Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

I've ordered Harbor Freight on line a few times and I'll never do it again, this was prior to the virus.
Their shipping is Extremely slow, (I'm talking weeks/months) at least to the east coast.
I have a couple of Harbor Freight stores close to me and if they don't have what I'm looking for in stock
I'll get it somewhere else.

Learning that lesson currently....I might cancel the order and see what I can have delivered by Walmart or someone else.

The Battery Tender won't charge a battery. If one lamp is on, it won't keep it charged.
It's only 3/4 amp charging which is nothing more than a maintainer.

If an HF store is close to you, why would you order online?

Because I'm trying to be a responsible citizen and not potentially make the current epidemic worse. None of the things I ordered are really that essential, particularly given current circumstances.

RE: the lamp....isn't there a way that I could disconnect the lamp or remove the bulb before putting the battery back in?
 
If you are talking about the vanity light in the sun visor yes, remove the three screws, take the visor down a little and there is a wire with a connector, just be careful when you put the visor back you don't pinch the wires.
 
Took the sun visors out. My wife is going to attempt to sew them back together. :)

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So the battery appears to be charged based on the light indicator system on the battery charger. It was charging for 7-8 hours. I hooked the battery up to the car...opened door and dome light came on. Turned key and got some dash lights. Car starts to turn over...but it just goes for like a second and can’t go any further than that.

Should I put the battery back on the battery tender for a few more hours or is it safe to go ahead jump start with my other car?
 
Turn the headlights on and crank the car. If the headlights go out while cranking it's the battery. if they stay on without dimming it's the solenoid on the firewall, or starter. This test works for most cars.

Edit; a loose connection at the battery cables ( either end ) can cause the lights to go off and come back on also.

This will sound crazy to a mustang noob. Hook the battery up leave the key off....car in neutral. Do not do this with car in gear or key on unless you don't like your toes, walls, or the garage door.

Now, with that said....take a screw driver and place it across both big studs on the solenoid on the inner fender. If the starter cranks it's a bad solenoid keeping it from starting with the key. It will spark a little but 12v won't hurt you....its just a little more than a 9v battery.
 
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Turn the headlights on and crank the car. If the headlights go out while cranking it's the battery. if they stay on without dimming it's the solenoid on the firewall, or starter. This test works for most cars.

Edit; a loose connection at the battery cables ( either end ) can cause the lights to go off and come back on also.

This will sound crazy to a mustang noob. Hook the battery up leave the key off....car in neutral. Do not do this with car in gear or key on unless you don't like your toes, walls, or the garage door.

Now, with that said....take a screw driver and place it across both big studs on the solenoid on the inner fender. If the starter cranks it's a bad solenoid keeping it from starting with the key. It will spark a little but 12v won't hurt you....its just a little more than a 9v battery.

He forgot the last and most important part... YOU HAVE TO VIDEO THIS METHOD TO WORK AND POST IT HERE
 
Turn the headlights on and crank the car. If the headlights go out while cranking it's the battery. if they stay on without dimming it's the solenoid on the firewall, or starter. This test works for most cars.

Edit; a loose connection at the battery cables ( either end ) can cause the lights to go off and come back on also.

This will sound crazy to a mustang noob. Hook the battery up leave the key off....car in neutral. Do not do this with car in gear or key on unless you don't like your toes, walls, or the garage door.

Now, with that said....take a screw driver and place it across both big studs on the solenoid on the inner fender. If the starter cranks it's a bad solenoid keeping it from starting with the key. It will spark a little but 12v won't hurt you....its just a little more than a 9v battery.

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No.... I'm serious man. It's called jumping the solenoid. The solenoids went bad on all fords. Would give a clicking noise...or sometimes a really slow crank. That thing has 3 studs that are used two big ones with 1/2in nuts and one little one with a red/ blue stripe wire. What happens is when you go to crank the key 12v is sent through the red/blue stripe wire and to the solenoid. The solenoid then sends power from the battery cable to the starter. Jumping the solenoid removes the physical function of the solenoid. The solenoid must also be bolted down tight. The screws that hold it to the car are the ground path.

Don't do like this guy and turn the key on unless you are absolutely sure the car is in neutral and the parking brake is on and works. I know a guy that did this and his mustang started and took a ride by itself down the street, over a curb, and into a tree. This works in all old fords that have a fender apron mounted solenoid.


View: https://youtu.be/ZRlRinL-N-8
 
I figured you were serious but the comment about making sure I film it had me briefly skeptical, lol. Thanks for the detailed explanation though.

So here’s the latest...yesterday, I jumped the fox with my other car. It started up fine and I let it run for a few minutes. Then I turned it off and was able to start it again. Next time I tried to start it, it wouldn’t turn over. So I pulled the battery again, hooked it up to the charger, and let it charge over night. Today I put the battery in and it fired right up. I let it run for a while, then my wife and I took it for a short drive around the neighborhood. After I pulled into the garage, I turned it off and then turned it back on a couple more times. I will probably try again in a little bit to see if it is holding a charge.

Haven’t run any of the other tests suggested yet but will if the battery dies again (assuming that means the vanity mirrors theory was incorrect).
 
I figured you were serious but the comment about making sure I film it had me briefly skeptical, lol. Thanks for the detailed explanation though.

So here’s the latest...yesterday, I jumped the fox with my other car. It started up fine and I let it run for a few minutes. Then I turned it off and was able to start it again. Next time I tried to start it, it wouldn’t turn over. So I pulled the battery again, hooked it up to the charger, and let it charge over night. Today I put the battery in and it fired right up. I let it run for a while, then my wife and I took it for a short drive around the neighborhood. After I pulled into the garage, I turned it off and then turned it back on a couple more times. I will probably try again in a little bit to see if it is holding a charge.

Haven’t run any of the other tests suggested yet but will if the battery dies again (assuming that means the vanity mirrors theory was incorrect).

Have you checked voltage across the battery terminals? Start with checking it now, and then see where you are in the morning. You’ll know if it’s holding steady after getting it charged up.
 
Have you checked voltage across the battery terminals? Start with checking it now, and then see where you are in the morning. You’ll know if it’s holding steady after getting it charged up.

Voltage is varying between 11.xx and 12.xx a little less than two hours since we drove it. Started it again after checking voltage...cranked right up.

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