuel pressure. looks like a tuned car

civic eater- the computer will smooth out after about 200 miles. when that cam first hits it, it really freaks out. it will do this from now on everytime you pull the negative ground on the car for any reason. welcome to the cammed world.

not much below 2100? thast seems a litle high..... did you get the street heat or the track heat? I can see the track heat doing that, but with a lil better tuning it should drive down to 1500. also, what kind of coldair do youhave? you might need to rotate it or even do a straight shot intake system. that really smoothed out the bottom end part throttl eon my car. thast about all it did

 

[mto502]

everyonce in a while you get a strange lil computer that adapts. I dunno about yours, but mine and dark ponies is flat as a board 13.1 ish A/F across the board with a little adjustment of the fuel pressure. looks like a tuned car

Mine is 13.5 with the stock regulator. It was 13.5 consistant except for 1 small jump into the 12.5 area.
Perhaps boosting up the fuel pressure with an adjustable FPR will richen that up and give me a few more ponies.

 

[CivicEater]

everyonce in a while you get a strange lil computer that adapts. I dunno about yours, but mine and dark ponies is flat as a board 13.1 ish A/F across the board with a little adjustment of the fuel pressure. looks like a tuned car

civic eater- the computer will smooth out after about 200 miles. when that cam first hits it, it really freaks out. it will do this from now on everytime you pull the negative ground on the car for any reason. welcome to the cammed world.

not much below 2100? thast seems a litle high..... did you get the street heat or the track heat? I can see the track heat doing that, but with a lil better tuning it should drive down to 1500. also, what kind of coldair do youhave? you might need to rotate it or even do a straight shot intake system. that really smoothed out the bottom end part throttl eon my car. thast about all it did

I have the Street, and I also thought that 2100 was high...I have a kirban FPR and I am gonna jack it up some and see if that helps. I have BBK cai and it is a pretty straight shot into the manifold, but I am gonna see if there is any play in it so I can make it just a tiny bit straighter, so long as I can cruise at 2k Ill be ahppy. I cant afford to keep cruisin around at 2600

 

[zenboy99]

Just a little FYI about what I've experienced with tuned H/C/I setups. Maybe the dynos around my area aren't that great but the guys that got a chip burnt have alot of problems. My friends that are running the mail order JMS custom chip on naturally aspirated engines had amazing luck. Now maybe thats just crappy tuning by the local guys, but Ed C suggested I go with a custom JMS chip.

 

[Rootus]

Why does my car run fine on the stock computer ? Am I just lucky ? It seems that the stangs I've seen around here with H/C/I combos all run fine on the stock computer.

Everyone has a different experience . Of course some of it has to do with the cam, mine is aggressive enough that the GT computer freaks out in a big way, and no amount of learning will make it happy.

For what it's worth, it shouldn't take anywhere *near* 200 miles for the EEC to "learn" what it needs. Really, the only part of the calibration that is flexible and gets changed frequently by the EEC is the fuel tables. The old recommended way of "teaching" it is to let it idle for 5 minutes or so with the A/C off, then 5 minutes with the A/C on. There isn't a lot of long-term learning that goes on, it is constantly changing as necessary. The upside to the TwEECer is that I can watch the learning process real time . (and it is amazingly fast, IMHO).

Dave

 

[CivicEater]

I was thinking of going with a JMS when I get some cash, but untill then I have jacked up the fp and it still stumbles under 2100 in any gear....pretty annoying....any ideas?

 

[95snoozer]

by straight shot, i nmean no bend in the coldair infront of the maf.... rotate the maf wher ethe tube is at the top of the bend

 

[CivicEater]

by straight shot, i nmean no bend in the coldair infront of the maf.... rotate the maf wher ethe tube is at the top of the bend

The MAF has the tube on top....but there is a slight bend where it comes in from the fender.....not too bad though

 

[swingline]

Dave, what does the A/C have to do with the computer learning new mods?

 

[Rootus]

Dave, what does the A/C have to do with the computer learning new mods?

The A/C puts a heavy load on the motor that is significantly greater than what it sees at idle normally. That's why I think the instructions include the A/C idle time, to let it sort out how to maintain steady idle with the extra load. I remember Daren Woodall fighting for quite a while with an idle problem on his 95 -- it would be fine until the A/C kicked on, and then it would just stall. Oops.

I don't subscribe to the theory that the EEC really "learns" about mods anyway. It simply learns how much fuel to deliver under various circumstances to maintain a good A/F ratio. It really doesn't take long for this to happen, in my experience, it learns very quickly.

Dave

 

[swingline]

I never really bought in to our computers *learning* new mods either. If they were able to adjust themselves we would have no reason to get new ones burnt. Obviously we do. Thanks for clearing that up for me.