Flipping the leaf springs??
- Thread starter SmockDoiley
- Start date
z2o_what
Member
broncobuddha
Founding Member
You can not simply flip the springs upside down.
There is a company in Minnesaota called MAS, they advertise is Street Rodder and Custom Rodder magazine. They make dropped axles in up to 7" drop. They don't haev a website though.
If you don't want to change the axle you can have custom leaf springs made by any local spring company that have low or no arch with "reversed eye" ends. Those alone will give about 2" drop. You should be able to get about 5"-6" of drop with just custom springs.
So you have options. Oh yeah...does your old Dodge have a early hemi in it? Lots of those old Dodge trucks had the little hemi's.
There is a company in Minnesaota called MAS, they advertise is Street Rodder and Custom Rodder magazine. They make dropped axles in up to 7" drop. They don't haev a website though.
If you don't want to change the axle you can have custom leaf springs made by any local spring company that have low or no arch with "reversed eye" ends. Those alone will give about 2" drop. You should be able to get about 5"-6" of drop with just custom springs.
So you have options. Oh yeah...does your old Dodge have a early hemi in it? Lots of those old Dodge trucks had the little hemi's.
FORCED2DV8
New Member
Basically some sort of welding and farication is required, The leaf spring pack is not meant to hold any weight upside down, However there is one cheap option although not reccomended, take the leaf pack apart and remove all but 2 leaf springs and reassemble, this will lower the truck but you will not be able to haul any heavy loads.
i was about to say the same thingYes, Spring under conversion is your best bet.
Yes, you'll need to cut off the mounting plate and re-weld it to the bottom side of the axle.
Just doing this conversion results in approx 4" of drop. More drop can be acomplished with lowering blocks, but I think you'd run into problems with the axle hitting the frame.
Yes, you'll need to cut off the mounting plate and re-weld it to the bottom side of the axle.
Just doing this conversion results in approx 4" of drop. More drop can be acomplished with lowering blocks, but I think you'd run into problems with the axle hitting the frame.
FORCED2DV8
New Member
yeah it will drop it alot more than you thinkat lest 4 inches, your not going to be doing the spring any favors, most likely it will be bent flat instead of the current arc it has. I would do what the others reccomended with the spring under the axle, and blocks.SmockDoiley said:
Street rods are one of my oldest passions. I've done a lot of research into suspensions and such.
It's not safe to cut and weld a forged front I-beam axle like he has. The spring mounting pad is cast into the top of the axle. So spring under conversion on the front axle will not work.
Posies is a company in PA that specializes in street rod springs. But they are expensive. In my area we have a company that will custom make springs for heavy trucks and they also do them for cars if you ask them too. Check your local yellow pages for a spring company. The best ride will come from a spring that is nearly flat under load (like the springs used in the square headlight Jeeps in the late 80's-mid 90's). And you DEFINITELY want them to reverse the spring eye for a little more drop. What's the total drop you want?
It's not safe to cut and weld a forged front I-beam axle like he has. The spring mounting pad is cast into the top of the axle. So spring under conversion on the front axle will not work.
Posies is a company in PA that specializes in street rod springs. But they are expensive. In my area we have a company that will custom make springs for heavy trucks and they also do them for cars if you ask them too. Check your local yellow pages for a spring company. The best ride will come from a spring that is nearly flat under load (like the springs used in the square headlight Jeeps in the late 80's-mid 90's). And you DEFINITELY want them to reverse the spring eye for a little more drop. What's the total drop you want?
tjm73 said:
So why isn't it safe? He doesn't need to cut off the original pad...just weld a new one in. Are you worried about the forged steel? I wasn't aware that they did any forging back in 56. Even then, a good welder can weld forged steel in such a way as to not weaken the metal. (re-temper)
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
"I wasn't aware that they did any forging back in 56."
Uh - forging has been around for a LOT longer than that. They were forging swords in the Middle Ages....
Those type of axles have almost always been heat treated -- welding or cutting on them ruins the heat treat. You can weld/cut them -- but they should be heat treated again afterwards. It's usually easier to simply lower it another way.
Lots of other options/companies listed in the thread body. Unfortunately doing it safely and well usually isn't the cheapest option.
Uh - forging has been around for a LOT longer than that. They were forging swords in the Middle Ages....
Those type of axles have almost always been heat treated -- welding or cutting on them ruins the heat treat. You can weld/cut them -- but they should be heat treated again afterwards. It's usually easier to simply lower it another way.
Lots of other options/companies listed in the thread body. Unfortunately doing it safely and well usually isn't the cheapest option.
I agree with u too, im sure the truck is not an everyday driver, so it would be under as much stress all the time.tjm and yount, thanks. Someone who is understanding what I am talking about. If it was a rearend, yes, I know, you just relocate the bracket under the axle and place the springs under. But not with a front I-beam axle. I called a place that makes custom springs and they want $360 a piece!!! I just want 3-4 inches in the front. Cant go buying kits because of the cost and that no one makes akit for old dodge trucks.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Perhaps someone else touched on it -- can you modify/does anyone make an offset kingpin set up for it? Basically leaves the axle where it's at and moves the spindle/wheel/tire up....
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Well - hang in there Smock - you'll figure it out; the cool thing is you don't see those done very much, so it'll be really unique once you get it figured out. As you've probably guessed by now - I LIKE unique.
Maybe you should ask the vintage guys:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=544275&highlight=leaf+mod
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=544275&highlight=leaf+mod
