If the bubble goes through the black tubing and into the MC, you will see it come to the top of the fluid.
Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT
- Thread starter DudeStang
- Start date
Thanks. So if I am pumping the fluid through the MC and looking at the fluid, I will see bubbles at the top and presumably when I have done the process enough times (assuming I’m doing it correctly), I won’t see anymore bubbles coming up at the top of the fluid?
Don’t overthink the bench bleed. Loop the lines over the top into the reseviour, make sure the ends are submerged under fluid level, put the nose of the MC against a wall, and pump the piston with a screwdriver. Make sure MC is level but tilting it around as you pump can help get the air out. Should tske 5-10 pumps. Then install.
I do my bench bleed with old brake lines with the ends cut off. Very easy
I do my bench bleed with old brake lines with the ends cut off. Very easy
Just loop the ends of the black tube back into the fluid of the MC (submerge the ends).
Much like blowing air through a straw in your drink. If there is air on the tube it rise to the top where you will see. Enough times with the plunger in and out and the bubbles will stop
or.... what he said ^^
Thank you. Appreciate the response. Straightforward and motivational, lol
Thanks again, Rdub6
So before I made the attempt at bench bleeding, I put the port brake lines on the new MC and just wanted to do a mock-up to make sure I know how everything fits. When I try to line them up with the factory proportioning valve, it doesn’t line up perfectly but I am assuming I can use he-man strength to make it work when it comes time to fit them on for real.
Maybe I’m missing something or running into another issue related to a mod by a previous owner...but I’m confused about which brake line is supposed to go into the new rear port brake line.
I was looking at some images of other setups and it seems like here (image from LMR), the brake line that comes up from the front driver side is routed into the rear port brake line, which I assume is the correct way to do it, but whoever owned my car previously bent the line and routed it into the back of the factory proportioning valve.
I have this line that came in the MM kit I ordered. I assume I could remove the modified brake line and install this but then I would need to find a way to plug the back of the factory proportioning valve. This is making me wish I would have ordered the proportioning valve eliminator kit.
Steel1
Mustang Master
Steel1
Mustang Master
I documented my various mistakes/mishaps/missteps/whatever you want to call them in my latest video:
View: https://youtu.be/fFShYjyxTdQ
After making the video, I managed to replace the front left brake line with the part that came in the MM kit:
I got it pretty secure on the brake/wheel side and it seems there's enough flexibility that I should be able to get it lined up with the new MC when I install it. I went ahead and ordered the proportioning valve eliminator kit from LMR. Probably won't be here until the weekend but I'm hoping I can make everything fit/work between that and the new front left brake line. Fingers crossed.
The molding adhesive eraser tool arrived this weekend. I know someone in this thread recommended it but can't remember who. I definitely should have picked this thing up sooner.
I used it to remove some more of the adhesive from the body molding stripe area. I had largely ignored the rear bumper, which I assume will eventually need to be replaced but since I don't know if that will happen any time soon, I do at least want to clean it up and do the new red stripe soon, all around the car.
Before:
After (like 2-3 minutes):
My gaskets also arrived (intake manifold, EGR spacer to intake) and I already have the valve cover gaskets but I think I'd like to get the brakes done and drive the car for at least a few days before tackling the gaskets and then working on the rest of the oil leaks.
View: https://youtu.be/fFShYjyxTdQ
After making the video, I managed to replace the front left brake line with the part that came in the MM kit:
I got it pretty secure on the brake/wheel side and it seems there's enough flexibility that I should be able to get it lined up with the new MC when I install it. I went ahead and ordered the proportioning valve eliminator kit from LMR. Probably won't be here until the weekend but I'm hoping I can make everything fit/work between that and the new front left brake line. Fingers crossed.
The molding adhesive eraser tool arrived this weekend. I know someone in this thread recommended it but can't remember who. I definitely should have picked this thing up sooner.
I used it to remove some more of the adhesive from the body molding stripe area. I had largely ignored the rear bumper, which I assume will eventually need to be replaced but since I don't know if that will happen any time soon, I do at least want to clean it up and do the new red stripe soon, all around the car.
Before:
After (like 2-3 minutes):
My gaskets also arrived (intake manifold, EGR spacer to intake) and I already have the valve cover gaskets but I think I'd like to get the brakes done and drive the car for at least a few days before tackling the gaskets and then working on the rest of the oil leaks.
Thank you. Appreciate the response. Straightforward and motivational, lol
Thanks again, Rdub6
So before I made the attempt at bench bleeding, I put the port brake lines on the new MC and just wanted to do a mock-up to make sure I know how everything fits. When I try to line them up with the factory proportioning valve, it doesn’t line up perfectly but I am assuming I can use he-man strength to make it work when it comes time to fit them on for real.
Maybe I’m missing something or running into another issue related to a mod by a previous owner...but I’m confused about which brake line is supposed to go into the new rear port brake line.
Previous owner already did the 3-2 port conversion on your car. You can see the 3rd line is connected to the rear of your stock prop valve. That line should be running to the driver's side brake.
Where are the original 2 lines that were there before? (tried looking back int he thread to catch up)
I removed the line that was going from the front driver's side brake into the back of the stock proportioning valve and replaced it with this line that I got in the Maximum Motorsports kit.
Oh I misread your comment. I removed the two lines coming down from the MC, since a number of people commented on them, saying they looked like they are made from copper:
I am replacing those with these new lines when I install the new MC.
Except you can't now because you're 3rd line that would connect to the open port in the pic, is now connected to the back of the stock combo valve down below.
That line coming from the rear is not the factory OEM position. It shouldn't be there. The previous owner did the 3-2 conversion and put the line there. It's done instead of the MM kit you now have, which you don't need.
All you need now are the two lines that go from the MC down to the prop valve.
See this line at the rear. That's the 3rd line that normally connects to the bottom of the stock MC
They essentially did this
www.stangnet.com
That line coming from the rear is not the factory OEM position. It shouldn't be there. The previous owner did the 3-2 conversion and put the line there. It's done instead of the MM kit you now have, which you don't need.
All you need now are the two lines that go from the MC down to the prop valve.
See this line at the rear. That's the 3rd line that normally connects to the bottom of the stock MC
They essentially did this
Brakes - 3-2 port brake conversion using SN95 fitting
I’ve often referenced this method, but never had pics. Until now. When converting to rear disk, or aftermarket disk brakes, one needs to change the MC from the factory 3-port MC to a 2-port variety. Max Motorsports sells a kit for this, but there is another method, that is somewhat cleaner...
www.stangnet.com
First I will say that most of the time I watch the first minute or three of a video and then I move on and that is what I did when I played the first couple of yours, but I have to say now I watch your entire video, I don't know why, maybe it's the beard or maybe it's just to spot stuff in your garage 
they are entertaining enough to hold my attention.
I will say that you should get a Ford assembly manual for your car, I have one for mine and it is a time saver, no searching multiple boobtube videos and miss information.
Although the members here will always be helpful.
Keep plugging along, you're do'n great!
they are entertaining enough to hold my attention.I will say that you should get a Ford assembly manual for your car, I have one for mine and it is a time saver, no searching multiple boobtube videos and miss information.
Although the members here will always be helpful.
Keep plugging along, you're do'n great!
This is what you are trying to do here.
two lines from the mC down to the prop valve.
You already have the three lines connected here. One at the rear, and two on bottom.
Really, you just need to track down the two brake lines from MC to prop vskve. Standard 87-93 lines will work
two lines from the mC down to the prop valve.
You already have the three lines connected here. One at the rear, and two on bottom.
Really, you just need to track down the two brake lines from MC to prop vskve. Standard 87-93 lines will work
I should have known my self-designed “solution” was too simple to make sense. Lol
Man my brain is struggling today. I stared at these pics and read the posts a few times each.
Ok, so if I were to keep the stock proportioning valve in place, then the brake line from the front driver side would stay running into the back of the proportioning valve?
i mocked up the two MM lines (I have one extra rear port brake line) and it seems I might be able to make these work but it would require some adjustments.
Man my brain is struggling today. I stared at these pics and read the posts a few times each.
Ok, so if I were to keep the stock proportioning valve in place, then the brake line from the front driver side would stay running into the back of the proportioning valve?
i mocked up the two MM lines (I have one extra rear port brake line) and it seems I might be able to make these work but it would require some adjustments.
If you can get those two lines into the stock combo valve you are good to go. Don’t touch the one at the rear.
it also looks like the previous owner did gut the combo valve and install the proper plug. Can you take a pic of the fitting on the front?
is there an adjustable valve on the firewall brake line fitting on the pass side?
it also looks like the previous owner did gut the combo valve and install the proper plug. Can you take a pic of the fitting on the front?
is there an adjustable valve on the firewall brake line fitting on the pass side?
There was a plug/fitting from the previous owner (orange-ish/bronze one) but I replaced it with the one on the right.
I do have the adjustable valve on the passenger side (wilwood).
I fixed my mistake.....it's hot as balls in my garage right now but I figure I earned my punishment for my dumb mistake. Now I just need to make sure that the lines I have will work and then get the MC bench bled.
Thanks again for the sharp eyes, fellas.
Thanks again for the sharp eyes, fellas.
