Fixed e break.. Now brakes are locked up..

gearheadboy · Nov 22, 2012

It probably HAD quad shocks and someone removed them. The brake drums were impossible to get off because the parking brake was essentially ON from improper adjustment. First off when you replace the shoes that you destroyed getting the drum off, make sure the park brake handle is down completely and the star wheel adjuster in the drum is adjusted completely IN before trying to force the drum on. If it won't go on because it seems the brakes are too far out (applied) then stop. I believe what jrichker was referring to was the adjustment at the inside pull handle.

billison · Nov 22, 2012

I didn't think our cars could have quad shocks..

But I figure it it don't go on with normal force something is still wrong. I figure the ebrake inside that side just seezed

mikestang63 · Nov 22, 2012

Not to sound harsh, If you don't know what you are doing, I STRONGLY advise you take the car to a qualified mechanic. Monkeying around with your brake system is not only unwise it is unsafe. You need to adjust the drums properly or you can end up with no brakes, uneven braking, or locking of the drums when you try and stop at 60 mph.

Take pictures of everything before and during dis assembly, as the springs, shoes, adjuster, and other parts go on in a specific order and orientation. Check the drums for warpage an mic them for thickness. If good, have them turned. Replace all of the hardware, springs, shoes and check the wheel cylinders for leakage. Make sure you put the correct shoe facing forward. Grease all of the mounting pads and keep everything squeaky clean. Keep the star adjuster loose so you can install the drum easily and then adjust it up when you put the tire back on. As others have said, you can drive backward for final adjustment of the ebrake and drums.

tca7291 · Nov 22, 2012

Also during re assembly, it is always a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the adjusters (tips and threads) and also other pivot points that are AWAY from the shoe surfaces.

billison · Nov 22, 2012

I busted out my chitons and ill be fallowing the reassembly step by step. I bought shoes and the hardware kit. I've done the job before its just been 10+ years. If I can't get it I got friends. I'm sure ill get it after lunch.

twistedwankel · Nov 22, 2012

billison said:
I didn't think our cars could have quad shocks..

My 86GT Vert has them and always did. So did my 84LX vert. They do controll wheel hop. I think most guys take them off to run huge rear wheels for clearance with 10" rims. Or there might be an issue with disk brake 5 bolt conversions?

billison · Nov 22, 2012

ok, just got it back the way it was. The only thing that seems like could be a problem is the parking brake return springs, they are both pretty old, probably original. Not really sure what else I should check. when the break us up, they stop, when the peddle is down, they stop, , they seem a tad tight right after I let up on the lever but i'm turning the axles by hand. any thing else I should check before I close it all up and call it done? nothing is leaking? one of the return springs was messed up but it got replaced...

jrichker · Nov 22, 2012

Some help...Maybe a little bit late...

Drum brake assembly

When you install the brake shoes, remember: short shoe goes towards the front of the car.

Here's two pages out of the factory shop manual...

billison · Nov 22, 2012

ok.. i'm stuck. I got everything back together, everything matches the passenger side (i've not touched the passenger side minus removing the drum so I can check everything) Everything seems fine with the drum off. Now to put the drums back on, on both sides ( ok i touched the passenger side a little, but she liked it).

To test the braking , with the rear in the air, no wheels on, drums on held with lugs, and blocks in front of front tires, I started the car, put it in first and let it idle, Pressing the brakes would not stop the axles from spinning, neither would pulling the parking brake ( i keeps spelling it break...) , after thinking about it, i'm assuming it's because the adjusters are all the way in to allow the drum back on, right?

and the original problem is till there, when I pull the ebrake the drivers side does not want to let go, or at least that's what it seems, I had to pry the drum off again and it's the primary pad that catches mostly, (the smaller one that faces the front)

tca7291 · Nov 22, 2012

Have you had your drums turned? If they have alot of miles on them and have a groove cut into them, with new pads can cause problems like that. A lip will form on the inner most part of the brakeing surface of the drum, and new pads won't line up properly, causing them to lock, and difficult to install or remove the drums.

Maryland Stang · Nov 22, 2012

The problem is not in, nor has it ever been, in the rear brakes. They were probably adjusted properly to begin with. The problem is in the E brake assembly and/or the cables. There are 2 cables, each go to a rear drum. One or both of those cables is seized up. It allows you to pull the E brake on by force, but because of rust or whatever, it won't go back. You've already replaced the front cable, now replace the 2 rear cables and everything should be fine after you adjust the cables properly.

billison · Nov 22, 2012

i was starting to wonder about the long cables.....

billison · Nov 22, 2012

before I pull and replace the cables, is there a way I can test this, like with the drum off, how much should the shoes move when I pull the brake? and how much should they go back? the cables are cheap and seem easy to change so I have no problem doing the job,

now that i'm thinking about it, on the drivers side, when I was trying to put my drum back on, it didn't want to go, till i pressed up on the ebrake lever thing and it moved a bunch and let the drum go back on.

billison · Nov 22, 2012

not sure if I said this, but I got the car about a month ago or so, but I have no clue how long the brakes have been not working. It was broke when I got it, so it's possible it's been this way for years..

mikestang63 · Nov 22, 2012

spray down the cables with wd 40 or PB and see if that free's up the cable before you pull the old ones off to replace them. If you pull on the E brake handle, do you see he cables moving.

billison · Nov 22, 2012

Ok, lubed everything in sight, had the wife pull on the handle about 10 times, the first time it moved a little , but it would never return at all, I figure its a compation of the return spring being shot and the cable starting to lock up. I'll check the other side in a bit. Both sides will get replaced though,

tca7291 · Nov 22, 2012

I would say just go ahead and replace the cables, just make sure that you or your wife don't press the brake petal with the drums off! If you do you will have one hell of a mess!

billison · Nov 22, 2012

What kinda mess?

I'll be picking up the cables and trying to get them changed this weekend , nothing like doing the work by moon light. I gotta get this junk outta my garage.

tca7291 · Nov 22, 2012

If you hit the brake petal with the drums off, the wheel cylinders will shoot the pistons right out of the body. Just a precaution, don't press the petal without the drums on, this does not apply to the e-brake, just the normal brakes.

billison · Nov 22, 2012

With the drums off or the shoes off? Cuz I kinda already did it with the drum off but everything assembled to see if it was all moving right.

Fixed e break.. Now brakes are locked up..

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