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finally getting around to fixing the floors...trying to decide which method to use.

  • Thread starter Thread starter DarkoStoj
  • Start date Start date Dec 24, 2005

DarkoStoj

Founding Member
Sep 4, 2002
929
13
39
Detroit
Dec 24, 2005
#1
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #1
overall its not too bad. I need to replace all the floor behind the passenger side seat tray, and there are a few pinholes at the drivers feet (Only rust on the car WHOO!)

I want to not be able to tell that the floors have been changed when I finish. I was thinking of cutting the floor just to get rid of the rust, then trimming the pan to fit and seaming it in there, instead of just leaving an inch or so and doing spot welds.

What do you guys reccomend?
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Dec 24, 2005
#2
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #2
Never replace more than you need. I would just cut a patch panel if that took care of the rust issue. If you want a hidden patch I would butt weld it.
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Dec 24, 2005
#3
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #3
thehueypilot said:
Never replace more than you need. I would just cut a patch panel if that took care of the rust issue. If you want a hidden patch I would butt weld it.
Click to expand...

Good advice! Only use just the area you need. Your only other option would be to replace the whole floor pan, from front toe board to just under the rear seat and from door to door including the transmission tunnel. That's mucho worko!!!!!!!!
 

BarnStang

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
1,260
3
39
Hagerstown, MD
Dec 24, 2005
#4
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #4
The one piece floor is a lot of work. In a fully equipped garage I got the old floor out in an hour with a plazma cutter, chisiled off the spot welded strips left over in an hour, ground smooth the spot welds in two hours, trial fit and preped the new pan in two hours (meaning drilled about a zillion holes by hand) and installed with a porta power to press the pan in place in about 12 hours. Bracing and manipulating the porta power was a HUGE pain. But, you cannot tell from underneath that the floor was ever replaced unless you REALLY look for it. And once it's painted with stock red primer color paint, I doubt you could tell at all. It looks absolutly fantastic.

I, however, am not going with a one piece on my project at home. THe back seat area is about 98% intact and that is the hardest part of the one piece pan to install so iI am skipping it and doing partials.

It depends on your ride really. If the frame rails are good and the whole floor is wrecked including the rear part, the one piece is a must. If your are concerned about aesthetics(and it seems you are) then a one piece is a must. I hate butt welding. So much grinding to make it look right but I'm also not that good at it yet.

If the car is really valuable and rare, a one piece is a must. For example, My project at home is a common 6 cyl fastback and thats all the vin says it will ever be regadless of what I do so it gets partials. It will be solid and functional. Hope that helps.
 
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