Forced to get a roll cage...which one?

Bigstang1 · Aug 25, 2004

My dad is making me get a roll cage in my stang because my mom thinks that i will kill myself in it. I did actually agree to this before i was alowed to buy the car so i have no choice. Thhe good part is i think he is going to pay for it. My question is what cage to get. I think i want a 10 point (if im going to do it im gonna go all the way) but im gonna loose my back seat right? In Jegs i saw somthing called seat saver that allows the use of the backseat, does anyone know how this works? Any info on the subject of cages would be great ...thanks guys and i guess this just means i gotta make the car faster so people wont look at me funny in a close to stock stang with a 10 point

FrdMustangCpe · Aug 25, 2004

that sounds a little extreme (on your parents part) right now a stock 5.0 w/ a stock AOD shouldnt give you many problems.

Bigstang1 · Aug 25, 2004

Well my t5 swap is almost done its on stands right now, but still i know what u mean but its kinda cool to get a free cage. If i gotta get it i might as well get a good one lol...now anyone else?

00 Red SS · Aug 25, 2004

Find a well known local fabricator and talk to him and what he can do and how much. IMO its better to go to one and have it done welded in braced and know that it can be certified and legal instead of a cheap bolt in or a weld in kit and take a chance on who you have install if they know what their doing. Start with a 6point and if needed upgrade later, 10pt is way overkill for you do you relly want to lose speakers and have a holes in your dash.

Do what you want by all means just giving you some options and input bro.

Bigstang1 · Aug 25, 2004

Thanks for the input man, its kool to see somone on here who gives advice and still says to do what u want. goodtimes. I had a fabricator that was gonna bend one for me but our friendship kinda went bad so now my neighbor (professional welder) was gonna weld in a kit for me from jegs and mod it if needed. I was wondering, do the door bars clear the door armrests? thanks

cevtv · Aug 25, 2004

Since you are in Massachusetts, go here: Tube Chassis Designz

bluevenom867 · Aug 25, 2004

You need to have door bars, but you can put them very low so you won't even have trouble geting in and out.And yes I think the door bars clear the arm rest.As far as the back seat goes you bent the rear bars around the seat.Consider taking the seat out as it makes it a real pain to weld the bars in with it because you have to bend it, which also makes it weaker.Also get a nice paint job on the bars as the 8 point kit I got from Jegs is just bare metal and looks very ugly and will rust.If you want a nice looking job cheap that you can do your self I us the black "hammered finish" paint from
Rust-olium, look suprisingly nice.

p.s. if your car has a sunroof it can be a pain to open.

Michael Yount · Aug 25, 2004

To really do the install correctly, a LOT of the interior needs to come out - so it can get expensive; be sure DAD knows. One thing to be careful of - you need to pad the bar anywhere a body part (especially your head) can come within about 12" of it. People put bars in for safety, without realizing in many cases they've just moved a very hard surface MUCH closer to body parts that always lose the battle when they crash into it. Doesn't take much impact to throw your head into the bar - and your head will break long before the bar will. Be sure the installed clearances allow enough room for the appropriate roll bar padding. And it's not just a driver issue - if you want to carry a passenger, same stuff applies.

Saw a guy tonight pole vaulting in the Olympics for the USA. He was wearing a safety helmet - only one I've ever seen. Turns out his parents would allow him to take up pole vaulting only if he wore a helmet - so he did. And now he's so used to it, he doesn't want to take it off. Your brother maybe? Your parents are just trying to keep you safe -- and unknowingly, they'll give you what every fox body really needs; a reasonably stiff unibody. It'll make the car handle better, so you can go faster, so you'll need the cage -- vicious cycle. Just do what I did - start with the safest car in the world, and drop a 5.0L in it. No roll cage needed - the car's the roll cage.

10HoleLX · Aug 25, 2004

I say skip the roll cage and have them get you something else that will make the Mustang safer, such as bigger brakes and better handling suspension.
Wider wheel and tires etc.

deion82 · Aug 26, 2004

If you know someone that can weld. Wildrides racecars has a prefabricated kits. The tubes and bent and notched already. Just hold and weld. To keep the back seat the bars go through the rear deck through the speaker holes. I believe. I would go with at least the 8pt so it's nhra legal. 10pt is way over kill. Just remember to tell your dad that you need a engine combo to go along with the roll bar. Good luck

FrdMustangCpe · Aug 26, 2004

you can wear a helmet everytime you drive , i agree w/10hole brakes and tires, nothin like a set of kuhmos and a four disc setup from Baer

dastang2 · Aug 26, 2004

more weight slow times oh well if you ever break into the 10's then you will be glad you got it when you did

bln92cpe · Aug 26, 2004

go 10 pt ...all business cage, thats what I plan on..

Zmann · Aug 26, 2004

deion82 said:
If you know someone that can weld. Wildrides racecars has a prefabricated kits. The tubes and bent and notched already. Just hold and weld. To keep the back seat the bars go through the rear deck through the speaker holes. I believe. I would go with at least the 8pt so it's nhra legal. 10pt is way over kill. Just remember to tell your dad that you need a engine combo to go along with the roll bar. Good luck

Don't do it!!! go to a local shop and get it done right you wont regret it!
I have seen too many garage cages fail to certify, if it dosen't certify it won't save your life!

deion82 · Aug 26, 2004

Zmann Like I said if you know how to WELD you can do it yourself. Because it doesn't certify means it won't save your life. 90% of the weld could certify but 10% doesn't that weld is still gonna hold. I've built two supergas chassis's in my garage and they both passed nhra standards and they have yet to check every weld on the chassis all the way around every weld it must be for a reason. Most of the chassis's that don't certify is because the tubing is to thin or not the right diameter not the weld. Besides he'll be in the 13's at the fastest with current combo. He doesn't even need a roll bar. What do I know i'm only a welder for a ethanol plant.

Legendary · Aug 26, 2004

Michael Yount said:
Saw a guy tonight pole vaulting in the Olympics for the USA. He was wearing a safety helmet - only one I've ever seen. Turns out his parents would allow him to take up pole vaulting only if he wore a helmet - so he did. And now he's so used to it, he doesn't want to take it off. Your brother maybe?

Good Stuff!

But seriously, what all do you plan on doing to your car? 12 second car? 10's? A 10 pt sounds a little too much for me and I always had a think about people putting extreme cages in a 14 second grocery getter. At the most I would put a 4 or 6 point. You can always add on to it later down the line if you get too fast.

stockhatch · Aug 26, 2004

Just get a 6-point unless you are going to turn it into a full blown race car. A 6-point will allow you to run 9s legally and not have holes in your dash etc... Here is a VERY good thread about roll cages...

Click me

AC

koss1000 · Aug 26, 2004

What are the options for a 91 vert for a roll bar or cage of some kind? Yes I can weld.

NosPony · Aug 26, 2004

hey did u ever think of the pain of getting in and out of your car my coupe is a pain in the azz to get in and out of with the 8 pt cage in it

Matts89LX5.0 · Aug 26, 2004

make sure you get subframe connectors too so that the welder can mount the cage to it.

Forced to get a roll cage...which one?

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