Ran My Car On The Track Today... Not Happy!

:nonono:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...art-of-the-mustang-world.863185/#post-8679076

^Info on my car..

Its probably me not knowing how to drive the car. As I have only ever had a bike on the strip. But my best run was a
.01 reaction time
2.13 60ft
6.11 330
9.29@76mph 1/8th
14.3 1/[email protected].

From my research on this forum reading the time posts for stock 99-02s they do high 13s low 14s BONE STOCK!. Im having to shift before the 60ft, Im spinning all the way through 1st gear. I was running 20psi in the rear tires trying to leave the line at 2000rpm. Im hittin 4th gear just before the 1/4 mile mark. Im not happy.

I tried running with the traction control off and on. I even tried lauching at higher RPMs in 2nd gear instead of 1st. With traction control on I still spun a good bit but i ended up with a 14.6 or something. 2nd gear didnt work either. I dont know. But the nittos and the bbk headers should do something for the time. So Im stuck on its me. Maybe need to take and have the car dyno tuned? idk. I did about 8 passes. Ive only had this car a little over a week. I need advise!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Well, your times are lower than what you want because your 60' sucks.

Your suspension setup is geared more towards turning than transferring weight, which is exactly what you need to have occur at the track.

We've run basically identical times and MPH (best my car trapped on motor was 100 or low 101). I couldn't get anywhere past 14.2/14.3 on street tires and my best on drag radials was a 13.9 on motor.. tires were too big and too worn to do any better with my suspension (Roush springs, stock/Bullitt shocks/struts).
 
Well, your times are lower than what you want because your 60' sucks.

Your suspension setup is geared more towards turning than transferring weight, which is exactly what you need to have occur at the track.

We've run basically identical times and MPH (best my car trapped on motor was 100 or low 101). I couldn't get anywhere past 14.2/14.3 on street tires and my best on drag radials was a 13.9 on motor.. tires were too big and too worn to do any better with my suspension (Roush springs, stock/Bullitt shocks/struts).

Ok so what do you think I need to do?
 

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density...rack=3&month=11&day=11&year=2012&time=2:55 PM

I just want a daily driver that is decently fast. This car will only see high speed on a drag strip and will never see anything else. It will be lucky to go to the drag strip again. But Im sick at the fact its running a 14.3 with the things that are done to it. Just the nitto drag radials, gears, and full intake/exhaust should have it running at least 12s right? What am I doing wrong? Do I need to power shift it to get a 13?? lol Could it just need to be dyno tuned or have a handheld tuner? Just sickens me.
 
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php?temperature=76.1&rh=40&altset=30.24&elevation=160&track=3&month=11&day=11&year=2012&time=2:55 PM

I just want a daily driver that is decently fast. This car will only see high speed on a drag strip and will never see anything else. It will be lucky to go to the drag strip again. But Im sick at the fact its running a 14.3 with the things that are done to it. Just the nitto drag radials, gears, and full intake/exhaust should have it running at least 12s right? What am I doing wrong? Do I need to power shift it to get a 13?? lol Could it just need to be dyno tuned or have a handheld tuner? Just sickens me.

Alright, so the DA was 1100 feet, which is around .1 seconds and 1 mph for most NA cars. So let's correct your time down to a 14.2 @ 99.9 mph just for comparison.

There's a lot of ET left in your short time. Your 60' is around a tenth off for a "good" pass on street tires at your power level. So if you could cut a 2.03 (definitely do-able with nice tires), that would get you down to around a 14.0 at about 100 mph. Get it down in the 1.95 range (either with REALLY good driving, or drag tires), and your looking at 13.8-13.9.

Honestly, with your mods, you're not looking to go a lot quicker than that. The people that do 13.9-14.0 in a stock 99-04 GT are the exception, not the rule; the conditions for those runs have to be PERFECT. Perfect weather, perfect track prep, perfect track (some tracks are a LOT quicker than other tracks), perfect launch, perfect power shifts, etc. It is VERY uncommon for that to happen. In my personal experiences at the track, a stockish 99-04 usually runs 14.4-14.5 with a decent driver. Your mods really aren't adding THAT much to what you should be running. Your shorty headers are adding nothing; the catless midpipe is worth a little over a tenth, intake stuff might be a tenth, and gears are worth pretty much nothing without proper traction. So if I had to take a guess at what your car would run without knowing what it ran, I'd guess a low 14 (i.e. pretty much what you ran).

The tale of how much power your car is making is in the trap speed. Your car trapped 100 mph; stock 99-04s trap around 98 on a good pass. So you're really not very far off, if any at all. To put it in perspective, I've got a good friend with an '01 Bullitt. It has EVERY bolt-on mod you can think of: full exhaust (including long tubes), full intake (including the Bullitt intake, which IS better), underdrive pulleys, 4.10 gears, dyno tune, Stage II cams (not really a bolt on, but it proves my point), AND his car is about 150 pounds light. It runs high 12s at about 106-107. The cams and weight are easily worth 5 mph of the advantage he has over you, and the intake/longtubes/UDPs are worth the other 1-2 mph, so I'd say you're not far off at all.
 
Alright, so the DA was 1100 feet, which is around .1 seconds and 1 mph for most NA cars. So let's correct your time down to a 14.2 @ 99.9 mph just for comparison.

There's a lot of ET left in your short time. Your 60' is around a tenth off for a "good" pass on street tires at your power level. So if you could cut a 2.03 (definitely do-able with nice tires), that would get you down to around a 14.0 at about 100 mph. Get it down in the 1.95 range (either with REALLY good driving, or drag tires), and your looking at 13.8-13.9.

Honestly, with your mods, you're not looking to go a lot quicker than that. The people that do 13.9-14.0 in a stock 99-04 GT are the exception, not the rule; the conditions for those runs have to be PERFECT. Perfect weather, perfect track prep, perfect track (some tracks are a LOT quicker than other tracks), perfect launch, perfect power shifts, etc. It is VERY uncommon for that to happen. In my personal experiences at the track, a stockish 99-04 usually runs 14.4-14.5 with a decent driver. Your mods really aren't adding THAT much to what you should be running. Your shorty headers are adding nothing; the catless midpipe is worth a little over a tenth, intake stuff might be a tenth, and gears are worth pretty much nothing without proper traction. So if I had to take a guess at what your car would run without knowing what it ran, I'd guess a low 14 (i.e. pretty much what you ran).

The tale of how much power your car is making is in the trap speed. Your car trapped 100 mph; stock 99-04s trap around 98 on a good pass. So you're really not very far off, if any at all. To put it in perspective, I've got a good friend with an '01 Bullitt. It has EVERY bolt-on mod you can think of: full exhaust (including long tubes), full intake (including the Bullitt intake, which IS better), underdrive pulleys, 4.10 gears, dyno tune, Stage II cams (not really a bolt on, but it proves my point), AND his car is about 150 pounds light. It runs high 12s at about 106-107. The cams and weight are easily worth 5 mph of the advantage he has over you, and the intake/longtubes/UDPs are worth the other 1-2 mph, so I'd say you're not far off at all.

Wow... That puts it in perspective for sure. That sucks epic monkey balls :/. I am spinning alot in first gear but Im sure its just the track. They dont prep for :poo: when it comes to test and tune days. But. Im not power shifting at all. I really dont know crap when it comes to running a car. So Im running it to redline lettin out of the gas hittin the clutch shifting and back in the gas. From what I have read power shifting is never letting off the gass. Just pushing the clutch and shifting while still full throttle.
 
Ok so what do you think I need to do?

Boost or throw some gas at it...:D

Seriously, if it's not going to see the track often, don't put too much into the numbers you got. Important thing is that the car is fun to drive. If you need the "fast" option, seriously look into a small shot of nitrous. 100 shot wakes the car up a lot, is pretty safe and doesn't require the investment of a blower.

And also, you are correct... airing down those Nittos and putting some heat into them is your best bet. They are great on the street, but not the ideal drag radial for the track. Doesn't make sense, but that's the nature of the tire.
 
I was thinking about running a 75-100 shot a nos just for the kick in the ass when I need it. My cousin has a 07 stage 1 roush auto and we are in debate as to which one will get it. His is all stock and stage 1 only has the roush mufflers as far as performance. So I think powershifting I could beat it. But maybe not seeing these numbers lol. Im thinking powershifting would get me into the 13s easily.

Any suggestions on a decent setup of nos for a reasonable price? lol
 
Oh, I didn't realize you were on drag radials. Yea, got some work to do there...lol (or the track really sucks).

One tip for the Nitto drag radials: HEAT. They HAVE to have heat for them to stick properly. When you do a burnout, be sure to get a good amount of smoke rolling off of them. I've cut 1.7 60's on my Nittos, and that was power limited, not traction limited.
 
...and stop letting air out of your street tires. That only makes matters worse. Run them properly inflated.

You are incorrect. Always take air out of the rears, even street tires with stiffer side walls. But he is running drag radials.

OP, practice is your best bet. Learning how to slip a clutch on drag radials will help you out a lot. You don't need a tune at this point but it might help with advancing the timing a bit. Most 2v's run good with standard bolt ons. Practice. Practice. Practice.
 
You are incorrect. Always take air out of the rears, even street tires with stiffer side walls. But he is running drag radials.

OP, practice is your best bet. Learning how to slip a clutch on drag radials will help you out a lot. You don't need a tune at this point but it might help with advancing the timing a bit. Most 2v's run good with standard bolt ons. Practice. Practice. Practice.

Before I go clutch slipping Ill just leave that alone. Dont want to burn up a clutch. I wasnt doing a big burn out or nothing. Rolling through the wet box and then burning out for a few seconds let off the break and spin till they start sticking. But yeah I was running 20psi and that seemed to help. Next time I go I will powershift it and try not to bounce it off the rev limiter lol.
 
Before I go clutch slipping Ill just leave that alone. Dont want to burn up a clutch. I wasnt doing a big burn out or nothing. Rolling through the wet box and then burning out for a few seconds let off the break and spin till they start sticking. But yeah I was running 20psi and that seemed to help. Next time I go I will powershift it and try not to bounce it off the rev limiter lol.

That's your first mistake. You never roll through the water box at the track with any type of radials in the front of the car. It's not good track etiquette, but you do contribute to ruining the track prep for the rest of the night for others( along with trucks, etc), when you drag water up with you in your radials. At your power level, you won't burn up a clutch slipping it. I went 13.1 at 260rwhp with Nittos 12 years ago in full street trim in high school. Just a PI 2v mustang.

Here is how I do my burnout in street trim with big radials up front. Go around the water and back up. I've even pulled off the track if the officials are too dumb to leave a dry spot to drive around. Trust me, it makes a difference. Slip that darn clutch with radials!

 
You are incorrect. Always take air out of the rears, even street tires with stiffer side walls. But he is running drag radials.

OP, practice is your best bet. Learning how to slip a clutch on drag radials will help you out a lot. You don't need a tune at this point but it might help with advancing the timing a bit. Most 2v's run good with standard bolt ons. Practice. Practice. Practice.

This is what I'm referring to:

tire_pressure.jpg


I saw no mention that his tires were DRs before posting that. :O_o:
 

Attachments

  • tire_pressure.jpg
    tire_pressure.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 158
That's your first mistake. You never roll through the water box at the track with any type of radials in the front of the car. It's not good track etiquette, but you do contribute to ruining the track prep for the rest of the night for others( along with trucks, etc), when you drag water up with you in your radials. At your power level, you won't burn up a clutch slipping it. I went 13.1 at 260rwhp with Nittos 12 years ago in full street trim in high school. Just a PI 2v mustang.

Here is how I do my burnout in street trim with big radials up front. Go around the water and back up. I've even pulled off the track if the officials are too dumb to leave a dry spot to drive around. Trust me, it makes a difference. Slip that darn clutch with radials!



Ok I was taking a short cut by posting "rolling through" I drive around and back in lol. Thats how the other street cars were doing it so thats how I did it.
 
This is what I'm referring to:

tire_pressure.jpg


I saw no mention that his tires were DRs before posting that. :O_o:

I still tend to agree more with your line of thinking than the 'let air out' side. Because of the weight transfer to the rear tires, I understanding letting some air out so that that low pressure then becomes the proper pressure with the extra weight load. I feel that that's relative to how much power the car is making and the corresponding weight transfer. The 275 radial racers around here run at least 13-14 psi, and that's with a LOT of weight transfer. Also, the stiffer the sidewall, the less air that needs to be taken out. FWIW, I've never run less than 25 psi in my Nittos, and have never had problems on a track with any kind of decent prep at all.
 

Attachments

  • tire_pressure.jpg
    tire_pressure.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 155