Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.I'm a huge fan of Coyote swap. The comparible cost completely over looks the value of your time though. A Coyote swap takes real time, where a crate motor is a drop in with a far lower time investment. Some people make cost suggestions without the understanding of how much free time different people have. Congrats on choosing a crate engine; I have lost many hours of my life coordinating with machine shops, and getting parts where they need to go. There is a lot to be said for swiping your card, and the complete engine shows up truck freight days later. I also have grown to like the Ford parts too. There are better heads out there, but nothing seems to fit and work as well as the parts that Ford makes.
I would consider swapping those valve covers for the Trick Flow valve covers. Unfortunately, Ford is still too focused on old hot rods with carbs, and doesn't offer a low profile valve cover. The Trick Flow ones are designed to work with a fuel injected engine, and will be without a doubt the best step towards getting more clearance for your stock hood. It was the best investment in clearance I ever made. You can also put a real filler neck on it.
I would also look at the BBK headers over the Kooks. I doubt there will be much performance difference between the 1 7/8" over the 1 3/4", and the BBKs fit so much better, and less than half the cost.
Kurt
I've actually owned that exact valve cover believe it or not. I had them on my last foxbody 20+ years ago. I've actually gotten stock valve covers to fit with stud mount rockers. You have to cut the baffles out to make them work. It's a quick process with a Dremel with a cut off wheel. I was trying to use my factory Foxbody valvecovers on my SN. I did all that work to find out that the Foxbody valve covers won't clear the alternator on an SN. It won't be a problem with a foxbody accessory system though. Go for it!! Factory valve covers will give you a ton of clearance, with a proper fill neck.Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
I have long tubes, unknown brand, that came with my car when I first bought it. It has a Trick Flow Power Pacakage, but the car was run hard at the track and honestly I've been overdriving it and now it has a nice tick. This is after I blew both head gaskets and front timing cover seal about three months apart. Ugh. I called Ford Racing a few weeks ago and asked specific questions on this crate engine, but the technician wasn't very helpful. I think I'm close to knowing all the parts to complete it, but I hadn't thought about the intake clearing the valve covers.I'm a huge fan of Coyote swap. The comparible cost completely over looks the value of your time though. A Coyote swap takes real time, where a crate motor is a drop in with a far lower time investment. Some people make cost suggestions without the understanding of how much free time different people have. Congrats on choosing a crate engine; I have lost many hours of my life coordinating with machine shops, and getting parts where they need to go. There is a lot to be said for swiping your card, and the complete engine shows up truck freight days later. I also have grown to like the Ford parts too. There are better heads out there, but nothing seems to fit and work as well as the parts that Ford makes.
I would consider swapping those valve covers for the Trick Flow valve covers. Unfortunately, Ford is still too focused on old hot rods with carbs, and doesn't offer a low profile valve cover. The Trick Flow ones are designed to work with a fuel injected engine, and will be without a doubt the best step towards getting more clearance for your stock hood. It was the best investment in clearance I ever made. You can also put a real filler neck on it.
I would also look at the BBK headers over the Kooks. I doubt there will be much performance difference between the 1 7/8" over the 1 3/4", and the BBKs fit so much better, and less than half the cost.
Kurt
Although more complicated and time consuming it’s really a no-brainer anymore. 1000+HP on a stock bottom end? Yes please. I plan on keeping this car until I die or wreck it, so I’m keeping the long view. In that long view, the coyote will cover any plans that will develop over the next 30 years.I suspect you're about right. I just did a quick search myself.
The advantage of a Coyote Gen 3 over the Z2363 is what a higher revving motor and a little more room to grow into mod/hp wise? I'm thinking 450-460 RWH is good for the streets on normal street tires and anything above that will need drag radials or more drag focused suspension. I want to keep the car N/A and am leaning toward the Z2363 engine for uniqueness. I'll be backing it up with a T-56.
Thank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
I completely understand the draw of the modular engine as a sort of resto mod swap for the Fox Body platform.I tried to get my stock VC's to work with my Crane Gold 1.6's but it wouldn't work. Ended up running these exact valve covers and the intake clears them fine with a 3/8" spacer, which fits under the stock hood.
Not to influence your decision at all, but my next engine in my car will be Coyote/Terminator. I'm just really loving some of the swap i'm seeing and the uniqueness of it.
Call American racing headersWho makes good 1 7/8" long tubes? The only place I can find that looks well built is Kooks and I'll have to do the research to see if they fit the Z2363's heads.
Kooks Headers | Kooks Headers & Exhaust
Purchase your high-performance headers, performance headers, and exhaust headers from Kooks today.kooksheaders.com
Accufab 90mm with the intake I suggested for sure I have one on mine it’s the best you can get for thisThank you for that explanation. That was a lot of good information. I was under the belief that those tall valve covers were necessary due to the head and roller rockers. I'm not a fan of them and honesty would be fine with the stock ones although I suspect the fitment is completely different. Otherwise I'd go with something like in the attached photo. If I did go with the Trick Flow Series R intake wouldn't that clear the valve covers? Lots to research even for a "drop in" crate engine.
I'm settled on the Z2363 engine and Series R intake with a 90mm accufab. Still have to work through the correct long tubes and some other things, but I'll get them figured out. So you're saying those valve covers will work without any modification as long as I utilize a 3/8" spacer between the lower and upper intake? I assume the spacer comes with the longer bolts?Accufab 90mm with the intake I suggested for sure I have one on mine it’s the best you can get for this
The valve covers ? Those look familiar , they work great
That is correct . Spacer comes with everything . I’ve ran 3/8 and had no issue. I have. 1 inch nowI'm settled on the Z2363 engine and Series R intake with a 90mm accufab. Still have to work through the correct long tubes and some other things, but I'll get them figured out. So you're saying those valve covers will work without any modification as long as I utilize a 3/8" spacer between the lower and upper intake? I assume the spacer comes with the longer bolts?
I'll probably run an Anderson Power Pipe. Is an EGR plate necessary with the Series R?That is correct . Spacer comes with everything . I’ve ran 3/8 and had no issue. I have. 1 inch now
You can get the the thin spacer with the throttle bracket mount from eBay or Accufab with the tbI'll probably run an Anderson Power Pipe. Is an EGR plate necessary with the Series R?
I'm going to need to start piecing together the parts soon. Already bought a '04 Terminator MAF meter.
You can get the the thin spacer with the throttle bracket mount from eBay or Accufab with the tb
Here’s the adjustable cable bracket I run
Just put a 93 starter in it from parts store . I have a car quest starter In my carCan someone please confirm that the high torque starter that is the correct application for a build like this is the Denso 280-5103? I'm not sure if the Late Model Restoration SVE is a remanufactured Denso or not. Bonus points if it has that 1993 starter sound.
That will work as well .
Ok. I wasn't aware that that was needed.
Is an EGR spacer, such as the one shown here, needed. I'm not running an EGR or EGR blank now and I'm not sure if one is needed to marry the Series R and 90mm throttle body.
Yes, I got the stock valve covers to work with both my Canfield Heads, and a set of Windsor Jr. heads I had. It's not enough to remove the baffles, you have to cut the studs the rivets go into. If that won't clear, then get the Trick Flow valve covers. They are cheap, and will give you lots of clearance on the intake.Are you saying that short valve cover will work on this 363 crate engine as long as the interior baffle is cut out?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?