For the bench bleed - I had the MC in my bench vise. I think it was pretty even. I had a pretty sturdy piece corner shaped piece of cardboard to give it a little more support on the front end. I didn't take any pics but here's a screenshot from recording for my next video.
I did the bench bleeding as described by folks in this thread and according to a few videos I watched (seemed to be pretty much the same process described in the few resources I pulled together/read/watched.
After installing the master cylinder, I had my wife help with the brake bleeding. I put together a drain container using a plastic fuel line and plastic bottle. I started with rear passenger side, had my wife press pedal three times, then push all the way down and then I loosened the bleeder screw, closed it, and checked the MC fluid level each time. My wife said that each time the pedal was giving more resistance.
Later last night after talking to my wife, here's one possible explanation - she said that when we were doing the front brakes, she felt the pedal go down further when I opened the bleeder screw the first time but she said she didn't remember that happening on the rear brakes. I am thinking that maybe I didn't leave the bleeder screw open as long on the first cycle on the rear brakes so maybe I will try to bleed the rear brakes again tonight and see if that fixes it, unless anyone has any other more plausible theories or suggestions.
Another concern I have - the brake lines that run from the MC to the proportioning valve, on the PV end, there is a little bit of fluid showing so it seems they aren’t screwed down/tight enough. I used flare wrenches but they could only get them so far in and I don't want to strip or break anything.