I’ve just been using my iPhone 10 (XR) for the vast majority of the videos. I have a handle/small tripod that I got at Best Buy for like 10 bucks too.
Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT
- Thread starter DudeStang
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That’s exactly what I did...hit it with some more PB blaster but man, that thing is on there tight. I feel like I’m going to have to destroy it to remove it. I need to figure out the size of it so I can get another one for when I put the Cobra MC in.
If the nut is that messed up use a pair of curved jaw vice grips. Clamp them on and start wiggling back and forth the break it loose.
Are you upgrading the booster and MC with Cobra stuff?
Are you upgrading the booster and MC with Cobra stuff?
I have the 1998 Cobra MC but no booster. I was just planning to upgrade the MC since I'm replacing the copper brake lines that a previous owner installed.
I tried the vice grips yesterday with no luck but will give it a try again today.
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
No, unfortunately. It’s been on my list of “things I need but keep not buying” for a while. I might see if a neighbor has one I can borrow this weekend or finally buy something of my own.
I have thought about it...but isnt brake fluid flammable? I don’t want to light myself or the garage on fire, lol
Just heat the area at the stud not the whole thing. My concern would be damaging the booster. Maybe leveler heads will chim in.
Happy to report I made some progress without having to resort to a fire-based solution. I guess it just helped that I had it on my work bench but I managed to hammer a 14 mm deep well socket onto the nut, then used my bigger dead blow hammer to hit the wrench while it was on the ground. Miraculously it somehow worked.
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I started working on removing the factory proportioning valve...but the brake lines that go into the bottom proved very difficult to remove, even with a flare nut wrench. I didn’t want to strip anything so I didn’t continue too hard on that front.
I did manage to get the plug off of the end and nothing popped out such as a spring or whatever. Is it safe to assume the factory proportioning valve was already gutted, given the lack of a spring there (and also the existence of the Wilwood proportioning valve on the other side of the engine bay)?
The o-ring from the piece that was in the factory proportioning valve seemed to be in fine shape so I managed to re-use that on the new plug.
I did manage to get the plug off of the end and nothing popped out such as a spring or whatever. Is it safe to assume the factory proportioning valve was already gutted, given the lack of a spring there (and also the existence of the Wilwood proportioning valve on the other side of the engine bay)?
The o-ring from the piece that was in the factory proportioning valve seemed to be in fine shape so I managed to re-use that on the new plug.
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
If there’s no spring or plunger, you’re OK.I started working on removing the factory proportioning valve...but the brake lines that go into the bottom proved very difficult to remove, even with a flare nut wrench. I didn’t want to strip anything so I didn’t continue too hard on that front.
I did manage to get the plug off of the end and nothing popped out such as a spring or whatever. Is it safe to assume the factory proportioning valve was already gutted, given the lack of a spring there (and also the existence of the Wilwood proportioning valve on the other side of the engine bay)?
The o-ring from the piece that was in the factory proportioning valve seemed to be in fine shape so I managed to re-use that on the new plug.
Last night finally got the POR-15 kit applied to the hood hinge/firewall areas and the shock tower behind the proportioning valve.
Waiting for the second coat to dry and then will add the new hood hinge cups and start working on getting the new MC bench bled and installed. I also need to pick up some new nuts for the brake MC to brake booster. Hoping I can stop by Home Depot later today.
Here's the bottom of my brake booster. As far as I could tell, the brakes functioned fine so I wasn't planning on replacing it....but any suggestions on addressing this rust? Would I just do it the same way I did body/frame rust or is there a better way?
Newest video is up:
View: https://youtu.be/ZL0_3BaxFuM
Waiting for the second coat to dry and then will add the new hood hinge cups and start working on getting the new MC bench bled and installed. I also need to pick up some new nuts for the brake MC to brake booster. Hoping I can stop by Home Depot later today.
Here's the bottom of my brake booster. As far as I could tell, the brakes functioned fine so I wasn't planning on replacing it....but any suggestions on addressing this rust? Would I just do it the same way I did body/frame rust or is there a better way?
Newest video is up:
View: https://youtu.be/ZL0_3BaxFuM
Wire wheel on a grinder to remove rust and paint. Sand what you cant get with the wheel. Prime and paint. Thats what I would do.
I had thought about ordering a new one...but it seems like a lot of places are out of stock. I found a couple on Steeda that don't specifically say they aren't in stock (but that was the case with the Koni shocks I ordered over a month ago and those are now on back order until mid August).
https://www.steeda.com/Centric-Mustang-Power-Brake-Booster-84-93-492-160-80068 - this one looks like a direct OEM replacement
https://www.steeda.com/Centric-Mustang-Power-Brake-Booster-79-93-492-160-80095 - this one looks smaller (not as long) and is 50ish dollars cheaper
Any idea which brake boosters will/will not work with a 1993 MC?
That first one, if pic is accurate to what they will send, only has two mounting posts. (and I just watched last video
)Oh man, I completely missed that....thanks for pointing that out (and thanks for watching the video!).That first one, if pic is accurate to what they will send, only has two mounting posts. (and I just watched last video
