Forced to get a roll cage...which one?

Bigstang1

Founding Member
Aug 28, 2002
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Massachusettes
My dad is making me get a roll cage in my stang because my mom thinks that i will kill myself in it. I did actually agree to this before i was alowed to buy the car so i have no choice. Thhe good part is i think he is going to pay for it. My question is what cage to get. I think i want a 10 point (if im going to do it im gonna go all the way) but im gonna loose my back seat right? In Jegs i saw somthing called seat saver that allows the use of the backseat, does anyone know how this works? Any info on the subject of cages would be great ...thanks guys and i guess this just means i gotta make the car faster so people wont look at me funny in a close to stock stang with a 10 point :shrug:
 
Find a well known local fabricator and talk to him and what he can do and how much. IMO its better to go to one and have it done welded in braced and know that it can be certified and legal instead of a cheap bolt in or a weld in kit and take a chance on who you have install if they know what their doing. Start with a 6point and if needed upgrade later, 10pt is way overkill for you do you relly want to lose speakers and have a holes in your dash.

Do what you want by all means just giving you some options and input bro. :nice:
 
Thanks for the input man, its kool to see somone on here who gives advice and still says to do what u want. goodtimes. I had a fabricator that was gonna bend one for me but our friendship kinda went bad so now my neighbor (professional welder) was gonna weld in a kit for me from jegs and mod it if needed. I was wondering, do the door bars clear the door armrests? thanks
 
You need to have door bars, but you can put them very low so you won't even have trouble geting in and out.And yes I think the door bars clear the arm rest.As far as the back seat goes you bent the rear bars around the seat.Consider taking the seat out as it makes it a real pain to weld the bars in with it because you have to bend it, which also makes it weaker.Also get a nice paint job on the bars as the 8 point kit I got from Jegs is just bare metal and looks very ugly and will rust.If you want a nice looking job cheap that you can do your self I us the black "hammered finish" paint from
Rust-olium, look suprisingly nice.

p.s. if your car has a sunroof it can be a pain to open.
 
To really do the install correctly, a LOT of the interior needs to come out - so it can get expensive; be sure DAD knows. One thing to be careful of - you need to pad the bar anywhere a body part (especially your head) can come within about 12" of it. People put bars in for safety, without realizing in many cases they've just moved a very hard surface MUCH closer to body parts that always lose the battle when they crash into it. Doesn't take much impact to throw your head into the bar - and your head will break long before the bar will. Be sure the installed clearances allow enough room for the appropriate roll bar padding. And it's not just a driver issue - if you want to carry a passenger, same stuff applies.

Saw a guy tonight pole vaulting in the Olympics for the USA. He was wearing a safety helmet - only one I've ever seen. Turns out his parents would allow him to take up pole vaulting only if he wore a helmet - so he did. And now he's so used to it, he doesn't want to take it off. Your brother maybe? :) Your parents are just trying to keep you safe -- and unknowingly, they'll give you what every fox body really needs; a reasonably stiff unibody. It'll make the car handle better, so you can go faster, so you'll need the cage -- vicious cycle. Just do what I did - start with the safest car in the world, and drop a 5.0L in it. No roll cage needed - the car's the roll cage.
 
If you know someone that can weld. Wildrides racecars has a prefabricated kits. The tubes and bent and notched already. Just hold and weld. To keep the back seat the bars go through the rear deck through the speaker holes. I believe. I would go with at least the 8pt so it's nhra legal. 10pt is way over kill. Just remember to tell your dad that you need a engine combo to go along with the roll bar. Good luck
 
deion82 said:
If you know someone that can weld. Wildrides racecars has a prefabricated kits. The tubes and bent and notched already. Just hold and weld. To keep the back seat the bars go through the rear deck through the speaker holes. I believe. I would go with at least the 8pt so it's nhra legal. 10pt is way over kill. Just remember to tell your dad that you need a engine combo to go along with the roll bar. Good luck

Don't do it!!! go to a local shop and get it done right you wont regret it!
I have seen too many garage cages fail to certify, if it dosen't certify it won't save your life!
 
Zmann Like I said if you know how to WELD you can do it yourself. Because it doesn't certify means it won't save your life. 90% of the weld could certify but 10% doesn't that weld is still gonna hold. I've built two supergas chassis's in my garage and they both passed nhra standards and they have yet to check every weld on the chassis all the way around every weld it must be for a reason. Most of the chassis's that don't certify is because the tubing is to thin or not the right diameter not the weld. Besides he'll be in the 13's at the fastest with current combo. He doesn't even need a roll bar. What do I know i'm only a welder for a ethanol plant.
 
Michael Yount said:
Saw a guy tonight pole vaulting in the Olympics for the USA. He was wearing a safety helmet - only one I've ever seen. Turns out his parents would allow him to take up pole vaulting only if he wore a helmet - so he did. And now he's so used to it, he doesn't want to take it off. Your brother maybe? :)

Good Stuff!

But seriously, what all do you plan on doing to your car? 12 second car? 10's? A 10 pt sounds a little too much for me and I always had a think about people putting extreme cages in a 14 second grocery getter. At the most I would put a 4 or 6 point. You can always add on to it later down the line if you get too fast.