Found some great stuf for rust...

[1973mach1]

I found some stuff called De-Oxy its pretty expensive but works really well. I spent the past few days trying to sand down the control arms and clean them up, I got tired of it so remembered a bottle of De-OXY I got last year, you add a 50/50 mix with water and it can be reused several times they claim, I put the control arms in yesterday night and they almost look new right now, it must eat the rust right off. I cant wait to try it out on the battery tray and some of the other parts but im going to give the control arms another day. I'll get some before and after pics. E-Bay is the only place I found it, they claim its not sold in stores, its for Autobody shops im wondering if anyone knows any place to get it cheaper?

Jim

 

[Ronstang]

Muriatic acid (HCL) is available at Home Depot, Lowes, and just about anyplace that sells pool supplies. It is ~$3 a gallon and is the best rust remover there is if QUICK is your need. I keep a 5 gallon bucket of this stuff (must have a sealing lid) around at all times to get rust off of parts. I use either mechanics wire or string to tether the part and simply dunk it in. Most parts are completely bare clean metal in minutes while completely scaly and crusted parts may take an hour or so. You need to flush with lots of water and prime/paint/or oil quickly since the metal is SO clean it will start to oxidize almost immediately in the humidity is high. It removes rust really well in crevices so it is my cleaner of choice for old rusted calipers etc. It is very corrosive and very dangerous so use due care in handling this stuff......GOOD VENTILATION is a must. The best part is your part is etched and thus the paint bonds to it better....I have to really work to get paint off of parts I have acid dipped and painted.

 

[Ares67Coupe]

Both of those work quite nicely. However if you have a friend with a bead blaster, look into purchasing new beads, there are many varieties so look around for what best suits your needs, and you can blast them. I personally prefer glass beads, it is what I work with ALL the time rebuilding carbs.

-Chris
Professional Carb Rebuilder

 

[Ronstang]

Glass beads are great for carbs.....but for iron/steel I prefer the acid as it can get into the crevices and holes that a blaster can miss plus it is cheap and not labor intensive. I have access to a blaster but still use the acid for most jobs. Cleaning blast media from pieces and then using a degreaser to get the residue off for painting is a pain in my opinion and the acid dipped parts come out ready to paint after simply blowing them dry. The only downside to acid is that it does not take off paint....it does loosen it sometimes though.

 

[Ares67Coupe]

I go back and forth on what I use, I just prefer to use the blaster. I love the finish that comes out with fresh beads. I dont' mind cleaning out the blaster materials either, I do it everyday, get used to it after while. I tend to use acid on super nasty stuff that gets all the gunk out of the crevices than going to work on it with a blaster.

 

[Ronstang]

The only reason I usually recommend the acid is that for the home enthusiast it cost $20 or less for 5 gallons and a new bucket with a sealed lid and it stores out in the back yard by the trash cans for safety reasons. It takes up almost no space and allows you to get other things done while it is doing it's job....what other shop tool can do that? HAHAHA....I will get a blaster some day when I build my big garage but for now I have to stick with the acid due to space limitations. If you have access to a blaster try both methods and you will find that each has it's pluses and you will do somethings one way and other things the other way. For pieces that are not getting painted I prefer the blaster.....by far.