The sound sounds likes in really down low in the motor.... One time were had an old friend help me adjust timing since i was new to it and then he listens to the exhaust. This guy is a machinist and he knows how stuff works. I would trust him over anyone else.... He said he heard a little piston slop on the left side of the motor, now that i think about it, it does sorta come from the left side...
finally got to the track......pretty dissapointed....
- Thread starter Foxfan88
- Start date
No offence but...
That is some scary ****. You got someone's project gone bad. From what you have said, your in for a lot of work. It will be one thing after another. Sorry to say it, but maby you should try to sell it to someone who has the time/money/experience because I don't think you have the time or money and you have other things to concentrate on besides "is your car going to f up today".
Foxfan88 said:
That is some scary ****. You got someone's project gone bad. From what you have said, your in for a lot of work. It will be one thing after another. Sorry to say it, but maby you should try to sell it to someone who has the time/money/experience because I don't think you have the time or money and you have other things to concentrate on besides "is your car going to f up today".
DEAR LORD I HATE MY CAR!!!!!!
i bought her for 3100 and we knew nothing of these problems and now its not worth 2000$ i've done nothing but take car of her, i mean i hot rod her sometimes, nothing you guys dont do....
and the car gets 10 mpg in town
I feel like selling this POS and getting a nice little truck or something....
I'll prob be too scared to buy another 5.0
Do most stangs come as bad as mine??
i bought her for 3100 and we knew nothing of these problems and now its not worth 2000$ i've done nothing but take car of her, i mean i hot rod her sometimes, nothing you guys dont do....
and the car gets 10 mpg in town
I feel like selling this POS and getting a nice little truck or something....
I'll prob be too scared to buy another 5.0
Do most stangs come as bad as mine??
Sell it and buy another car without all these problems. Sounds like if you're going to keep it, you're gunna have to dump a ton of money and time into it to get it to run correctly.
vikingpower
New Member
Foxfan88 said:DEAR LORD I HATE MY CAR!!!!!!
i bought her for 3100 and we knew nothing of these problems and now its not worth 2000$ i've done nothing but take car of her, i mean i hot rod her sometimes, nothing you guys dont do....
and the car gets 10 mpg in town
I feel like selling this POS and getting a nice little truck or something....
I'll prob be too scared to buy another 5.0
Do most stangs come as bad as mine??
When you buy a used car you gotta trust the previous owner and be able to get some history on it; I bought mine from my best friends dad that hardly drove it, and the first owner had it in storage for 7 years or something (53K miles) so I knew that buying it for $6000 was a pretty good deal. And to this day she still runs like a raped ape, almost no probs to speak of except shiitty factory wiring... You also gotta be able to look for tell tale signs of neglect/abuse evident on the car when you look at it/test drive, and be able to "read" people when you talk to them but that comes with age I think
Skoobie
Damn...Tyler65's hot!
Foxfan88 said:DEAR LORD I HATE MY CAR!!!!!!
i bought her for 3100 and we knew nothing of these problems and now its not worth 2000$ i've done nothing but take car of her, i mean i hot rod her sometimes, nothing you guys dont do....
and the car gets 10 mpg in town
I feel like selling this POS and getting a nice little truck or something....
I'll prob be too scared to buy another 5.0
Do most stangs come as bad as mine??
No not all stangs come that bad...I got mine at 183k, I knew it was the guys track car, and it runs like a top. The only issue is a leaky main seal. My point is milage doesnt always tell the tale of the car. You should get another 5.0 just get an inspection done for $50 at a shop first. Also, you know what to look for this time around so your in a much better position to buy. Clean her up and put it on the market. Your probably gonna lose some cash on it but while your saving up the lost funds take that time to look for the stang you REALLY want this time, no settling for an auto. Stick with the 5.0, you'll be happy, just research your investment this time around
NakedRaygun
New Member
Your 60 foot times are amazing. I'm just pulling your chain. There a lot to improve...including the driver.
slo65
New Member
5.0fox
Member
what i would do if i were in your situation would be to ditch all the stoc ignition and fuel injection and put a small carb on it. this will fix most of the problems you have with the car and it wont cost you much. plus if you are getting only 10 mpg right now your gas mileage will probbly improve to.
willys1
Active Member
You can buy a used 5.0 motor for 500 beans.Theres no way in h@ll youll get 2000 for a car with a bad motor.Get the motor,put some gears and a torque converter and youll be happy.You never did say what track you went too!
I live in Miami, OK pretty close to the center of the US.
My car runs fine, its just that knock that comes when you beat the car....
I havent really spent too much on this car yet, my biggest investments are a battery and 2 cheap 60$ tires...
I will probably think i have a faster than average 5.0 if i get a 5 spd that actually runs what it should....
BUT I DONT WANT TO WAIT AGAIN, I WAITED A LONG TIME TO GET THIS ONE AND IT PISSES ME OFF THAT IT TURNS OUT LIKE THIS!!!!!
anyway what exactly is "piston slop"??
My car runs fine, its just that knock that comes when you beat the car....
I havent really spent too much on this car yet, my biggest investments are a battery and 2 cheap 60$ tires...
I will probably think i have a faster than average 5.0 if i get a 5 spd that actually runs what it should....
BUT I DONT WANT TO WAIT AGAIN, I WAITED A LONG TIME TO GET THIS ONE AND IT PISSES ME OFF THAT IT TURNS OUT LIKE THIS!!!!!
anyway what exactly is "piston slop"??
The transmission may also be fried (132k is a lot for an AOD. Even though yours was replaced, your car shows symptoms of a dead AOD.) Do a big rebuild modification with it, you won't be sorry. Here's my setup, you should do something down these lines to get the most out of your AOD.
-2400 RPM stall converter. Hyper important to a good AOD.
-Stage 3 shift kit. With my old Goodyears I chirped the 1-2 shift at 3000 RPM, barely on the throttle. Big burnout at my 6500 stock-tach RPM shift point, too. With my new Nittos, it HOOKS.
-Buy a 4R70W gear set. The extra kick down low is worth it. With 3.73s, it's the equivalent to launching with 4.56s!
-Get the FRPP or Lentech valve body. My transmission shop gave me the equivalent by working the stock one, but they gave me a good deal.
-Gears, gears, gears, gears, gears. No better mod for an AOD than 3.73s in the ass with a posi rebuild.
-Tires are important, too. I have 235/40ZR18 Nitto NT555s, and they have a bit more traction from launch than usual street tires. Get the mechanical junk first, though.
-You NEED to go through your engine. There are definitely problems within, so replacing it with another 5.0 H.O. would be your best bet.
My car with the above junk and 110 000 miles kicks the ass off of 5.0s with manuals. I street race sanely, and I rarely lose to anything in my league (WS6s are definitely not in my league.) After the stoplight grand prix, I've had conversations with people I've beaten:
"Are you sure that thing's an automatic?"
"Yep"
"You're shifting that thing, right?"
"Nope."
"No way!"
Another:
"You got a manual in that thing?"
"Nope."
"So you have a C4 then, right?"
"No, it's an AOD."
"Bull****."
Not only is this setup a blast, it's super quick and it makes an excellent sleeper. With good driving and conditions, it should be good for 13.99. Poeple don't know what the AOD can do, so why not embarass them
Your car has potential, so good luck in the 5.0 world, grasshopper.
-2400 RPM stall converter. Hyper important to a good AOD.
-Stage 3 shift kit. With my old Goodyears I chirped the 1-2 shift at 3000 RPM, barely on the throttle. Big burnout at my 6500 stock-tach RPM shift point, too. With my new Nittos, it HOOKS.
-Buy a 4R70W gear set. The extra kick down low is worth it. With 3.73s, it's the equivalent to launching with 4.56s!
-Get the FRPP or Lentech valve body. My transmission shop gave me the equivalent by working the stock one, but they gave me a good deal.
-Gears, gears, gears, gears, gears. No better mod for an AOD than 3.73s in the ass with a posi rebuild.
-Tires are important, too. I have 235/40ZR18 Nitto NT555s, and they have a bit more traction from launch than usual street tires. Get the mechanical junk first, though.
-You NEED to go through your engine. There are definitely problems within, so replacing it with another 5.0 H.O. would be your best bet.
My car with the above junk and 110 000 miles kicks the ass off of 5.0s with manuals. I street race sanely, and I rarely lose to anything in my league (WS6s are definitely not in my league.) After the stoplight grand prix, I've had conversations with people I've beaten:
"Are you sure that thing's an automatic?"
"Yep"
"You're shifting that thing, right?"
"Nope."
"No way!"
Another:
"You got a manual in that thing?"
"Nope."
"So you have a C4 then, right?"
"No, it's an AOD."
"Bull****."
Not only is this setup a blast, it's super quick and it makes an excellent sleeper. With good driving and conditions, it should be good for 13.99. Poeple don't know what the AOD can do, so why not embarass them
Your car has potential, so good luck in the 5.0 world, grasshopper.Aliate X said:
Ive never been to the track yet but I also saw a difference by just cleaning the engine.
My car wouldnt be able to spin 2nd very long when I shifted hard. Now it doesnt stop spinning and I can turn the tires going into 3rd gear.
This is what I cleaned:
Mas air
Idle Air control valve
Took the egr valve off cleaned it (it was a mess)
Seafoamed the intake (this was the biggest help) Through the brake booster line.
Some of you guys are forgetting something: This is a young guy with limited experience and a low budget as well as limited tools I am sure also. Just simply rebuilding a tranny and/or motor then expecting it to be right when he gets it done, first time, that's a tall order. If you think he's frustrated right now, wait until he gets to digging that hole.
Considering the electronic problems with the car, 5.0Fox is right, maby a carb conversion would be the best way to go.
Going with a used motor might be a good idea, such as willys1 said, but I have my feelings about junkyard motors, as they are hit or miss. I would first take that one out and have an engine shop check it out and they will tell you the best route to go.
About the tranny. I would forget the AOD(E) completly. Good tranny but not for racing and hotrodding. Why build up a AOD, it would be cheaper and you would be a lot happier with a C4. I kind of wish that is what I did instead of the TKO500. C4 - 3000rpm converter - manual valvebody, not that expensive to build. I just might end up with that in time if the one out of my buddy's car is rebuildable. He blew his but he's pushing over 1000hp. He went to a powerglide.
Or go ahead with the T5, but you'll end up needing an upgrade over that later.
Considering the electronic problems with the car, 5.0Fox is right, maby a carb conversion would be the best way to go.
Going with a used motor might be a good idea, such as willys1 said, but I have my feelings about junkyard motors, as they are hit or miss. I would first take that one out and have an engine shop check it out and they will tell you the best route to go.
About the tranny. I would forget the AOD(E) completly. Good tranny but not for racing and hotrodding. Why build up a AOD, it would be cheaper and you would be a lot happier with a C4. I kind of wish that is what I did instead of the TKO500. C4 - 3000rpm converter - manual valvebody, not that expensive to build. I just might end up with that in time if the one out of my buddy's car is rebuildable. He blew his but he's pushing over 1000hp. He went to a powerglide.
Or go ahead with the T5, but you'll end up needing an upgrade over that later.
willys1
Active Member
Montana?? What elevation is the track at?? Dude I lived in Colorado about 30mins from Bandimere Raceway.It was 5400ft above sea level!!! It was not uncommon to see a 14-15 second cars to run in the 16's!! Elevation makes "air" really thin,thus choking your motor,and robbing you of HP.I would find the elevation.Foxfan88 said:
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