rednotch
Founding Member
dodge chargers have a very similar staggered 2 fan set up and are all over pic n pulls these days.. Personally rather used a junk yard oem then aftermarket stuff.
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The dodge fan was interesting to me. Looks like a big beefy fan that would pull a lot of CFM.
Would like to see someone mock that up to a typical fox dimension rad first. My love for the contour fan only extends to how well the fan shroud works on the fox radiator, especially with LMR bracket kit. But other than that, i think they could stand to gain some more CFM of capacity, especially the aftermarket units.
Would like to see someone mock that up to a typical fox dimension rad first. My love for the contour fan only extends to how well the fan shroud works on the fox radiator, especially with LMR bracket kit. But other than that, i think they could stand to gain some more CFM of capacity, especially the aftermarket units.
I didn't know there was one. I have replaced the fan clutch twice. The first time was way back when i fought overhearing the first time and is probably documented in Black Jack's thread. The second was after I bout it back, last year, because the fan clutch I bought was fairly well locked and sounded WAY over spun at high RPM. Thought it might spin the fan apart. The sound drastically changed for the better. If that was an HD clutch, I don't want another. Had other issues that caused it to get too hot, back then, so don't know if that'd resolve the minor, IMO, problem now.
I can hear the tune change at near it's hottest point it climbs to on the gauge. I'm guessing the temp-timing tables in the computer significant retard timing. It might be what keeps it from going any warmer.
Come to think of it, I might try turning the base timing back down from 18* to 14 or 10 to see if that makes any difference.
I'm honestly not too concerned at even 245, because in my racing days, we run upwards of 300*... but... we also changed oil, did maintenance between every run, and were running irons not aluminum heads. The fans on my old all-aluminum LS1 in my C5 didn't even kick on til about 230*. So, prove me wrong, but the only problem I see is getting my nerves not having any buffer to catch it before a problem is too late to fix.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
i tried a Dodge Charger fan on one of my cars. Had it on a week and swapped it for a JY Contour fan. It didnt seem to pull the same CFM, and I think the car was rejecting it as it was a Dodge part. lol
rednotch
Founding Member
There's a couple different versions, some have a single or dual pwm fan, older ones are a 2 relay set up. but I never had an issue with the dual fan ones as long as the blades where not lose or damaged. Buddies using one on his 6.0 turbo
box and has no cooling issues beating on it pretty much any time he drives it, not the typical bull horn /hater pipe box so all the hot side piping makes it nice and toasty. I've never had cooling problems with these cars though, even with a stock clutch fan. Unless there was an issue somewhere else. Either way my first choice is used oem vs aftermarket for electric fans.
You can also use an F150 fan clutch. I have read it will make a ton of noise as it will pull a lot of air which also means it will rob hp.
ton of noise as it will pull a lot of air which also means it will rob hp.
Might be what happened to me. It was noisy... and worrisome. I've seen the plastic fans crack to the point I was surprised they hadn't already torn apart and taken everything around them along for the ride.You can also use an F150 fan clutch. I have read it will make a
Somehow your fan or your shroud is not doing its job is all I can think of...........
I decided to test thing out. At 87* outside ambient temps, with the car at idle and A/C on max-high, the car went to this line:
My IR Thermometer said ~220*. I didn't believe it so I bought another from the parts store. By the time I got back, it was only 84* outside, and I couldn't get the car over the middle-white line, anymore. So, I guess it'll have to wait for a hotter day.
I don't know which one's right, I assume its the one in the 20s, but I can attest that the a/c will freeze you out.
My first IR gauge:
Brand new one from store:
My IR Thermometer said ~220*. I didn't believe it so I bought another from the parts store. By the time I got back, it was only 84* outside, and I couldn't get the car over the middle-white line, anymore. So, I guess it'll have to wait for a hotter day.
I don't know which one's right, I assume its the one in the 20s, but I can attest that the a/c will freeze you out.
My first IR gauge:
Brand new one from store:
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Side note?:
I can't believe anybody pays the stock temp gauge any attention, mine would show different readings if I changed the sending unit. I compared the temp readings with a mechanical temp gauge and just a 10* temp change would move the stock needle a long way, I would panic the first couple times I drive the car and the needle would move up to the O on gauge.
I mounted a electric gauge down on the bottom of the dash so I could peek at it if things got suspect.
The stock gauge I consider a 'best guess'.
I can't believe anybody pays the stock temp gauge any attention, mine would show different readings if I changed the sending unit. I compared the temp readings with a mechanical temp gauge and just a 10* temp change would move the stock needle a long way, I would panic the first couple times I drive the car and the needle would move up to the O on gauge.
I mounted a electric gauge down on the bottom of the dash so I could peek at it if things got suspect.
The stock gauge I consider a 'best guess'.
rednotch
Founding Member
Its generally an idiot light without the light in most fox bodies.. Though I still hooked mine back up even though it has a real gauge in the car.
As for the temp probes. No way in hell the a/c getting that cold with 134a upper to mid 30's is about the best you can get out of it, looks like the little thermometer sitting at about 40.
It’s a best guess, but it’s somewhat repeatable. Where it points may not be the most accurate, but if you drive for a year and it points to the M the entire time, and one day pops up to the O, might be a clue you should dig in deeper.
really the weakest link is the sender and the way the connector attaches. A little corrosion and that changes the resistance value and that’s where you get your inaccuracy.
I’m not suggesting everyone ditch their better guages, but there’s no reason it can’t be used as a backup. Everyone knows their car and where it “usually” points
really the weakest link is the sender and the way the connector attaches. A little corrosion and that changes the resistance value and that’s where you get your inaccuracy.
I’m not suggesting everyone ditch their better guages, but there’s no reason it can’t be used as a backup. Everyone knows their car and where it “usually” points
Yeah, but I can, and have, spun that little one around to 'zero' it. I basically set that in the green on a hot day so I can tell if anything is wrong. Wish I had something I could trust. Maybe I could use ice water to set that little one and also see what the IR gauges are really doing.
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