Ford Racing Clutch Quadrant Replacement

[Realmongo]

I managed to get the old 2-piece plastic quadrant off. The big one was not bad, but that little one...OUCH! The Ford racing part goes right on but here are my questions:

1. It is a lot thinner than the plastic one was. Do I need to do something about all the slop that I now have as the new one slides in and out quite a bit after I installed it with the old clips???

2, Also, do I still need the springs for anything???

 

[fastfutura]

Just changed my quadrant

I used the steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster. I used the stock non-adjustable cable. The kit came with a spacer and nylon washer to use on the rear mounting shaft. The shaft closest to the firewall has no spacer or anything, just the safety clip. It rattled around a bit but after I adjusted the cable it tightened and is firm. The motorsport quadrant is probably basically the same thing but I don't know for sure. I threw away the springs, the instructions said they were unecessary. Maybe someone else who has installed a motorsport quadrant can tell you if you need a spacer on your setup or not. If you adjust your cable and can hear the quadrant moving around then you probably need a spacer on it. Hope this helps.

 

[Realmongo]

Strange as it may seem, the Ford Racing instructions for the quadrant and cable makes no mention whatsoever about installing the quadrant. It just tells you to remove the old one and save the parts. Pretty cheesy if you ask me.

 

[stangbear427]

You don't need the springs. You can space the quadrant out on the shaft with washers, and it will improve the pedal feel as well as taking out the slop.

 

[jrichker]

Plan on taking the driver's front seat out and laying a piece of plywood over the exposed seat mount studs. I have been told that it is much easier if you peel the carpet back from under the clutch pedal.

The clutch quadrant kit I used (FMS) was somewhat of a pain to install. This was because I had a real bear of a time getting the old quadrant out due to lack of clearance between the shaft that supports the quadrant and a bracket that was welded under the dash.

When you put the new quadrant in, the quadrant support shaft and the pin in the end of the clutch pedal MUST be absolutely parallel. Mine wasn’t and I ended up drilling the clutch pivot pin hole in the new quadrant slightly oversize to get it to fit.

The FMS cable has a steel ring with an ear with a hole in it on the firewall end of the cable. I pushed the ring flush with the firewall and drilled a hole through the ear and put a sheet metal screw in it to hold the cable in place – makes the whole thing easier to assemble & adjust.

The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Have fun and keep lots of Band-Aids handy – you may need them.

 

[stangbear427]

The seat advice is relative to the size of the worker. I've changed quadrants literally dozens of times on several stangs with no trouble ever, I'm 6', 32w and 160lbs, and I've never taken the seat out. For me, it would just be another time consuming step in a process that already takes longer than I'd like it to, another chance of beating up the interior, etc... and there wouldn't be any benefit. Now, if you are quite a bit bigger than I am, it may be worth considering- but I don't think it's necessary to say removing the seat is always step one in this job.

 

[Realmongo]

I suppose in the long run that might be the best way to do it...Once I figure out where the cable is centered first though.

You don't need the springs. You can space the quadrant out on the shaft with washers, and it will improve the pedal feel as well as taking out the slop.

 

[stangbear427]

You can see how to space it out by looking at the old quadrant. Basically, it should be shimmed out almost all the way, with room for one washer between the quadrant and the pin that holds it on.

 

[jrichker]

The seat advice is relative to the size of the worker. I've changed quadrants literally dozens of times on several stangs with no trouble ever, I'm 6', 32w and 160lbs, and I've never taken the seat out. For me, it would just be another time consuming step in a process that already takes longer than I'd like it to, another chance of beating up the interior, etc... and there wouldn't be any benefit. Now, if you are quite a bit bigger than I am, it may be worth considering- but I don't think it's necessary to say removing the seat is always step one in this job.

I'm 5'7", 180 pounds and probably a lot less flexible than you are. I need all the room I can get...

 

[stangbear427]

Point taken. Hope you don't think I was being aggressive, I always defer to your knowledge.

 

[jrichker]

Point taken. Hope you don't think I was being aggressive, I always defer to your knowledge.

Ahh, the joys of being young and slim... But that was a long time ago for me...

 

[fastfutura]

Ford instructions suck

Remove old parts, install new parts, and save old parts...great instructions.

The instruction sheet for the B springs I just got say to find a proper manual to remove and install springs. It is clearly marked "installation instructions" but says to go someplace else!

I am not knocking the product but how hard is it to print up some good instruction and installation notes to go with it?

 

[stangbear427]

Since Ford Motorsport always has and probably always will be cheap re-boxers rather that innovators, pretty hard. You'd think they could take someone else's instructions too though...